What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Took a heat gun to the series 100 snorkel to mold it to the A pillar

 

Looks like those trucker jugs that get tossed out the window lmao

 

“Trucker jugs” is about the nicest way I’ve ever heard someone say. “Random roadside old piss bottle”, ever in my life.

 

Lmao gotta keep it classy!

My friend works for the county and says that there is no worse smell in the world than when the bushhogs bust one open on the side of the highway on a hot summer day.

 

Fkn way of the road bubs

https://youtu.be/Xb0bwbcfd28?si=bZxH-7S4C-Fbciag

 

Exactly why I didn't want to use the Truck Stop showers in Flagstaff....

 

I can’t stand how little trash pickup is done before roadsides are mowed in Texas. Freakin embarrassment. At least run a crew of prisoners through there before you mow. “Mattress? Igloo cooler? Couch cushion? Nothing my shredder can’t handle!”

 

SC they mulch the plastic with mowers

 

Fixed the right rear door check. Gonna go ahead and order two more Dorman parts to do my front doors.

Took the Dorman door check and tore it apart. I then took the OEM check apart and removed the leg from both. Went to pop the OEM leg into the Dorman part and it was not being cooperative. Ended up going to the truck, putting the Dorman part inside the door, aligned the OEM leg between the door and the door frame and slowly closed the door while the leg bolt bracket was against the door frame and it popped right into place. Took the entire unit back out and put the OEM plate back on to keep the leg from pulling completely out. Done and done. I didn't get a chance to update my passenger light with the dual reverse bulbs. Started raining on me.

 

"Don't mess with Texas. The gov't employees will take care of that."

Pay people shit wages, they'll do shit work. Education and anything institutional is a great example. Someday it'll click for folks.

 

what grille guard is this and where do I buy one?

 

Chinese brand
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1732#post-3356782

 

Anyone ever heard of or used poppy’s patina? It looks like it’s a wipe on clear coat and pretty easy. Cheap too at about $120 or so.

YouTube videos look like it gets good results and lasts years. I may try to revive my paint with it

 

If you have peeling clearcoat, I highly doubt it's going to help. You really need to remove all oxidation from the base color, and knock down the cliff where the clearcoat ends before re-sealing and it's typically a losing battle, where you'll bubble again at that cliff.

Bummer too, I love the color of green your truck is.

 

The clear coat hasn’t failed anywhere besides the tops of the fenders and the tops of the doors. All the main surfaces are still intact it’s just starting to fade a bit. I’m going to buy a buffer and some compound and see how it comes up.

 

Alright so back to this once again. Think I'm finally gonna pull the trigger on a bolt on one of these. Thinking I'm going to go with one from Granatelli Motorsports LINK
Going with this kit as it seems like a decent company if I have any issues with it, and while it does seem a bit like overpriced Chinese parts I do like that it's one touch operation so you can't overwork the motor, the basic kits will keep sending power to the motor as long as you hold the button which can wear out the motor quicker. It's also easy to replace the motor and butterfly assembly if it ever quits because it bolts right on to the end of the cutout as a separate unit.

I'm hoping that it will replace the clamp together section that happens right after the resonator before it goes to the muffler, looks like lengthwise it'll be really close, hoping there is enough play there to make it happen.
This kit comes with a small physical switch instead of a remote, I've gotta figure out a good place to mount the switch, or pay an extra $34 for a wireless remote. I'd get a oval switch like many use by the foglight switch but it has to be a 2-way momentary and I haven't had any luck finding one. I've just got to find a good noninvasive switch location and I'll go ahead and order.

 

These are normally installed before the resonator/mufflers and in pairs on dual exhaust. They are for drag race cars and aren’t legal for street in many places. Not sure what you are hoping to gain on a Tundra other than a lot of noise and minimal increase in power if any. If you do this mod get a Dino pull before and after.

 

Buffing the vehicle only helps on panels with existing clear coat. Buffing sands down the outermost layer of clear coat to give it the shine. There is a certain thickness to clearcoat that can allow it to be sanded down and polished to bring it back to a crisp shine and reflection. Buffing panels that already are missing clear coat will only shine the basecoat momentarily but can cause more clearcoat to be peeled off and can possibly burn through the remaining basecoat.

Waxing it will protect it longer but I don't suggest buffing on panels where the clear is already gone.

 

Finished up the passenger side dual reverse bulb install. I managed to break the bottom guide pin on the tail light when I removed the lamp assembly. Dammit. Gorilla glue to the rescue. The other day when I did the door check, I managed to break the small hook on the back of the cup that goes around the door handle also. Gorilla glue got it back together for me.

 

This sounds cool! I searched the forum and couldn't find more about this. Any other details?

 

Here you go.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1741#post-3368148

I used these pigtails. The wire colors matched the wire colors in my 05.

TOMALL 7443 T20 Bulb Socket Female Adapter for Brake Light (Pack of 2)

$9 TOMALL 7443 T20 Bulb Socket Female Adapter for Brake Light (Pack of 2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WVJ4J3

As in the linked post, I recommend getting the 921 reverse and the 7443 switchbacks from the same manufacturer to better color match their output.

The bulb openings for the brake and turn signal bulbs in my taillights are a rounded triangular shape so it took a little bit of finagling to get the bulb socket to fit into the openings but the rubber gasket is nice and tight for a tight seal against moisture getting in. My taillight assemblies have small cracks in the lenses so I may need to replace them down the road. No moisture issues in them though.

 

Yeah that's about it.
When I bought the truck the whole back half of the exhaust was missing, I didn't mind the sound but on longer drives it just got annoying, I figure this is the best of both worlds. I'm sure I'll hate it one day.

I also found out I have a leak in the area pictured below so I figure I don't have too much to loose by making a few cuts. (This is not due to the basic clamp I used here it is actually cracked in the area circled.)

Got my junk depo light out today, full of water.

Going to return in the next couple days, hoping for better on the next one but don't have high hopes.

 

FWIW, my cutout came with the fob remote (which has worked flawlessly for 2 years and still w/ the original battery). With my kit, you tap the button once, and the operation is fully programmed, meaning it stops on it's own. There's no way to continue running the motor beyond it's function, so no worry of burning it up from that. That also means you cannot stop it anywhere thru it's cycle, so it will only rest at fully opened or fully closed. The fob has an open button and close button separately. Just an FYI. Other kits may operate differently, but that's how mine works.
On the other hand, if installing a momentary switch, you would have full control to stop it in the middle of the cycle or hold the button pressed and fry the motor, assuming it would be wired directly to the motor. If that is your plan, just remember you'll want a 3 position on-off-on momentary switch, and one of the 'on's wired reversed.
I forgot about this but.... I never did snap those pics you asked for, did I?

 

Yeah it seems like a lot of them didn't have that operation where they would either be open or closed. The one I got is a momentary switch but it is still "one touch" operation. If I end up hating dealing with the switch I'll order up the wireless kit instead but I like the idea of a physical switch I just wish I had a better way to integrate it.

It seems yours was a weld in type, I just got a clamp in one. I feel like I have a lot of options with this one as I can remove it or repair/replace the motor if need-be pretty easily.

 

Anyone know if greasing the tailgate latches will allow them to grab firmly when closed?

I have a lot of play in mine and you can hear the tailgate banging on its catch moving back and forth about 1/4-1/2” when going over bumps. I didn’t know if only a new latch would fix that.

 

Is your truck missing its rubber bumpstops for the tailgate? Did the earlier models have those? I feel like they're threaded rubber inserts you can screw in/out to adjust tension on the tailgate.

 

And stealing this pic from the tailgate lube/overhaul thread - the rubber bumpers in blue, here, I think (upper left/right corner). Ignore the red/yellow text:

 

I don’t recall any. I’ll take another look.

Edit: yep, bumpstops still intact.

 

Are they fixed, or do they screw outward? I took the SUV in to save gas today, won't be back at my truck for a couple hours, after I grab the esposa al aeropuerto.

 

They’re fixed in place. No adjustment whatsoever.

Maybe I’m not the only one? You can hear it going over bumps with the rear sliding window open, but not otherwise.