Replacing LBJ's front shocks/coil overs

I replaced rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's. Had planned to let shop install front Bilsteins/OME and OEM LBJ's (edit: use blue loctite on LBJ bolts), however, after watching a few video's I'm thinking I will do that myself and just let the shop do the front end alignment.

Is there anything else that I might expect to run into? I've read elsewhere in the forums that the list below should also be considered:

1. outer and inner tie-rods
2. sway bar bushings
3. sway bar end link bushings
4. steering rack bushings
5. possibly upper ball joints
6. lower control arm bushings (or possibly OEM lower control arms that includes bushings)
7. and that cam bolts may be frozen so they may need to be sawed off and using (NO: SPC eccentrics kit due to plastic sleeves) metal sleeves only. EDIT: start applying PB now for future replacement
8. possibly steering rack bushings

Can these extras wait until the next project, i.e. any serious benefit to doing them at the same time as the LBJ's and front shocks/coils? This is assuming there is not obvious issues with them at this time.

 

Before I reply to this with my thoughts, and maybe answers to these will help others reply:

• Have you done basic push/pull checks to verify tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings seem good?
• Have you done a visual inspection of tie rods, ball joints, sway bar end links and their bushings?
• Have you done any leveraged prying on the LCA to determine how much play the LCA has at the bushing, or checked to see if you can visually see the state of the LCA bushing?
• Jacked up both front wheels at same time to pull the wheels in/out and check for steering rack bushing play?
• Start now with Kroil/PB/similar fluids at the cam bolts, even if you don't loosen up anything?

Those are the things I'd be doing before I was asking this question.

When you get there, pop upper swaybar link nut off with truck on the ground. LBJ should be easy enough, you'll need a kit to pull the end. Replace the shock while the LBJ is out, you'll have an easier time. If lifting more than an inch, expect to need to pry down on the LCA some, extra hands may help, make sure the truck is properly chocked and securely on stands. Some use red Loctite on fresh LBJ bolts; I'm fine with blue and torquing to spec with a known-good torque wrench.

 

I watched the video at the link you posted in another thread about doing the basic push/pull test. I am going to do that tonight. I can also jack up both front wheels to check for steering rack bushing play and will also start now with the fluids at the cam bolts.

I will also do the visual checks. I have not done any leveraged prying on the LCA.

Is it safe to say that if all that checks out ok that the list, outside of LBJ's, can wait?

And I guess your response is why I originally was going to let the shop do the LBJ's and front shocks/coils (to inspect for other issues), but if those tests cover the important checks/tests, then I will be comfortable enough doing it myself.

 

My opinion?

Swaybar links are easy as hell to replace. 10 mins per side? Don't make it a priority. Yes, you'll want to disconnect the top swaybar link any time you need to pull your strut, generally makes things easier, but it's not mandatory.

If the LBJs are getting replaced, and you have the coilovers on-hand, I'd absolutely manage it now.

If you're not showing signs of failure elsewhere, I would just knock out the LBJs, throw in fresh LBJ bolts torqued to the bolt spec (not the FSM spec unless exact hardware is replaced), throw in the 5100, and be done.

Let's be real, there's another side benefit to K.I.S.S. method here: The more stuff you replace, if you hear clunks and thunks after, there's less suspects to worry about. That's the only downside to rushing in and replacing a ton of stuff at once.

There's no reason you need a shop for this. I mean, if you were doing LBJ, I'd tell you maybe to have a shop do it because goddammit were mine a PITA to try and pull w/o removing the knuckle totally. But I'm comfortable/confident with that level of teardown, I've been faaaaar deeper into other projects.

EDIT: But yeah generally, take this bit-size. Just get the LBJ, its bolts, and new strut done. Then continue to monitor for other stuff. Even *I* have play in my rack bushings, and I'm definitely low-mile. I barely notice. Nowhere near as bad as a truck with a worn rag joint, I only notice the lag when at speed, there's a mild over-correct.

 

#7:



Metal sleeves only. Spc uses plastic.

Blue only IMO. Red is for permanent install.

 

I'm with you on that one, as are a few others on here.

Hit up YouTube though, and you'd think we were crazy. Even Josh @ 1st Gen Offroad was using red on his, lots of other how-to/DIY advice videos for 1st gens showing red used. I personally hate breaking out the torch to melt bolts set with red.

 

I used red last time, came out easy with the impact. Wasn't sure so I used orange this time - we'll see if I have to take it apart again.

When I got mine, I did LBJ, end links, tie-rod ends, and poly rack / sway bar bushings. Everything was loose and sooooo many noises from the front end.

I'm thinking if I do uppers, I may get a spare set of spindles and do bearings/hubs - possibly replace the control arms too. Don't even know how long my cam bolts have been frozen. Just seems like a lot of work, so may be a ways in the future.

 

I did the basic push pull tests. no noticeable play, either way

can you point me to the link of that video again? I thought I saved it and it’s also not showing up in my history and I can’t find that forum post again

and I sure would feel more comfortable if I could put a jackstand on both sides of the wheel. Currently I’ve only got it on the frame behind the front tire

 

Then I wouldn't be going out of my way to replace all the other stuff. I'd personally focus on LBJ, LBJ bolts, 5100s and call it a day.

And on the push/pull test, for the BJs specifically - and this isn't something that gets mentioned a lot, so tossing it out - I prefer a modified version of this guy's method:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-how-often-to-replace.131688/#post-3351706

I say "modified" because I typically use my floor jack on the frame to lift the wheel up, then get my OEM bottle jack under the LCA until it engages/lifts. I feel like this is the most accurate way to check. It's also how I do a lot of my suspension work on vehicles because I'm normally working solo. I've never loved the idea of jacking up directly on, like, LCAs for example, especially with a bottle jack. I'm sure it can technically take it, but ....

Anyway, bottom line and back to the point, if you're not seeing play, not hearing pops or other suspension-likely concerns while driving, save that fight for another day.

Just my 2¢ of course. Others have nickels and dimes they can contribute, I'm sure.

 

Speaking of jacked up. This doesn’t look right

 

Aftermarket swaybar links. And in shit condition. Someway way overtightened.

Hell, the factory ones I just pulled off my truck would do better than what I'm seeing there...

Maybe if you get a shot of the cap, we can make out what brand they are?

 

If you want to see what OEM look like, 7th or 8th pic on this page: https://www.tundras.com/threads/icon-aal-oem-upper-control-arms-leafs-swaybar-links-etc.131444/

Notice how the top washer is larger than the bushing. I can't honestly believe that's the correct top (or bottom) washer for that thing.

 

Me either

but now I have bigger problems. It appears the castle nut and and/or bolt on the tie rod end is stripped

update:
I got it off, but I don’t trust it. I got lucky and the semi local Toyota dealership had the drivers outer tie rod for someone else, but they released it and let me get it I’d already watched the video on replacing the inner and outer so I should be good to go now

 

a few videos I watched on replacing the ball joints did not mention Loctite. Should I put that on just the studs for the ball joint and tie rod end or also on the four bolts for the ball joint?

 

I just put it on the 4 LBJ bolts. I wouldn't use anywhere on the TRE, or anything with a castle nut in general (that's what torquing down and using cotters are for).

 

I cannot find the thread that had all of the torque settings. I know what they said in the videos, but I hate to trust that without verifying

 

Torque specs are in the FSM, which there's a link to download from the 'so you just bought' thread. I recommend downloading a copy.

There's a thread, but torque can vary between years so be careful: https://www.tundras.com/threads/torque-specs.53443/

For the entire front end on '05-'06: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1671#post-3281673

 

Maybe I’ve misread something but you said it would be easier to do the shocks when the LBJ was out but now I can’t use the upper control arm to relieve the pressure on the shock

 

If the LBJ is out and you disconnected the swaybar link with truck on ground as adviced, as soon as you pop out the bolt for the lower strut mount, there shouldn't be anything else holding the LCA, you should be able to push it down freely. Or am I forgetting something?

 

no I did not see the part about taking off the sway link or probably would’ve gone ahead and gotten a good part to replace it

 

It was likely in another thread then, maybe? I thought I posted in one of your threads to you specifically.

Any time you're working on these trucks, pop off the top nut of the swaybar link BEFORE you jack up the truck. If you don't, it's going to limit movement.

 

no you posted it here. I just overlooked that one line. I’ve watched all the videos that made everything look so easy with just slight pressure

 

Ok, not crazy, it's in the text you quoted. Last paragraph, 1st sentence.

I get it though, I type friggin' books. I can't help it, I type really fast and have ADD.

 

And yeah... I'd be shocked if the swaybar link was intact with them doing that.

A lot of people will disco the TRE and swaybar link. But knowing you'd have the LBJ off anyway, as long as it and the swaybar link are off, the only last thing joining the truck to the LCA is the strut...

 

well lesson learned yet again. I’m gonna stick to what I’m more knowledgeable about.

but now I’ve gotta work through this, somehow

 

Am I left with getting a coil Spring compressor?

jack up the lower control arm and then remove the sway bar connector?

 

This is exactly how you get more knowledgeable. You didn't make the wrong decision, if you were intent on learning new things. Nobody is looking down on here. We only want to help you push your boundaries.

Shouldn't be necessary.

See?! You totally get it. This sounds like a great solution. Jack it up just enough it doesn't have tension on it. Whip off the top nut. Bring the jack down. You should get at least an extra inch or two of drop with it not attached.

Is the bolt out on the front shock already? If not, that may be the next thing that limits downward travel. If so, again, utilize the OEM bottle jack or a floor jack under the LCA to help with getting the LCA up/down into positions that are convenient for easily tapping out the lower shock bolt. Work smarter, not harder. Be happy you're not 42WD here ... you've got no CV boots to worry about ripping. Note the position of the lower shock bolt - nut facing forward. Reinstall the same way.

It should NOT take force to tap that bolt out. If it does, again, jack the LCA up/down as needed to relieve pressure holding the bolt in place.

I always prefer to remove the lower shock/strut bolt first. Then pop out the top 3 nuts 90% of the way. Then hold the strut while popping top nuts rest of the way off..

 

Thanks Shifty. And you are correct. If I was to go back and do the rear shocks/lift now, it would be so much easier.

I only broke loose the top nuts on the shock. Then took the bottom nut off and was trying to get that bolt out when I realized the lower control arm could not come down far enough, and there seem to be too much pressure on that bolt to tap it out.

But it sounds like taking off the top nut on the swaybar connector solves all of that. then just play with the height of the control arm to remove the old and install the new coil/shock

 

This is the picture of the swaybar connector.



531–285 appears to be a Dorman part number?

 

It's safe to push the lower control arm down beyond where it naturally droops to, and that is often needed to get the shock/strut free, and even moreso when installing the new shock/strut. So go push the LCA downward with one arm (or a leg) while you finagle the bolt out with the other, or tap it out lightly out with a hammer while pushing (don't want to munge the threads trying to hammer it out w/significant blows of force).

In my case, my stuff pretty much dropped out with minimal push, but no suspension experience in my life has ever been 1:1 even with the same make/model vehicle so may not be true with you. However, installing the new coilovers that were giving xtra 2.5" lift, I had to basically loosely bolt the top of the coilover into the bucket up top, then shove the LCA downward about 5" with my leg to get the friggin bolt in. If you watch Josh in the video below starting around 17m00s (it may autostart there), you'll see - sometimes prybars are necessary, it is what it is. I don't recommend following this guy to the letter, he does a few things I wouldn't, like prying at shock inserts with a flathead, but ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=S2unFVNRry8#t=17m00​