General Supercharger Thread

huzzah!

 

I believe it. For the 3GTacoma with their TVS1900 for instance, the default pulley is a 90mm and they do not endorse running the 87mm with their tune.

 

So pick your poison I guess. Get the Magnuson with a nice 3 year warranty that covers the blower but is easily voided if you change the tune, up the boost, or change fueling etc. or the shorter Harrop 1 year warranty that covers just the supercharger for a year without restrictions.

 

man, I gotta say the word "warranty" was not even in the same zip code when I was contemplating blowers.

it should not be a concern of others as well.

The tune is the hedge against grenades.

 

Agreed! It was not my consideration for sure. It is good to know that if by some rare chance something like a bearing seizes up though in the first 5k mikes that you’re not just SOL.

 

Not Tundra specific but may give ideas on designing a blower riser and/or post rotor meth injection @snivilous :
https://youtu.be/qTfgZzfxJvQ?si=hvP8CGTf86YeFKLv

Not a personal request but I know the topic came up before.

 

Great YouTube channel

 

Yea, had to modify things a bit to get my AFR gauge to fit as well.

 

Sweet, let us know so I can order a belt ahead of time if needed.

 

I actually saw a guy the other day that was running one of those super cheap gm 3800 superchargers (they go for <$300 all day on ebay) and he had made this absolutely insane remote mount setup almost like a centrifugal to boost his little engine. Gave me some inspiration for going crazy on something haha

 

I ownder how well these units hold up over time

 

It has arrived…. Not sure if I’ll get to it tonight or not. I also ordered a new set of bolts from Harrop after I ordered the pulley as a just in case.

 

Sweet. Mine gets here tomorrow

 

Mine came today

 

Pray with me as I go from phase 2:


To phase 3:

 

Mine is also here. Let the party begin.
Griptec coating is pretty neat too.

 

Got the 77.5 on. Earlier today at 75 degrees I noticed mostly 7-8psi. This evening granted it’s 10 degrees cooler at 65 but I saw mostly 8-9psi. I’m sure a longer pull/cooler weather would result in 10. So an extra 1 psi as expected. Have to keep an eye on things over the next few days, supposed to tow my camper next week so it was probably stupid of me to swap it before that trip. Probably fine though.

Also, don’t be a dumbass like me and double check the belt didn’t skip a few ribs on the lower pulleys on the engine before starting it back up lol. About shat myself when I started it and heard a noise similar to a worn coupler, luckily nothing but some surface scuffing on the one side of the belt. Between that and changing my coilovers/shocks last weekend I’ve decided I’m really not an auto mechanic.

 

Shout out to @snivilous for taking the time getting the truck dialed today. Excited to see how it does.

 

Holdener with another golden nugget of knowledge: Compressor Maps:
https://youtu.be/8uz5Aenqr60?si=oW1_7SU31jXP0iyK

 

I'd be very interested in your findings, mine should be done Monday and will be towing 2 weeks later

 

So the stock Harrop belt was all good? Good to hear.

 

I don’t see any issues so far anyway, it seems to have gotten plenty tight. I’ll have to see if there is any belt slip issues or anything as I drive it more but have not noticed anything in my brief test drive. It’s such a minimal size difference.

 

...I'll be sitting outside waiting on the UPS truck like a toddler waiting on Santa.

 

Can someone summarize how to change the pulley

what are the known shortcuts?

and what do I stand a chance of breaking?

is there an easy way to make slack on the belt? Can I reach the tensioner?


Reminder- reply as if you are talking to a toddler or labor retriever

 

Unbolt the bolts then undo the belt on the tensioner. Slide belt off, finish unbolting the pulley. Bolt new pulley on hand tight then belt back on and tq the bolts to spec

 

you are a scholar and a gentleman

 

Has anyone here removed the top plate from the TVS1900? Mine is making an...uncomfortable sound, and I have an urge to pull the plate to "have a gander". I imagine that there's probably a seal or o-ring for the plate and at least one each for the inlet/outlet of the intercooler. I know those intercooler lines will need to be drained. I don't know if anything other than the rotors would be viewable (after intercooler removal), but I wanted to try to see if the front rotor bearings would at least be viewable at that point. That's where the sound seems to be coming from. I'm sure it's not the coupler, the sound isn't a clacking/knocking. After the blower warms a little (no sound after a cold start) it's more of a "scree/whine" sound, and using a rubber hose the sound can be narrowed down to the area behind the coupler. I've searched about for a visual diagram or a video, but no luck. I've pulled the belt and it still rotates without issue, no notchy feel or increased resistance. I'm reluctant to remove the blower and start disassembling it for fear of finding that it's not worth reassembling nor reinstalling due to an obvious issue, I wouldn't be able to leave the vehicle in the work bay until it's resolved, so why bother reinstalling it. So I'm merely looking for a way to try to gather a bit more information so as to more precisely determine the sounds origin and how much I might still be able to nurse it along until I can get it resolved. I'm just trying to not waste too much time on fruitless work.

 

It’s almost always the coupler on those. The sound resonates through the blower.

 

That's what I've understood as well, but to me this just sounds different. What d'ya think?

https://youtube.com/shorts/L31a8gq8aag?si=-xD75cikX8x_Ojr9