What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I got things rearranged and cleaned up to help, but still gotta do something about all these damn wheels! I would cut someone a killer goddamn deal right about now!

Nah, it’s more for science and more data to put into the steering wheel controls thread.

Still haven’t managed to get anything into the attic, but it’s likely to happen this weekend.

 

Our house had a single carport, that I turned into a garage. I missed out on a sweet deal for a sea container in the backyard. I don’t have an attack or a basement, it’s chaos!!!
Hahaha I’ve got two sets of wheels at my moms house for a rainy day!

 

I still have that extra set of Patrick star wheels in the bed of the truck that no one has stolen yet
Btw, @shifty` , what do they look like and what’s a killer deal? I am passing through ATL on my way to and from CLT at the end of next month.

 

I started it on the 1,800 mile WI > ID trip hauling Dad's worn out tractor and other things (towing 5,100 lbs and hauling about 400 - 500 lbs in the bed). 1/3 of the way and all is good. At 70-75 mph the coolant is running at 194*F and the Trans oil is running at 150*F (this seems to be awesome). The gas mileage is horrible though, about 10 mpg.

 

If your headed that way……

 

I have the buttons in my lexus custom programmed on my Sony radio. Just go into the settings and set steering wheel controls custom then program one at a time. Not sure if that's an option on your radio but worth a look.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rac...tal-6-lug-17x9-12-offset-atlanta-area.130803/

No BS, they would probably look damn amazing on your truck, throw a smoked vibe. I want to say I’m in ~$225-230/wheel with 5 wheels, if they went to a 1st gen’er, I could be content walking away at $150/ea for all 5.

I swore one of the Texas boys was interested in my OEM 5 spoke splits (@Djenerate @Mr.bee was it either of you?) that I’d dump cheaper than my listing also. https://www.tundras.com/threads/atlanta-area-low-mile-oem-5-spoke-splits-tpms-tires.130505/

I mean, if you’re headed that way anyway… and I can get tires pulled if it makes hauling easier.

 

Wasn't me

 

@BroHon you lookin' for some 17" split spokes?

 

She even caught me on camera…

 

If you indeed stuck with Kenwood, I would suggest not removing anything until you have at least tried following the below

$63 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1 programming instructions a few times to verify proper LED feedback.
While my Kenwood install went well, programming the ASWC-1 took a little bit since you have to watch the "Programming LED" as you follow the instructions as it flashes feedback telling you have the wires hooked up right and that the proper radio was identified. In case you do not have the ASWC-1 install and programming instructions, I have attached them below to help with mapping or re-mapping the buttons.

Before removing anything, I would suggest going thru a reset procedure if you haven't already....





Initial setup example.....

 

I agree. We’ve had a slow start to this month. Let me see what the rest of the month does.

 

It was possibly me, but our timelines didn’t cross; I had to replace my dry-rotted 20 year-old BFGs this summer and couldn't find anyone with those beautiful 17s and couldn’t wait, so I just went with OEM wheel-size tires. But I did find another mint Patrick starfish wheel for my spare to get that five-tire rotation going, so there’s that.

 

Does anyone know if these 3 fasteners are also used to adjust the latch? Our RAV4 hatch won't stop rattling. All 3 were loose but so far nothing has helped the noise.

I can't be positive it's the hatch making noise but I'm not sure what else it would be.

The more I look at it, I don't see how they could adjust anything. It's odd that they were so loose.

Just realized I posted this in the wrong thread.

 

On mine, they only tighten. They do not adjust

 

The springs inside the mechanism could be a bit worn causing the suspended parts of the latch mechanism to rattle. Other rattle
Points could be the window frame mechanism if it’s coming from within the door. There’s a 10mm bolt head that tightens the lower track mount that’s easily accessible and tightened for giggles. If the door card has been off a few times, the various bolts and brackets underneath can get loose as well, but less likely.

 

On a Rav? The rear window is fixed and doesn't move. The door card has never been removed.

I probably need to have my wife drive while I ride back there and try to identify where it's making noise.

 

My moms seemed to rattle the tire carrier plastic or possibly thing spoiler is moving around

 

No joke, this is how dealership technicians help diagnose rattles

 

Nope, my bad. On the FGT. Wasn’t sure which way the comparison was going.

 

I've reset the SWC-1 and disconnected the right hand side buttons. Still no go. My right hand lowest button which is labeled assistant was working as the volume down of course no longer works since disconnecting. The interface is blinking the correct light for a Kenwood stereo. Assasin sent me some left buttons which should be here next week so I'll try those and go from there. The problem may just be as Shifty mentioned, the shitty Chinesium buttons.

In reading about all of this I have seen several people mention a wiring problem with their SWC-1 3.5MM plug having to swap two wires. I wired mine using the 3.5mm female plug by wiring the brown wire to my stereos blue/yellow steering remote input wire. I may need to use the brown/white wire instead. That could make a difference. I've got other shit I need to work on today so that stuff will have to wait.

 

Last week I drove the Tundra 1,800 miles from ID to WI and the exhaust note was exceptionally gnarley so I figured I'd refresh the band-aid at that I installed 2 1/2 years ago.

2021's broken pipe and repair. It wouldn't be a band-aid if a soup can wasn't involved!





It turned out I was only going to get 2 1/2 years out of that band-aid because the muffler disintegrated when I attempted to loosen the clamp.

Oh well, off to Napa to buy a mufflerr assembly and clamp $180 w/tax after 20% off. 12 hours later the replacement fit perfectly and I installed it in about an hour.



As much as I love the sound of an unmuffled Tundra, I HATE the drone on these 10 hour travel days.

 

The fact it's working and reading suggests you don't have a wiring fault (i.e. reversed a wire). I may be wrong on this, but I'm fairly certain one single wire is responsible for signaling, and each button sends a different resistance. For some reason, it things the signal put out by the assistant button is volume, which is interesting, isn't assistant right-hand bottom and volume is left-hand top buttons? It's like ... it's mirrored. Which also makes me think this is just a f-up or incompatibility. It's entirely possible also, that different models used different control boards, but that would make zero sense from a mass-production point of view. Crappy China knockoff/generic parts seems more likely.

If it worked for member 912, and you repeated his, the only difference I can see is ... I believe he used OEM connectors.

I didn't experience the problems you mention with my

$63 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1, it was very simple, plug-and-play using the Metra harness, and wired up as instructions advised.

 

Yeah. It's very weird. My clockspring bottom plug only had 3 wires originally so I added the other 4 as 912 showed on his post. My wire colors are different of course but I made sure to connect the wires in the spots listed to the wires on the SWC-1.

My truck only had 2 plugs in the dash going to the stock radio. My metra wiring harness took care of those two no problem and have been working flawlessly along with my amp for years. The Metra 8114 was not used as I don't have the plug in my dash that it would attach to. Basically my 3 swc control wires go directly from the clockspring connector to the wires of the SWC-1.

I'll pop the buttons that Assassin sent me when those arrive and see how it goes.

I've ran into several used buttons on eBay that mention Tundra compatibility but on a few I noticed they are too missing the cruise control plug or they have it but with 3 wires. My cruise control plug only uses 2 wires and the cruise control seems to be working just fine so I pinned the wire correctly into the Chinesium buttons clockspring connector.

It's weird.

 

One more question. What's the middle wire for on the cruise control stalk? My cc connector only has a white and black wire but the middle spot is empty. The cc switch itself has a pin in that middle spot too though. Is the cc switch backlit as well? Would be nice if it is and that's what the middle pin is for.

 

Also what happens if I connect the battery back while the airbag is off and sitting on my passenger seat? NIS the truck going to freak out and throw a code or light I am not able to clear or get rid of?

I want to try that out when messing with the controls so I don't have to keep plugging and unplugging the airbag. I'm afraid I'm going to set it off at some point. Lol.

Yes I have been disconnecting the battery and waiting at least 15 minutes each time B4 removing the airbag but it's getting old.

 

I think at one point I left the airbag connected but set it on top of the wheel/column while changing switches out.

 

Well shit! Today is just not my day. Mower was cutting like shit, took it back to the barn to change out the worn deck belt and when I removed it, the left side hanger bracket is kaput. It corroded and broke off the deck. Was holding on barely and when I pulled the deck out from under the mower, it broke off.

 

New tires wildpeak at3w’s. Change the whole look and feel of the truck love them.

Any one here do body work? I want to fix this scratch and dent and looking for opinions on the cheapest and easiest way to tackle it.

 

I would guess the rear hatch has the two rubber nubs that screw in out to stop rattles like the hood has. If not then Toyota would keep it quiet between the hatch latch & the gasket around the opening. Is the RAV old enough that the rubber gasket is beginning to collapse? Assuming the gasket runs in one big 'circle' around the opening - try pulling the whole thing off & put it back on clocked 1/4 turn. That may hush things temporarily which would confirm it's time to replace the gasket.