What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'm sure you know better than I, but I'd be wanting to lightly blow over the top of that with a heat gun to make the bubbles disappear. Wouldn't be the first time I got impatient and fukt things up either.

 

I feel taking a heat gun to it would cause the paint to dry too quick and trap the bubbles in the paint

 

It's black magic fuckery, the heat expands the air in the bubble and causes it to pop. Most paints will self-level once the bubble pops.

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I say we invade @Mr.bee's neighborhood

 

after the lunch he made yesterday...

 

Yup, I got that email too.

 

We managed to sell Toyota fresh out of CV axles bro.

I'm tempted to leave the order open.

 

I haven't heard anything from my local dealer yet. Hopefully it is just back-ordered and they continue production. They already charged my card, so I'm going to leave my order open and hopefully find a cheap core by the time it comes, if they do come back in stock.

 

I remember that show and Nick News

 

Meanwhile, I guess this is the WHYDTY1GT thread and I just did something Tundra-focused building up to other somethings ...

Purely out of vanity while working on some other upcoming stuff, I swapped out the button caps on my steering wheel controls. This is 100% possible to do with the steering wheel is installed on the truck, airbag intact, with limited/no risk I could foresee. That said, anyone with non-matching control colors, you can buy cheap Chinesium parts on scAmazon in the right color and swap the buttons (or even the OEM circuit board inside) over if you want matching controls ....

Since the LED backlighting on other models (T4R, I'm looking at you) is amber vs. green, I didn't want to swap controls. I have a T4R leather wheel on-hand with controls with fairly pristine buttons. Turns out there's nothing fancy about the buttons at all, just a little locking nub that acts as both a lock and a pivot point for the steering controls. If you get up under that, mid-control, from the inside or outside, you can pop up the cap safely.

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Props to @assassin10000 for helping me realize there's no springs underlying - I was concerned if I popped the cap off, there'd be a spring between the center of the button and the control contact point on the PCB. In hindsight, that would be a really horrible, fallible design for automotive use. Instead, Toyota opted for these little white-capped spring-loaded bits to push into the PCB you can see nestled down inside the control housing in this pic:

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And with that ... so long old, glossy buttons from years of rabid music listening, track-skipping, eternal-volume-upping. Hello, new factory-fresh(er) looking buttons. I must have a lot of acid at my fingertips, I tend to wear the matte finish on keyboards and mice shiny like this too.

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I'm hoping to get off my ass this weekend and swap in the T4R leather-wrapped wheel too. And add right-hand controls. Now I know (it seems) Siennas also have right-hand controls, and they're backlit green like our 1GTs, I think I'm ready to go with all of my steering related stuff.

 

I mean, if it helps... you could make some of the good stuff, enjoy the smells of it all, freeze it, then overnight it to me. I'd be willing to heat it & eat it - for science. We can see where the weight gain/loss goes - with the cooking or with the consumption.
For the heck of it, I'll eat it in a 1st gen truck so I'm able to post back in this thread correctly.
For science. :-D

 

The paint is tacky to the touch so I put the hood defector back on and drove her home. Here’s the instagram angle. You can gauge the shity roof for comparison of before and after. Once the paint cures, I’ll take a finishing compound to it. I realize that I will have to remove the hood deflector again, but I have 3M tape by the truckload available to me at work.

 

Shouldn't you give that at least 6-8 days cure time minimum before you start cutting? Enamels typically don't start firming up fully until 2-3 days out IME.

I'd give it 1-2 weeks, then wetsand at 800 grit, then 1200 grit, then cut it hard.

 

Making power!
now I just need to replace the battery and we should be back in business

 

Yes. That’s the plan. I’m not doing that anytime soon. Our weekends are full for the next bit.

 

I received my SWC1 interface today. I still have some spare wires that came with my Chinesium wheel controls. I'll try and throw the 4 missing wires into my clockspring connector. Found a really easy to follow guide on another member's post https://www.tundras.com/threads/200...pic-heavy-little-ot.75017/page-4#post-2226710. Pin 7 is the power wire for the backlighting of the switches. Hope to have this done this weekend.

 

It’ll look a little like hammered ass either way, but the roller puts more paint down. Spray cans can leave thin areas. They do make better nozzles for a the spray cans that lay more paint in a better pattern. Once the roller lays a couple nice thick coats, the cut and buff begins. It can look great regardless, it’s all in the finish work. Then some 2k clear to seal it in.

 

I spray 20+ gallons a year of Alkyd enamels

4:1:1
Paint (rusto):reducer (acetone):Catalyst Hardner

spray out of a hvlp with a 1.8 or 2.0 tip

 

No. Rattle cans on a piece as big as a hood would look like shit

 

This was my 65 done completely with a roll on method of rustoleum. I didn’t do any finish work to the paint, but it did the job really well

 

I sure do miss that old girl. Here’s a before and after. I literally dug her from her grave and made her run and drive… and did burnouts!

 

It's funny b/c the windshield is cracked in both pics

 

TWSS

 

Bro, you have no idea. The second pic is windshield number 2. Cracked it 2 days after install. At that time, safelite had 2 available in the country. I paid $160 for the first one. Then supply and demand happened and the second one was $280