Power door locks not all working after latch replacement

I just recently replaced my drivers door latch on my 2006SR5 double cab, 4.7 v8

Now I cannot unlock all 4 doors with my key from the driver side door. I can only unlock driver door It still works fine from passenger side

also the Power door lock and unlock won’t work on the drivers door until you turn the ignition on. You can then take the key out and it will work fine until you close and lock the drivers door

there are a few other quirky things with the power locks that started when I replaced the latch

any help greatly appreciated,

 

What brand part did you replace the latch assembly with?

 

This.

I hate caning the “OEM” topic, but … just think about the guy on here recently who bought a latch of scAmazon, and it permanently closed his door to the point he had to pay a body shop $700 to unlock and replace the latch with a used OEM part.

I can tell OP this: too much tension on a latch will cause automatic locks and manual locks to fail engage/disengage. There is some dial-in involved, especially if you use non-OEM replacement parts OR you get the wrong part, like the latch you bought is for a double cab but you have an access cab truck (only an example I’m pulling out of my ass, since not all cabs share the same parts)

 

What was your original setting before replacing, meaning was the setting set to unlock all doors with 1 click or 1 for drvr door and 2 clicks for ALL doors.

As others alluded to, was this from junk yard and if so, what yr/type tundra or was it new bought online ?

 

Was a good question. This was the first of several repairs I did on my own mostly bought OEM parts recently but when I looked back this one was not OEM and the reviews on the product were not good. So if you guys feel this is the issue, I will gladly pay the extra money for the OEM part

not quite sure what you mean by the tension I mean I understand the concept. But that doesn’t seem to be an issue but it sounds like you’re saying it can be very sensitive to slight differences in tension

I did make sure this was for my particular model, which is an SR5 double cab, and a double checked after these posts

on a sidenote, I was astounded how a different models of this truck had different parts for what should be generic. I mean why would a door latch be different? Why would the tailgate be different unless it was truly a different size and why would the latches for it potentially be different. Why would headlight and tail light assemblies be different? But I had already found out over the years that they most certainly are often unique

 

It was not from a junkyard. Since I feel like this truck has many years and miles ahead of it despite its age, I don’t want to get a part from a 17-year-old truck that may already be near the end of its lifecycle
About the only time I would consider a part from a junkyard would be a Body part

as to the original setting, I did not realize that was programmable. I’ve been surprised it, but things that do have to be programmed, and that it has a lot more intelligence built-in than I would’ve ever thought Any doubts? Just ask someone like me that has had to program a new key fob

but to answer your question, mine came set up where one key turn unlock the drivers door, and one more would unlock the other three doors

 

And thank you guys for the quick replies. This seems to be a fantastic forum with a wealth of information and knowledgeable posters.

One more note. I have an aftermarket key fob that I’m waiting to program. Since part of the programming involves using the power door locks, I didn’t want to tackle that until I had them working correctly.

the key fob is one place where I didn’t mind not getting OEM because of the price. I purchased one before and once it was programmed properly it worked fine. It just didn’t last as long as the original equipment. Looking back, perhaps I should’ve just gone with the OEM for it as well

 

For the most I agree with your position but we have all kinds come thru here and considering how well most of our Tundras parts are made, junk yards are not frowned upon here….different strokes for different folks.

As for original setting being programmable, a number of our settings can be programmed either by dealer, proper scan tool or Techstream if one wishes to go down that road. You can program 1 click or 2 clicks with the key….page 21 in your Owners Manual.



If you don’t have a pdf copy of your Owners Manual, one can be had at below link.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...wners-manual-and-maintenance-schedules.91566/

 

I'd try to find the latch at a junkyard, you may have some luck using www.car-part.com to find a vehicle near you with the part. Find a truck with the same options as yours: Same cab type, same power lock setup (vs. manual locks), same door (if double cab) and roughly the same year.

To be clear, I'm speaking generally, across multiple vehicles. I've found in the past that locking/unlocking (especially with power lock actuators) can be highly dependent on several things:

• Position of the exterior door handle; some door handles have minor 1-5mm variances in where you can tighten down the handle
• Position of the door strike and the door latch; both of these items often have 1-4 screws and can be shifted on X/Y/Z axis to ensure they strike and engage each other smoothly, without collisions
• Position of the interior door handle; sometimes they're on plates that have minor ability to adjust

Especially the middle of those above, I saw several times working for an audio/alarm/tint shop, where saggy door hinges caused the door latch to leave the weight of the entire door on the door strike. This was especially bad with 88-98 GM pickups. If the latch sat too hard on the strike, sometimes the power lock wouldn't engage/disengage. The solution was typically to loosen the 3 or 4 bolts on the latch and lift it up, or loosen the center bolt on the strike and drop it down, to get everything centered again.

The crappy thing about aftermarket parts is, they won't have the same respect for small tolerances that OEM will have. And you don't know the supply chain, nor whether anything is out of alignment. Maybe a tab got bent. Maybe the manufacturer didn't bother with OEM tolerances at all, just made a part that looks similar. You really never know with 3rd party stuff, whether it got realistic QA/QC testing or not, that process cost $$$ and a lot of sellers at places like scAmazon don't bother; they're mass-producing trash and can easily handle 10-20% of inventory getting returned.

I mean ... you have a double cab, so you should share the door latch with Sequoia. There are overlaps, but sometimes they don't cross-pollinate models you'd expect.

I've bought gaggles of stuff from JY and been happy.

And I doubt your truck is at the end of its life cycle. As long as you keep up with fluid changes, timing belt changes at least every 10yr/100k miles using quality legit parts, and rust doesn't get the better of your frame, you're golden. But this thread has a bunch of details you may find helpful about extending the life of your truck.

 

great information. Thank you. And a good point about the quality of the parts. I guess in this particular case I felt like the driver side is the most used and worn on any vehicle and I didn’t want to run into the same problem. However, again, your point is well taken, and I might explore the junkyard option

and that’s good to know about the key option. I’m gonna leave mine, the same though. Always felt like that’s a good safety feature - if someone was trying to get into your vehicle so you would not unlock the other Door and give them access.

I guess I am little sensitive to that after I had a group of three guys try to rob me one time while I was trying to get away in my vehicle

 

thank you very much for this very informative reply. And I was very curious what others thought about the mileage. I’ve always maintained the vehicle appropriately, oil changes, transmission, etc c. Never in my wildest dreams that I ever think I would have it for 17 years and 300,000 miles

but I started to take a look at what was starting to fail on it I realize that overall the mechanics were very solid. The body was very solid with no rust, and with the engine in good shape, I felt like it is worth the investment to get it back in tiptop shape

Funny, you mentioned the sagging doors. That was also something where I assumed the door was sagging, because that used to be so common in vehicles. But to my surprise, when I looked, it was not sagging at all, so it was simply the latch, which is a relatively easy fix.

Thanks for the link and I will do some searching for the door latch

 

Update:

thanks guys I’m about 95% there and I appreciate the help

I’m not sure the actuator was plugged in fully, but I went ahead and remove it and the driver’s master control for the locks and windows (?) and cleaned the connectors with compressed air since they appeared to be in good shape. Used a little dielectric grease and reassembled.

now the Power door locks all work correctly. I was even able to program my new key fob I can now lock all four doors with the key.

The only issue remaining is the ability to unlock all four doors with the key from the driver side with a double key turn. Since I now have a functioning key fob again, thanks to information I found on this forum, I can live with this for now, since I have more important issues for my truck to address.

Thanks for the help. If I can’t get it working in the future, I’m definitely going to go the JY route for the door latch. Although upon further inspection, the new off brand latch seems to be decent quality, even if not Toyota level quality.

my next projects / tasks are:

Adding the power lock to my tailgate since I have a cover and now store valuables back there

and then these two, which I will have done at reputable shops:

reupholstering my front seats by an auto upholsterer with all 5* reviews after exploring that for way too many hours and then also on this forum

replacing my shocks (should I get the “coil over” replaced as well?) after reading this form I guess now it’s the time to consider if I want to do any small amount of lift

 

Interesting. I would've never thought not-fully-plugged connector.

Meanwhile, programming info for your keyless entry is in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Search that page for RS3200

Read the entire bullet point, because you have a double cab, and there's a potential "gotcha" involved.

 

thanks I was lucky enough to run across that earlier. That’s why I was able to so easily and successfully program it this time. And that had more information in it than what I had the last time a few years ago so I was able to delete the previous key fobs

I’m still puzzled about not being able to unlock all four doors using the key at the drivers door but I will attack that another day