Timing Chain convince me otherwise.

If it was mine would only replace the failed No. 1 primary tensioner and send it, not much reason to replace anything that’s not broken/failed on a 187k 14 yo truck. But it sounds like you didn’t confirm the source before tear down, so maybe more caution is needed? And you know how much work it is to tear down lol.

 

Thanks, Ruggybuggy!

 

Vizsla...Yes, just the primary. And a new water pump, belt, o-rings, gaskets, etc. Thanks!

 

What is the cost of the other tensioners? No way I am spending that much time taking the front off and not replacing all the parts if reasonably priced.

 

My post about the finalization of mine was right at $3,000 for labor and everything, that was also using all Toyota parts. so I would say labor was anywhere between $700-$1000. so roughly $1000-$1500 for parts. that was: chains, guides, tensioners, seals, oils, and anything else that was needed for that replacement. I dont have the list handy to label everything needed.

 

I just priced the parts for all the o-rings, gaskets, seals, a new water pump, etc. Here is the list.

2007 Tundra Parts 5.7L
1 EACH - FIPG
1 EACH - 13540-0S020 TENSIONER
1 EACH - 11213-0S010 CYLINDER GASKET
1 EACH - 11214-0S010 CYLINDER GASKET
8 EACH - 11193-70010 SPARK PLUG GASKETS
1 EACH - 90311-A0005 TYPE T OIL SEAL
2 EACH - 16341-38030 WATER OUTLET GASKET
1 EACH - 90301-A0032 ORING
1 EACH - 15193-0S010 OIL PUMP GASKET
4 EACH - 11159-0P010 CAMSHAFT GASKET
4 EACH - 11159-0S010 CAMSHAFT GASKET
2 EACH - 96721-24025 ORING
1 EACH - 90301-A0033 ORING
4 EACH - 90430-A0001 GASKET
1 EACH - 1610009491 WATER PUMP

It came to right around $500 in parts. All OEM from the local Toyota Dealer. According to Toyota, the chains and tensioners are life-time parts and not necessary to replace unless they fail, like the primary No. 1 left side (driver's) tensioner did on mine. It was a lot of work to get this far into it, but I don't see the need to replace anything that ain't broke, and the rest of my engine looks pretty good. My suspicion is that from all the forums and YouTube posts that cover this, for some reason, that tensioner is the one that fails. That tensioner of mine, and the inside of the front engine cover on the driver's side is discolored as though it is a hot spot. My engine has never overheated or even run hot. But is seems that when the conditions are just right, the No. 1 tensioner gets starved for oil (usually when cold until the oil thins out and pressure is sufficient and then it works. And for a Toyota to have a part that might fail, considering the, perhaps, millions of 5.7l motors world wide, that's a pretty good engine. My chains and guides and the other tensioners all look great. Once I get the parts tomorrow and get it reassembled and started up, I'll repost with the outcome. For sure I'll be a bit miffed if that wasn't the issue. But I'm pretty confident...(knock on wood).

Here's a pic of the tensioner that is bad. Notice the darker color on the tensioner and the chain guide. The rest of the inside cover and the other guides and tensioners look new.

 

Are you sure it's not a VVTI noise. The Toyota 2.5l has a rattle after you change the oil until the oil gets up to the VVTI.

https://youtu.be/gwJ5BBHb9W4

 

I replaced all four. Everything was close to $400. You should measure the chains, no good reason not to, but I didn’t. Felpro valve cover gasket kit includes vvti gaskets, the figure 8 gaskets, and tube seals... but not flat washer o rings.

Also, I used permatex ultra gray Fipg it is the only one that meets Toyota spec and doesn’t dry in five minutes for the non pro mechanic (permatex optimum does not list the spec but is likely the same).

Also, as you rotate the crankshaft the slack in chain will move around, as I learned.

 

You should be good to go and you should be pretty confident that it shouldn't make a noise. Do you think the noise was VVTI or tensioner?

 

Thanks, Dalandshark and Ruggybuggy. Good info. Picking up parts this morning...more later. If my makes noise after I reassemble it, then we'll know it wasn't the tensioner and possibly the VVT. Though I haven't seen any reference to the VVT being a problem on the 5.7l. Maybe I just didn't search for that?

 

Mine has since to make the rattling and clanging noises since I had mine repaired.

 

I replaced the driver side crank to camshaft timing chain tensioner. I measured the stretch in all my chains and they were well within specs. Toyota says they are lifetime, so no need to replace all four chains and all four tensioners. I replaced the water pump and radiator, timing belts, and did a basic tuneup (spark plugs, oil, filters, etc. Buttoned it all up and it fired right up with no noise. Now, 3 1/2 year later, and now with 240,000 miles, it still runs like new. I've pulled a 25' Airstream from Spokane, WA to the east coast 6 times since then, and this beast just keeps on trucking. Just routine maintenance and oil changes. I get 11-12 miles per gallon on average. I did have the driver side front catalytic converter break up and rattle around. Sounds like a broken ceramic coffee mug inside an old metal coffee can. My Toyota certified mechanic works from home and he cut out and welded in a new aftermarket cat. It runs fine and the check engine light went out. I added the Decked Drawer system and my own aluminum internal canopy bracing, as well as some airbags. Everything I need to go solo camping/fishing.

So, in the end, an $80 tensioner, and misc. other parts and two weeks of labor saved me thousands of dollars vs. having Toyota or another mechanic do the job. I love my Tundra! Since they have been know to go 1 million miles, this should be the last truck I ever need to own.

 

Nice! I need to replace the tensioner in the drivers side. It is quite after an oil change for a while, but goes to clacking after a while. I don’t think it’s doing any damage since it’s just gets drove around town. But it’s a little embarrassing. I plan on doing the same thing you’ve done.

 

Did you teach the dog to climb that ladder?
I love that airstream

 

The hardest part about that was breaking the crank pulley bolt loose. I used the old serpentine belt. I put it on the pulley, then tucked it into itself, then looped the whole thing over to the driver's side wheel well. I put a ratchet strap on it and cinched it to the frame. That held the pulley tight so I could loosen it. It is torqued to about a thousand pounds (not really, 221ft lbs I think), but it is really tight and you don't want the crank to turn, either. Then, to hold the crank from turning while tightening it, I used the same method to hold the pulley.

Also, make sure you label all the sensor plugs. If you accidentally plug in them into the wrong sensor, you'll get timing issue codes.

I suggest replacing the water pump, pulley tensioner, and of course a new belt.

And for peace of mind, measure the distance between 15 pins on the chain at three different locales around the chain and ensure the chain is within limits. I forget, but so many millimeters between the pins is good or bad.

Also, there are like 28 bolts in the chain cover, so I cut out a piece of cardboard box the shape of the cover, and put holes in it to put all the bolts in it like a mirror of the chain cover. It is a template so you know which bolts go where. Different sizes and lengths, so you want to remember where they go.

Let us know when you're going to do it if you have any issues or questions. It is quite involved, not difficult, just a lot to remove and replace, so it does take some time. Be patient, use the right tools, and good luck. In my post, I go into quite a lot of detail.
I checked the timing about a dozen times to ensure it was correct before I buttoned it up. I never removed the chains from the crank or cam shaft sprockets, so I was 99% sure I hadn't messed it up, but since it is so involved, I wanted to be 100% sure.

Here are a couple of good videos about timing chains on Toyotas and common Tundra problems. Sometimes the noise you hear could be the lifters. The second video explains how to properly let the lifters warm up and get oil in them after it's been cold or sitting for a few days and is making noise. The oil bleeds out of the lifters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBUfLh0uYXI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2OAHImTgA8

Good luck!

 

No. I piggy backed him up there. We're working on it though. And yes, the Airstream and my gold Tundra draw stares, thumbs up, praise, and questions wherever we go. The Tundra and Airstream are a great combo with the airbags, Decked Drawers, and the RoofNest tent (the grandkids call it the attic).

 

Nice! I’ve seen camp grounds where you can only stay if you own an airstream.

 

Thanks, I appreciate that

 

No need to measure the timing chain. Toyota has designed the chain so that when the timing paint marks are no longer visible then the chain needs to be replaced.

 

I am in the middle of this job, and could use some help this morning. Part Number (1 EACH - 90301-A0032 ORING)
I cannot find the location of this O-ring. Is says it is part of the oil pump. It is approximately 1 1/4" in diameter.
My toyota parts site shows a breakdown of the front case. But no location for this seal.
It might be from the pickup tube to the back side of the block?

 

Obxtaco, when I was done with mine, I strangely had an O-ring the same size left over and I never found out where it went either. I just buttoned everything back up and never had any oil leaks or any other issues after 30,000 miles or more and counting. That's about as unhelpful as can be. Sorry I can't be of more use. Good luck!

 

I figured out the seal is for the oil pickup tube. it is the seal between the block and the tube. There is another seal that seals the block to the timing case to supply the oil pump. I also had to go back and get the o-ring for the heat exchanger to the timing cover.
I got the cover back on and sealed (Fingers crossed) and will be reassembling the rest today.

 

So today my adventure continues.... I have another oil seal that I cannot find the location for.
it is in the picture with the pencil pointing to it. There is one extra for each side. I have traced out the concept and I see a place for two of the figure-8s, one large and two small on each head. Any idea where the two additional o-rings go?
Note: I have the two for the oil filter...

 

Again, it was a few years and many projects ago. Hard to remember. I took pics of everything I took apart and reassembled it in reverse order. Here's a link to the Toyota Parts website with the schematics for the engine. I had to comb through these to find where all the new ones go to replace the old ones. Sorry I can't be of more help. Kudos to you for tackling this job, though. I only replaced the tensioner on the driver's side. According to Toyota, the chains are lifetime, so I didn't spend $800 on new chains and tensioners. Did you? Even though I never disturbed the chains or their position, I was careful to make sure they were all in the correct position. I have had 0 issues since replacing mine. No oil leaks, either. It's still mind blowing to me that these engines are as complicated as they are DOHC, 32 valves, four chains, yet can go a million miles. If I ever get another vehicle, it will be either a Lexus, Sequoia, Land Cruiser or Tundra with the same 5.7. It is more reliable than any other car I've ever owned. The second best was our Toyota Previa...345k and still running strong when I sold it.
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/ring-o-9030111006

 

Thanks for the response. I am slowly making my way through the task. This was my last hurtle of unknown. I pressed on as I didn't remove any seal to replace. Never saw one. As many guys that have gone through this and complained about the tight fit on the heat exchanger pipe. I would have guessed they would have noted the part number for that seal was not on the list.
I only changed the primary tensioner on the driver's side. I had the one for the passenger side, but I looked at it really close and it was fine.

 

How did you break the crankshaft bolt loose? I used an old serpentine belt and wrapped it around the pulley and tucked it in itself and then hooked the end to a ratchet strap to the driver's side frame. To tighten it, I hooked it the same way but to the passenger side frame...just curious how you did it. Good for you for attempting this yourself. Dealer wanted $7k to do it. Cost me $85 and I added a waterpump and radiator while I was at it.

 

I am absolutely crushed... Things were going back together really well and when filling up with water, it started running down the back of the motor. It appears to be across the top of the valley too. That heat exchanger pipe seal must not have sealed correctly is my best guess. I am going to slowly dig back into it. Can I access the heat exchanger from the top without pulling the entire case apart again?

 

Boy, that's too bad. I really don't know the answer to your question. This may sound dumb, but do you have a factory service manual or similar (Haynes/Chiltons)? I had to refer to mine a few times. And did you take pictures. There's no way I could have done this job without a factory service manual, pictures I took as I removed each and every single piece, and YouTube. It took me a couple of weeks working on it a few hours a day after work. I reassembled in reverse order of pics I took and downloaded to my Mac. Anyone else got any ideas?

Is this the heat exchanger pipe. I took everything off to get to the cover, but couldn't name what the parts were. I did not remove this pipe from the back of the engine. Just moved it out of the way. Not sure if this is what you're referencing.

 

One last one...