Recent owner questions

Would any of this stuff work on my 05 access cab? Everything listed is $750 but he is willing to separate. I don't need any of the radio stuff or lug nuts but if I can save some money and get stuff at a decent price it might be worth it. Just not sure of compatibility between AC and DC. Apologies if I missed a compatability post.

 

Speakers: No, the sail panel won't mount and speakers are probably 2ohm
2887 springs: No, you'll get waaay too much lift on your AC
5100s: Yes, front and rear, just with a diff't spring
KYB insulators: Yes, you'll need for any spring
1" rear lift: Probably, yes
OEM LBJ: Possibly, need part number
JVC head unit: Almost certainly yes
Lug nuts: Maybe? Need more details

 

Oh, and $750 is pretty fair. You'd pay that just for the 5100s, front and rear.

 

Starting the break down process and taking my time with each step. Going to tackle the timing belt and valve covers first since they were the most neglected. First up is a really dirty throttle plate...
Then we have what appears to be the former home of some mud wasps

And finally, is this a leaking thermostat?

 

Mud daubers love Tundras at least here in SC. I would cover that TB and clean the engine first. After that use TB cleaner and a rag to clean the TB. Often they throw codes when they are that dirty. You need to replace the o-ring where the coolant is leaking.

 

I plan on replacing the thermostat and waterpump as part of this service. Would the gasket you are referring to be in that ASIN kit everyone recommends on Summit?

 

And expect it to run like shit after - if I were you I'd remove the negative battery cable for 10 minutes before firing it back up, just to force the ECU to reset.

Meanwhile, that leak, I think there's a gasket for that spot and I think it's posted in the 'so you wanna buy' thread. But I've never had to deal with it. It doesn't look like it's severely leaking; what's down in the valley below looks like oil to me.

 

Timing question: I am watching youtube videos and reading the service manual in anticipation of taking the belt off today. it seems that there are three different ideas on where the cam pulleys should be set when you are turning the crank shaft. One is the timing line, one is the timing "T", the third turning the crank shaft pulley mark to some little pin that sticks out beyond zero and the cam pulleys are off their marks. It sounds like the concern is the cam pulleys jumping and throwing off everything. How do you know which one is correct? For reference my truck is an '05 SR5 Access cab with 4.7 V8.

 

https://youtu.be/Z46cM-Bw1rI

 

I was in the same position as you, with a timing belt job required on my truck but not enough funds to have it done at a shop. I was nervous about it but I did it myself over the course of a weekend, and it went great, even on my rust-belt truck. I followed the youtube videos posted by 1AAuto to a T, and it all went great. I'd highly suggest following them as well.

When I changed my belt, I rotated the engine 15 degrees past TDC so the cams were lined up with the "T". Nether of the cams shifted at all, and the crank didn't move either. I was able to get the new belt on quite easily. As far as I am aware, this works on VVTi and non-VVTi engines.

A few other timing belt changing tips-
- put a piece of cardboard against the A/C condenser to prevent damage to the fins. No matter how hard you try or how good you are, you will hit and bend a few fins.
- replace any hardware that is questionable. many of the bolts involved, such as the ones holding the radiator on, or attaching the plastic TB covers. Many of these are pretty standard size metric bolts and can be replaced with stuff from the hardware store. I also replaced all of the hose clamps on the oil cooler and coolant hoses.

You got this.

 

I appreciate the encouragement! So far following the disassembly videos has been very helpful. I ordered a few random tools that people recommended to make the job a little easier. Nothing worries me aside from messing up my timing lol

 

Wtf is going on in here?!?!?. Please tell me it's not a head gasket leak.


For reference there is a leak above this to the left a bit

 

Likely from the weep hole on the water pump. Unless you actively noticed coolant leaking from the area from this area, you're good to go. It's likely your new water pump will leak a small amount from there when it breaks in.

Clean the old gasket off of the engine block with a razor edge as good as you can when you take the old water pump off.

This is what mine looked like at TB/WP replacement, no active leak.

 

Just saw your edit. That's leaking at an o-ring from behind the thermostat housing you should be replacing anyways with your thermostat.

Think this is what I used. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7588444&cc=1426935&pt=2136&jsn=873

Can leak over time or due to poor installation.

O-ring sits in here. I put a dab of coolant around the o-ring with my finger.

 

Oh thank the gods. I was really worried I would be adding a lot more work onto my list haha thank you!

 

Ok so buttoned everything up and started the truck.... it's alive!!!!

Now here is where I'm stumped a bit. I was following the coolant refill procedures as follows

• Using one of those funnels that clamps onto the radiator I filled the radiator until it was full.
• Started the truck and turned the heat on to high inside
• Let the truck run and watched the radiator burp a bit

As it was running for about 10 minutes I kept checking the heat coming out of the vents. It didn't really get that warm. The level in the funnel stayed the same for a while, then all of a sudden it started filling up and bubbled over. I turned the truck off, let it cool for a few minutes, then turned it on again and ran it. No overflow this time but the heat still isn't that warm. I am using the Toyota 50/50 premix. I have also replaced everything in the cooling system (radiator, hoses, thermostat, waterpump, etc...) and I definitely replaced the thermostat gasket and put it in the right way with the little dingle at the top. Any thoughts here? I shut it all down for the night but I'm worried I possibly missed something? Is that overflow normal behavior when refilling?

 

I leave the radiator cap off and let the engine reach operating temperature then top it off and cap it

 

And squeeze your radiator hoses

 

I've had that on a couple of my vehicles some very lightly overflowed and others a geyser. Unsure of the cause but I've seen it a few times.
Jack the truck way up so that your funnel is the highest point, this may help with your bleed procedure.