Going Long Travel Front and Rear

Those that ran into the issue of the coil hitting the bump mount. Are both of you on fox coilovers?

 

Yes, Fox 2.5 w/ 800lb coil

 

I’m running king 2.5s with 800lb springs from
Camburg

 

Interesting.

 

I just chopped the front bump stop off and kept the other one in the back. Since we are on bump stop discussion. Where do we mount the hydro bump on the camburg kit?

 

From what I can tell, you’d have to chop the rear factory bump stop mount and fab up a bump stop bucket around there. There is a strike pad on the Camburg LCA near the rear.

 

Hydro for the front? Will need to be on the backside or middle just given the lack of space. Correct the other one gets removed also

 

Too late now, but might be enough clearance for the front bump once the limit straps are set? The hydro bump location replaces the rear bump stop, there is a strike plate on the lower control arm for it. Highly recommend the hydro bump, don’t need to run the heavy compression valving in the bypass with the bump, better ride quality/easier to tune. Sorry been busy, will reply to your dm soon as I get a chance.

 

Anyone have an any instructions on building the LT CV axles. I need to rebuild mine because the Threads on the outer cv are missed up and the boots are torn so I’m looking into building a set. I understand the inside has a retention clip that’s easy to get off. But the outside one I have no clue how to do. I know a couple of guys are have the same question. I just don’t know if I wanna spend 2k on rcv axles right now

 

@Vizsla has rebuilt his many times.

 

I know @heckler66 and I were wondering how to do it. my kit came with them pre assembled but I want a spare

 

Instructions for building LT CV axles
https://www.chaosfab.com/PDF/87300.pdf

The outer is not easily removed. Completely remove inner CV from axle shaft, get a steel piece of pipe that the axle can slide down in, needs to be a close fit. Slide axle into pipe, find a hard surface(street, concrete, etc..), and smack the pipe into it till the clip breaks. You’re replacing the outer cups, might be able to cut the cup open with an angle grinder to remove alternatively.

The small boot clamps will go on last when re-assembling, slide a WD 40 straw into the boot, then slide the boot into position with straw to relieve air pressure. Remove straw and clamp.

 

Anyone have any number figures on rear travel with a SUA and some 16 inch stroke bypasses…?

 

16”-19” depending on the bed cage and shackles etc. I see about 18” with no straps.

 

Good to know. I was hoping for about 18. I have a budget of about $10-12k to take my rig to the next level. Don’t really wanna buy brand new so hoping to find something with a decent priced used kit… time will tell

 

I’d sell you my kit if my shop was ready for the truck for the next phase.

 

When will they be ready? Or when do you expect your kit to come off I should say

 

Not sure but wouldn’t be until after February.

 

Mocked up a reservoir mount. Made the tolerance on the snug side so ill have to trim the stickers on the tube. Uses factory M10 screw locations and tucks along the frame rail.

 

Looks sweet!

 

Regarding sag, anyone have any numbers for what kind of front sag they are running on LT setups? I’m running about 5” sag on 16” travel so just over 30%. This is with a single 800lb spring with no tender spring. I have limit straps set to about 1/8” shock shaft travel below full extension.

 

LT front kit you have is a camburg?

 

Yes Camburg. Running 2.5 Fox with no Bypasses yet.

 

Mocked up a ghetto pump guard since I don’t have fender liners anymore. We’ve been getting a ton of rain lately and didn’t want them to be pounded with water no stop. Plan to make a nicer looking one out of aluminum soon but had steel on hand. Also made a pump filter relocation with some cheap parts from Ace and 2 Uni breather filters (~$55).

 

I still haven’t relocated mine. I just keep slamming my tire into it lol. I need to fix that

 

Careful with that pre filter- I did that before and still water logged the intake filter. I’ve got a parts list for the relocation also if needed.

 

Planning on redoing the SAI plumbing like yours but with the cheap hose I used I didn’t want to get close to anything hot. Also curious how you’re dealing with air intake rerouting! I had some prefilter material and figured it was better than nothing at the moment.

 

I’ve got a different airbox with a large cone style filter and plate in wheel well. Currently working a much better airbox system the moves the box up further. Since I’ll be cutting all the wheel well out. More to come on that

 

Here is my attempt at the pump intake relocation. Didn’t consider the large grommet in firewall but it still works as intended. Machined the hose adapter for -AN10 fittings and made a manifold with -AN10 to 5/8” for a clamp on filter.

 

Looks damn good