Recent owner questions

Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forum and have been going through all the pages to soak up all of your valuable information. I have recently taken ownership of 2005 Tundra SR5 Stepside 4.7 V8 that was my mothers since brand new. The truck was down in Florida with her for many years but she got a new truck and the Tundra sat from March till August before I had it shipped up to NJ. I dropped it off at Toyota to have it looked over and basic maintenance. I just got a message from the service advisor that it needs almost $15k worth of work. This include:

• Front brake boosters, calipers are leaking along with a small brake line, pads, rotors, shim kits, etc... $5600
• DS and PS inner and outer CV boots are leaking/ Power steering rack boots are torn and tie rod ends leaking $4400
• Valve cover gaskets are leaking, Tube seals are leaking, Timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, pcv valve, belt pulleys $4600
• plus regular oil change, tire rotation, basic service $389

I was not prepared for this hit as it was regularly serviced down there but I figured with it sitting, things happen. Frame and truck overall is in great shape. My question is:
-Do the work and keep the truck
-Dump the truck
-Have the dealer only do the really difficult stuff that would be tough without a lift like drivetrain and do the rest of the work myself if it is reasonable to do.

Thoughts?

 

Typical. The dealership probably wants the truck, especially if it's under 100k miles. Folks don't call them "stealerships" for nothing. It should have a generally rust-free frame if it only lived in FL, and that would sell in NJ for a premium. They know this, most of the frames up north are rusted to hell.

They're also going to quote you the worst-case, then add-on more later. Never use a stealership for service, when you can definitely find a local reputable Toyota specialty shop, often staffed by former Toyota dealership mechanics, who'll do it for half the price or less.

You failed to include current mileage, but I call bullshit on half the stuff in that list. The 3rd bullet point is about the only thing that makes sense, but the price is obnoxious. Timing belt/water pump/pulleys and tensioners should be no more than $1,500 with parts and labor, even at the dealership. Valve cover gaskets are a difficulty of about 3 out of 10 and a bit tedious, but not impossible for the at-home mechanic. I call bullshit on the spark plugs and PCV valve unless they really pulled one or more, which I doubt, but not knowing mileage or previous maintenance history I dunno.

On the others, like point 2 ... I doubt both CV are leaky, and both tie rod ends ("TRE") are leaky, would need pics. Replacement OEM remanufactured CV axles run about $200/ea on average if you know how to shop around (and depending on supply), and shouldn't be more than an hour per axle in labor (under $1k for both parts & labor), only use OEM on those. TRE are much cheaper I doubt both steering rack boots are torn, seems highly unlikely, you can get away with specific aftermarket brands on those. Either way, any other shop would charge under $1,500 for that I would expect.

Take point 1, I call bullshit. If the booster and calipers were leaking, you'd have no fluid in the master cylinder and other issues. If the lines aren't rusty, I call bullshit on nearly all of it. $1,000 should more than overhaul your brakes at a respectable shop.

This thread is worthless without pictures. Honestly. But bottom line: That quote is complete and total bullshit. Take the truck to a reputable local INDEPENDENT Toyota specialist shop.

And to that point, I disagree with all of your solutions. The step forward is finding a local Toyota specialist and having them do their own inspection. Compare their take on things to what the stealership gave you. And come back here with that info.

 

Sorry, I realize I forgot to say the truck has 185k on it. I added some pictures they sent me while it was on the lift. My mother was really good about having the truck maintained with whatever it needed. The truck started it days as a NJ truck then moved with her down to FL in 2015. I was anticipating the engine work but not all this additional stuff.

 

I agree with everything shifty said.

It's an older truck with a few leaks, not a big deal imho. Get the tie rod ends and boots replaced. The cv axles spit some grease, but if they aren't spitting anymore then I'd run them as is. If they keep spitting, then get new straps for the boots.

 

That's pretty low mileage. Did she have it serviced at Toyota, or somewhere else? If at Toyota, you should be able to get the service records online at the Toyota Owners website. If not, ask her if she kept ANY of the records, since that's gold when it comes to future service.

These trucks have a penchant for leaking at the valve covers. It happens. And when it does, it rains down on everything and makes it really difficult to see what's leaking. It will cover a lot of stuff.

Something strange, in the very 1st pic you posted above, it looks like that's the passenger side lower control arm's cam bolt, I see the CV axle's pink tag in the background. Probably have an oil leak above that, potentially the valve cover also. Think about the outer footprint of your engine block... if the valve covers are leaking, it'll drip on anything below that point. Sometimes it'll run down the block, into nooks and crannies, and come out in other places.

2nd and 3rd pic ... I do see some grease sling lines at the CV boots, it's there but it's not that significant IMHO, though there's plenty on one. If the axles themselves aren't crunchy, a competent shop could take the boot service kit and re-boot your CV axles, it's totally normal. You DO NOT need to replace CV axles *if* the CV boot is intact (no rips) and sealed, and the axle itself isn't crunchy/poppy. But something worth noting: Most of the wet sling appears to be at the inner boot which ... just so happens to sit roughly under the area leaking oil from valve covers would drop, so it may not even be that the boots are leaking significantly. Bottom line: CV axle reboot is NOT something that I would put at a high priority, it's safe to drive as-is, but it's something I'd (A) want to get in with a pack of shop rags and wipe everything clean so you can keep track of it, and (B) make plans to have a competent Toyota shop re-boot - reboot kit only ... watch that video above! - or swap in OEM remanufactured axles, and keep on trucking.

4th pic... that's just oil drips on the manifold from the passenger side valve cover leak. Not a big deal. Seems like most of what they scared you with here is due to valve covers leaking.

Clearly, 5th and final pic, the steering rack bellow over that one inner tie rod needs replacement, it looks like someone cut that bastard off, which is just ... weird, bro. It's not a tedious job to replace, but some people could get intimidated by popping the tie rod end free to get to it.

Did your mom keep *ANY* service records? Does she remember if the timing belt has ever been replaced? If not, you're due for your 2nd one already based on mileage. That's important - these trucks have low interference engines, and if that belt breaks at any significant RPMs, your engine can become a big ass boat anchor.

If you don't understand what the suspension components are, CHECK THIS (and the couple replies after it, which also show grease sling lines).

I would personally keep this truck if the frame looks that good everywhere.

Prioritize getting the following work done:

• For you, read this thread ASAP if not done already.
• Check the oil, brake fluid, and power steering fluid levels to make sure they're in spec - especially if you know leaks are happening
• Make sure the coolant is reddish pink; these trucks should not have orange, yellow, green, purple, or any other color coolant in them (check at the overflow bottle)
• Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, pulleys, and do the thermostat while in there (this is the OEM/Aisin kit you want, but DO NOT buy it on Amazon, eBay, or other counterfeit-laden websites! Note: Doesn't include a t-stat!!!)
• May as well have them proactively do the drive/serpentine belt while in there, the Gates HD green belt is a great choice
• Valve cover gaskets replaced, but you may be able to tighten those down today to quell a lot of the leaking (DO NOT ratchet hard on them, they will snap off!!)
• Get that steering rack bellows repaired on the one side
• I'd recommend doing the push/pull test on the front wheels to verify if the tie rod ends, ball joints, and bearings are bad (If you don't know how to do this, go to YouTube and search "How To Inspect Your Ball Joints & Tie Rod Ends For Wear")
• Have a trusted Toyota shop check the brakes out for you. Don't use a Meineke, Midas, Firestone, NTB, or similar chain shop to do this
• Grease the driveline! This is hugely important - all zerks along the driveshaft with NLGI#2, moly-fortified grease, and note the slip yoke zerk is an oddball, and will cause the most problems. Need more info? Ask.

Things to consider down the road:

• Replace the radiator with a new one, specifically from Denso, and a new radiator cap (proactively, to avoid 'pink milkshake')
• Consider possibly having CV Axle re-boot service, after you've cleaned the mess, and only if you continue to see sling lines (see below for what sling lines look like - basically visualize what would happen if the axle spins and throws out grease, what splatter lines would it make?)
• If spark plugs were never done, that should be a priority also, replace with Iridium plugs, I prefer NGK, but Denso is also advised, DO NOT buy on Amazon or eBay, spark plug counterfeiting is a huge market!
• Drain/fill of the transmission, specifically refilling using WS fluids, DO NOT let someone put anything else in there (don't bother with the filter; also note, your transmission is sealed, so this isn't something easily done by yourself!)
• I can't think of other stuff, others may want to chime in.

Here's those grease sling lines, as shown in your pics - notice these lines coincide with the very edge of the boots. It's common to have the level of sling you're showing after installing a lift in these trucks. This really IS NOT that bad, the dealership is really nitpicking to weasel extra work out.

​

 

Those repair prices are a joke. Knock a 0 of each of them and you are closer to a real price.

 

I just picked up the truck from Toyota while I figure out my next steps. I appreciate all the help you guys have provided, especially Shifty. I have most of her maintenance records so I can see what she had done, which isn't much beyond tires and regular maint. I think next steps for me might be to get a second opinion as suggested and also take a better look myself at the things they are saying need to be done. I worked on all my own vehicles back in the day so I have mechanical knowledge. If most of the jobs are relatively straight forward and do not specialized equipment then I should be able to do it. I don't want to give up on this truck yet but cost is obviously a huge factor.

 

I mean, really ... we're here for you. This is one of the better forums I've been to on the internet, not only is there a plethora of "how to" information (which we can link you up with), but the people are extremely friendly and willing to help.

Like ... with the valve covers. Of course, check to make sure they're more than finger-tight. If they're already finger tight + 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn, everything you need to know is here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#post-2712883

The process is "simple" just lots of steps. Doing the plug seals isn't fun. Cleaning the old crap off isn't either. While you have the driver's cover off, replace the PCV valve. There's a pair of right-hand angles on the block where you need to put a dollop of FIPG when re-seating the covers that isn't necessarily "easy".

Just - broken record here - don't buy your parts from Amazon or eBay, or similar online vendors. For smaller, lighter stuff, a lot of people like shopping at McGeorge Toyota, or use the corporate site (https://autoparts.toyota.com) and pick up from a local participating dealership, noting that each different dealership gives their own discount rates for online orders, so shop around when building a cart. Also, if you need to ship stuff, the coupon "FREESHIP" works most of the time for shipping on orders over $75.

Plenty more where that came from.

But weed back thru the receipts, the timing belt is one of those "big three" items that, if it fails, strong potential you've got a brick on your hands. You want to change it at least every 10yr/10k miles with Aisin brand parts (Toyota recommends 9yr/90k miles, but you can fudge it if OEM parts).

If at any point you replace the lower balljoints, that's another one of the "big three" items, you need to buy OEM with those.

That thread I said to "read ASAP" has many of the little morsels we often kick around randomly here or there.

Anyway, welcome to the 1st gen family, and welcome to the forum. I'm sure you've got a keeper. If you intend to keep driving it in winter time, please get the frame film'd with something like Fluid Film or Woolwax. Rusted frames is, sadly, the last of the "big three" killers, in my personal opinion.

 

I really appreciate it. I have a second opinion appointment scheduled with a local Toyota mechanic shop to see what his honest opinion is and to get a cost on the work I might not be able or want to handle myself. I love the thread you posted about "read ASAP". I used that a few times this past weekend when I was looking up bulbs and the annoyances of LED bulbs. Looking through the truck I really think they may have overinflated some of the needs. There are some things, like the brakes, that definitely need to be done. The pedal practically goes to the floor to bring the truck to a stop. I downloaded the 05 Toyota service manual to read up on what I am getting myself into. It's not my daily driver so that's helpful. I can take my time and do it right.

Here she is in all her glory.

 

@shifty` - correct me if I’m wrong but looks like CV boot is torn where it’s slinging grease. Recommend repacking and rebooting those.

OP - all needed items are easily DIY although timing belt is tedious job. Follow advice on this forum and check out videos. We can help you if you want to DIY

 

@kayaklabguy - never take a FGT to a dealer for repair unless it’s a covered recall item. If you don’t want to fix something yourself, recommend finding a reputable local independent garage. Someone on this forum near you may have a good contact.

 

Can you get pics of the engine? Specifically the sides. And if you take it to a second shop, don't show them the estimate from Toyota until after they give you an estimate. My 300k mile truck didn't even need $15k in maintenance when I got it, and even with a lift and massive stereo I don't think I'm there yet.

 

Yes now that the sun is up I wanted to take a look and see what they were seeing.

 

@shifty` something isn't matching up with their claims. I took my own pictures this morning and while I am not a professional mechanic, I do not see everything they are claiming. The only thing I could verify is the trashed passenger side steering boot. Let me know what you think.

DS

PS

 

Valve cover gaskets definitely need to be replaced. They're drenching everything underneath with oil. This is not normal, and is actually really common in these trucks. The gasket compresses with time, which is similar to the bolts loosening, oil leaks by, and you have a mess on everything below. And there are pathways for it to leak down the front and rear of the block, and via some interesting paths, like it will run across the oil dipstick support (I'm pointing out), then run down that tube and saturate everything under via that route. Yours is some of the worst I've seen - they should've been replaced a long time ago. But yeah, all this oil, this is why everything underneath the engine block is coated! CHECK YOUR OIL LEVELS! Red lines show where the cover is leaking, and ... is the source of the oil stain on the manifold you see on the other end of the silver piece just under that arrow pointing to the dipstick tube

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Both steering rack bellows need to be replaced, there's definitely a rip in the other side that appears undamaged to you, I highlighted it below. But, I'd need to look under my truck to know for sure if it's possible, but I clearly see signs of oil-drips from above on both sides of the rack.

On the passenger side, notice that here - all that wetness is ABOVE any power steering fitting, making me think it's not the rack that's leaking. But you REALLY need to replace the bellows here to preserve what's left of your rack from debris, water, etc.:

​

Same on passenger side of rack. Bellows rip circled in red. I also am pointing out that little drip circled in blue. Is that fluid red/amber in color (ATF, which is what our racks use) or purely brown (i.e. oil from above?) I suspect ATF, and your rack has a small leak. But look at that blue outline I drew also, it looks as if you're getting oil stained from above, potentially?

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The outer CV boots look fine to me, unless someone else sees rips? The inner boots, I'm almost positive they're not slinging grease, and here's why I say that. They're totally shiny, apparently coated with oil, not grease. That has me thinking it's not grease they're slinging, it's built-up oil+dirt+old grease mixture because the valve covers are leaking so seriously onto them. I'd jack the truck up and check ... If the CV axles are not crunchy or chunky when spinning the wheels while jacked up, I don't know if I'd replace (if money is tight).

And just for proof of that, take this passenger side shot and you can clearly see how/where the oil from the valve covers is leaking directly onto the steering rack and the CV axle, amongst other crap - after the valve cover gaskets get replaced you need to spend some time in here with shop towels cleaning all this shit up so you know if a new leak happens later! Yellow arrows show how/where the drips are happening from above. Blue arrows point to the parts below I'm highlighting, with the drip radius circled.

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I don't see any of the purported brake leaks. Soft pedal can be simply be due to ill adjustment.

It's also worth noting, the shocks on your front struts are dying a slow death. Not only are the bodies rotting out, but the round bushings on the lower mount are starting to disintegrate. Bilstein 4600 is what you'll want to replace with. You should also check out the rears.

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Biggest urgencies I see here:

• Check your fluids: Oil, power steering, brake (Note: Power steering takes ATF in these trucks, not the standard "Power Steering Fluid" bottle from the store)
• Change timing belt, water pump, tensioners, pulleys with the Aisin brand kit, PLUS have them do the thermostat PLUS the drive/serpentine belt (this will be the big $$ item, expect an avg. of $1,200 - $1,600)
• Change valve cover gaskets, including spark plug seals and hardware PLUS have them do the PCV valve at same time (list of valve cover parts is in the link I gave above)
• Replace both bellows, unless the cost to replace the rack at the Toyota specialty shop less than double what new bellows would cost (have the shop evaluate inner/outer tie rods and consider replacing)
• Brake inspection from a Toyota specialty shop specifically, if this sat for a long time, I'd have them flush the fluid totally
• Grease the entire driveline, especially the slip yoke
• Spark plugs, if not done recently, specifically with NGK or Denso Iridium plugs from a trusted source/vendor
• Have them verify the sealed transmission fluid level, and probe about a simple drain/refill to get a tiny bit of fresh Toyota WS fluid in there (Toyota recommends replacing fluid after 60k; some are superstitious about it; a few repeat drain/fills is a good, safe compromise)
• Total work I would expect to fall into the $3,500 - $4,500 range (on average, +/- $1k) which beats the hell out of trying to buy a new vehicle!

Beyond that, down the road:

• Replace the radiator with Denso brand: Maybe consider adding this in with the timing belt work above. The transmission line passes through the lower part of the radiator and eventually fails, mixing trans fluid with coolant, killing the trans. It happens. Look up "pink milkshake toyota"
• Keep an eye on your CV boots, consider having the shop utilize a re-booting kit, or proactively replace with OEM remanufactured axles, even if you need to be the one buying those.
• Replace those shocks and struts, if not lifting, Bilstein 4600 is your ticket.
• Get into a regular drain/fill routine on the transmission, 3-4 is plenty to refresh the fluid significantly. Replace with Toyota WS fluid.
• COAT THE FUCKING FRAME BEFORE WINTER TIME WITH SOMETHING THAT'S PETROLEUM BASED (like Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc)

 

Thank you again for the reply. I've been watching videos and reading all the resources you provided. Consider that Toyota wants almost $5k to do the engine stuff, that's a hard no. I will see what the local shop quotes me and then consider doing it myself. The only thing that worries me is the timing mark stuff and making sure I do that right. Otherwise most other things look straight forward. Brakes, steering boots, tie rod ends, etc... should all be doable as I put a lift on my 4runner year back so I have the general idea down. The boots I will inspect and/ or reboot or replace. Since it's a secondary vehicle, I can take my time and do things right.
@shifty` I think your summary of the CV boots makes a ton of sense. Crap dripping down and being slung outwards may have caused what looks like a torn boot.

 

Timing belt is the one thing I'd probably hire out. I have faith most folks can manage the other things with time and effort.

You'll need very few specialty tools. When you do the CV axles, if original, you'll need a 35mm socket for the axle nut.

Other than that ... most everything is standard. You did see where you can grab a copy of the service manual in that one thread, near the top, correct?

 

Yup I spent time going through that. I then sent it to my gf and said she needs to read up on how to do the work because I'll need the extra set of hands.

 

Every time I see you reply to these types of posts with just a few pics I am stunned. You pick up tons of detail, line out repair plans, and give easy to follow guidance and you do it all in a really polite way. Hats off to you, @shifty` because you've likely forgotten more about these trucks and general mechanic work than I will ever know.

 

Probably wouldn't hurt to throw some new vacuum hoses on there. This is the kit a lot of us use:

https://www.siliconeintakes.com/liq...-p-590.html?osCsid=rg0u55u4augs3dbomvennu4eb1

It'll get most of what you need, but it's missing one size. The bigger one. Can't remember off the top of my head...

 

Ok status update:
I brought it to the other shop today and left it with them all day. I called an hour before they were closing to see the status on what they think they truck needs but they didn't even look at the truck. They said maybe Monday before someone could look at it. F that. I picked it up and I will do the work myself.

Fast forward 2 hours later and I have placed the order for mostly all the parts I think I will need.
Toyota website

• Spark plug tube gasket
• Valve cover gaskets
• PCV valve
• Serp belt
• Thermostat
• Spark plugs
• Tie rod ends
• FIPG

Summit Racing

• ASIN Timing Belt kit
• Denso Radiator (as shifty recommended, might as well do it while I've got it all apart)
• Grease as recommended for the joints

Rockauto

• Gates belt tensioner
• Radiator fan clutch bearing bracket
• Steering boots
• Calipers, rotors, pads ( I will see if it needs a booster/ master cylinder once I change things out but reading the paperwork from Toyota it's written like they don't know if either needs to be replaced)

The only thing I couldn't find on your recommended list on the Toyota website was the valve cover bolts/ gaskets and the Lower Ball Joints. I will go to Toyota and ask for those since the website didn't seem to have them. Also the brake shim kit since my experience is the OEM ones work best. Am I missing anything else? I will be inspecting the CV boots while I have everything apart. Shocks will have to wait until I start pulling everything apart and seeing if more money needs to be spent. So far all told with parts I am at $1500 which is a far cry from $15,000. I will probably need only a few specialty tools like the pulley tool and the socket for the pulley but otherwise, I have a toolbox full of everything else I should need. @shifty` I will pay your airfare to do this with me hahaha

 

Bellows for the power steering rack.

 

Valve cover bolts

 

When I was on the Toyota site they didn't come up so I'll try the dealership tomorrow.

 

Any time you hit a problem where a part won’t show up, try removing the dash or adding a dash.

like, if 90080-10330 doesn’t produce a result, try removing the dash, i.e. 9008010330. As most part numbers are grouped in 5 digit bunches if 9008010330 doesn’t work, add a dash in the 6th position, i.e. 90080-10330

I’ve noticed with the new site, if you give your VIN, sometimes it won’t return parts they deem won’t fit. That bolt kit is for newer vehicles technically, but …. As we all know here, they are basically identical and work the same.

 

That is not even close to $15,000 in work. They are throwing a terribly high number at you because they want to tackle easier stuff that they know how to easily fix. Take it to an import mechanic and get another opinion. It looks bad because there are leaks but I'm betting that could all be fixed for under $3000 (at the absolute most), and you probably don't have to fix everything that you are seeing.

 

Hell yeah. That sounds like a good weekend right there. What part of the country are you in? There may be someone on here in your neck of the woods who could lend a hand.

 

PSA about dealers. Many like the one in my town don’t participate in the Toyota parts delivery program (rat bastard) and will come up with crazy list prices. I ordered a couple of OEM bolts w/ washers for the lower engine cover 90080-11373 and they wanted $6.53 ea. I told the gal at the parts counter that’s a bit steep compared to parts.Toyota.com and she lowered the price to $1.73 ea which is still highway robbery but more tolerable

 

I am in NJ. I am going to take my time and do it over a few weekends and some during the week. I ordered the bolts and lower ball joints this morning so everything should be here this week at various points.

 

Awesome! Hit us up if you have any questions, problems concerns.