What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah, with a DRL truck, don’t attempt any quick fog anytime mods such as feeding parking lights into the switch input.

probably the first step is probing the switch to see if it’s power or ground switched. Two wires are parking lights and dash illumination negative, should be easy to identify those. The other two are input and output.

Personally, given the headache and cost, I’d just go with an independent harness and skip the OEM fuse and relay. Wiring on these old trucks is weak anyway.

I’m not sure how to do it safely. All I know is that the easy way was not safe and blew up my integration relay.

I plan to use a Switch-Pros for my two front pods and the rear set. If I ever get time to do wires.

 

Unplug DRL connector kills DRL on my truck.

 

$75 round here

 

I’d really just like to get a sequoia stalk with fog lights on the stalk. I actually do have a sequoia stalk with an auto option but don’t think it has fog lights and I sent it to Johnny years ago to see if he can dig up the connector for it. Haven’t taken my dash apart yet as far as the wheel goes. Someday.

 

Damn thanks for hitting me back. Well far from dumbest thing ive done. Lol. Yea between the dimmer /drl/ alarm tied in that was designed late 80's. I think making symple circuit is best bet. I think i will just forgo whole thing for now. So nobody has really ironed that oem mod thing out for the first gens? Surprised.

 

Ill let you guys know what i come up witb or fry if I get bored.

 

I think the 03+ also have the fogs on the switch. Mine does.

 

Where are you guys mounting your switch pro's. Sunlight visor that is worthless anyway lol?

 

Yes, if @Puppypunter ever paints the insert I bought for it. Some guy 3D prints one, I can try to find it.

I’ll hunt for a part number but silly me wanted auto or at least DRL on the stalk as well as fog lights and then the dash indicator working for fog lights as well. Quite a tall order, hence my lack of progress. A Switch-Pros would really just get it done. And since I have two pod spots now, I’d either need to auto toggle w high beams or tie in the middle pair as DRL / high or … and I guess have the selective yellow override them. So the automation is all tbd too.

 

Ditto on my '06. @daveeasa I looked up the p/n for my stalk:

$96 84140-0C050 Dimmer Switch

84140-0C050 <---- (Don't use this link, it was auto-inserted. If you order OEM parts from scAmazon, you're gonna get ripped off!)

 

It definitely looks super clean. The one I have is used but has Auto, don't remember if it has fogs though. I definitely want fogs if I'm swapping the stalk, but getting it all pinned and wired up, that's time.

Johnny has a full auto system for his SR5 Tacoma built out, dozens of relays, and a few override switches to disable/modify behavior. It's pretty intense, he has tons of lights going on too. I don't want to go that crazy but the switch blank situation in our trucks is a real headache.

With that said, 8 circuits on the switch-pros solves for all of this with less work and I already own the switch-pros.

1. Fog lights (of course anytime now)
2. Driving lights (or whatever I put in the middle spot of the front pods
3. Rear lights (if I do one trigger from Reverse I can auto these, or I can do the trigger off cargo and auto them that way too)
4. DRL (tie to ignition so always on, but gives a clean way to turn off for nightstalker mode, would send to the backlights on the pods or possibly
5. Backlight (if separate from 4, dunno)
6. Compressor (need some sort of trigger)
7. Shell interior dome lights (tie to cargo trigger) but these are dual color red/white so maybe a 2nd circuit for them
8. Grille lights (similar to 5 and/or 4 so not really needed but maybe if the circuit exists

I could play around with that and do multiple feeds off one circuit as I adjust, like 4, 5 and 8 all on one button, don't think it's big current draw.

Winch will use the blue sea switch under the hood so nothing switch-pros there.

That would leave seat heat and mirror heat for oval buttons since they are in-cab functions anyway, no great reason to run power through the firewall from the switch-pros for them. Or independent seat heat if I can figure out a spot for the passenger switch. And redarc in the side curtain airbag off switch location near the dimmer.

That's a rough outline of the major electrical TBD's in the FGT.

 

Got the truck back from the shop. New OEM upper and lower ball joints, front Bilstein 6112 kit to level it out, new 4600s in the rear. It looks so much better level. The prior owner had put in some cheap Autozone coil overs up front, it was sitting 4 inches lower than the rear, looked awful and was so close to the bump stops just sitting on level cement.

I also slapped in the easy lift tailgate torsion bar today. Supposed to be a 2 man job but I got it done myself, probably going to be paying for that with a sore back for a few days.

 

For the record, I didn't link that up, the forum did. I'll edit to warn people about the link

 

I still need to do my easy lift torsion bar. Any lessons learned?

 

I followed someone elses advice and moved the drilled hole from where they recommend on the bedside, to a slightly different position (lower) for less rubbing on the hinge iirc.

 

These look fancy.

• 

 

Any remote chance you can help me find specifics? Or maybe grab some numbers off your truck so I can write them down?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-811#post-2022104
But also maybe helpful
https://www.tundras.com/threads/adding-tailgate-assist.71398/
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tailgate-assist-shocks-or-support.83571/

 

I really wish those tailgate assist contraptions had a plastic insert to put into the bed, so you could paint (seal) your drill hole, then pop in the plastic insert, and not have metal-on-metal rub. Not only for smoothness of opening, noise control, and longevity, but also to counter rust-related issues that come from drilling into your body.

 

Isn't there another type of tailgate slow-opener that is a set of shocks to replace the cables? or sumthin like that

 

I think DeeZee has a shock-based one but would need to confirm it's available for the 1GT.

 

Can someone explain to me how OME springs lift the truck versus adjusting preload, like on a Bilstein 5100? I’m getting ready to order OME 2884 to level my truck. Can’t quite wrap my head around how taller springs on stock size struts aren’t just adding preload to the strut assembly. Thanks!

 

Seems doable with a nylon insert. I bet there's even an OEM part which might work OK for this. Thanks for the lead on the adjustment, glad I asked.

 

They have a heavier spring rate. The spring takes more weight to compress to a lower ride height than stock springs. Adjusting the preload on the coils will move the fixed location of the spring and doesn't adjust the spring rate. When you adjust the preload within reason, the length of the spring when compressed at ride height remains close to what it would've been before you adjusted the preload. Your truck is sitting higher because you changed the fixed location of the spring.

With a heavier spring instead of preload, the length of the spring when compressed is longer. When you start adding a lot more weight, you'll see diminishing returns on the ride height from a heavier spring. Heavier springs and adjustable coilovers are the ticket if you want to have full control over your ride height.

There's much more to this but this is the simplest way to describe it. Preload and spring rate do have an influence on your ride quality too.

 

So, before answering, I guess I'd ask you this: Are your current springs older than 150k miles? If so, you should probably replace them anyway.

But beyond that, you're talking about lifting in two different ways:

• Using standard-length spring, but adjusting the strut collar/bucket up one or more circlip to compress it beyond its natural resting length.
• Using a longer-than-standard spring, but leaving the strut collar at its most basic level, leaving the spring at its most natural resting length.

At least in my understanding, which I'm always open to being wrong, the preload difference - if we agree "preload" is defined as "how much the spring is compressed when mounted, at rest", then, IMHO:

• With OEM spring, your preload tension is ZERO at the bottom circlip, as increase each circlip and the spring is shortened even more, the technical "preload" may be the same, but your spring is more compressed, thus cannot respond as favorably to impacts, although it may return more rapidly due to tension increase. You're getting your lift in this case from adjusting the strut collar upward.
• With lifted spring, your preload tension is ZERO at the bottom circlip and doesn't change, and the spring is less compressed thus likely more responsive to impacts and less tense on its releases. You're getting your lift in this case from the added length of the spring itself versus lifting the strut collar.

This is only my interpretation of the situation. I may be wrong. There have been MANY arguments on this topic at this forum, and just about every other automotive forum I've ever been on.

 

I like this explanation way more than mine.

 

I’ve heard it said, if you can’t explain it to a 6 year old, you don’t understand it well enough yourself. But being able to make anything easily understandable or relatable is a great skill to have.

 

These came in today. Time to hit the salvage yard to get that replacement timing cover; hopefully for 1/2 off used.

 

I would never say that to a college professor unless you have no intention on passing their class. One of the reasons why they have TAs.