What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I didn't check that, will have to. Thanks. Gonna get on a first name basis with the dealership parts girl pretty soon here.

 

Duh bro, what did you think this song was about? Totally the background music playing during that scene.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXqPNlng6uI​

 

Beautys a light switch away, amigo

 

Installing the Bilstein 5100s with OME springs that were preindtalled and cant figure out what these 4 big washers are for. Instructions say they're for jounce bumpers?

 

"jounce bumper" is another word for "bump stop".

Some vehicles will have bump stops integrated into the strut, I've only seen it once or twice in my lifetime. Our trucks have two bump stops on each side of the frame, facing downward, up front. Hold up and I'll get a pic from my recent suspension activities. I dunno where you'd be using those? (left stop is hidden, but it's there - basically these are what the LCA come in contact with when the suspension is in full travel upward, i.e. hitting a big ass bump - I assume this is the 'jounce bumpers' they're talking about?)

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Those big washers are for your front bumpstops. They spin on and off with a larger crescent. Use two washers as spacers to make the bump stops stick down a little further, then reinstall. Keeps you from bottoming out the shocks. I didn’t use them with my first set. Blew the passenger side shock at 60k miles, may not have been related.

 

Makes sense, then.

I mean, if I were really worried about it, I'd probably replace the factory bump stops with Duros. I need to see what my travel is like once I get my suspension in.

 

Ahhh thank you, makes sense. Will throw them on tomorrow. Got one side in no problem, but the driver side is a pain. The bolt at the bottom was bent and a normal ass nut was securing it. Went to fit the shock and the bottom wouldnt line up parallel with the bracket, offset a bit. The blue lines would be the bracket, green is the shock. I dont know enough about suspension besides messing with the spring can kill you, so I'm not sure if its possible to twist it to fit. I would think I'd have to mess with the nut keeping the spring in tension right?

 

I'm not following the problem. You mean the shock mount won't line up so the bolt goes straight through? If so, just take a BFS (big f'n screwdriver), insert into the shock mount, spin the shock shaft until aligned, then insert into LCA provision and work the bolt thru.

With my truck, I found it's easier to remove the top bolt of the swaybar link while the truck is still on the ground to gain some added LCA downward travel making the job easier, but there's no reason you can't do it now. EDIT: Although it'll be easier if you grab the OEM bottle jack and toss it under the tapered end of the LCA, and jack it up to relieve tension on the swaybar link. Reattach when the truck is back on the ground, or use the jack to jack it back up into place, maybe easier.

I'm pretty sure the lower strut mount nut on mine was a normal nut also, is the other side different? It's unusual the bolt is bent though. I'd probably want a new one, personally. But that's just me. I'm anal-retentive.

Make sure you install the bolt the same direction it came out. Nut should be on the front bumper side, bolt head facing the rear. Careful not to damage your CV boot in the process.

As long as the spring is mounted properly inside the strut, there's not really any risk of losing teeth or skull fractures.

 

Yup, exactly. I wasn't sure if I could mount and twist to fit without damaging the assembly. A lot of this is new to me so I appreciate the help.

Yeah the bent bolt is concerning, and the regular nut as well. The passenger side nut for the mount bolt had a flange on it, much more substantial as well. Back to the parts department tomorrow I guess

 

Mine is a regular nut and washer. That's it. Pic below. For our 2006, per parts system, here's your part numbers.

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It skipped the other pic of my bolt etc. Here.

 

Last but not least, can confirm it's just a regular old nut, not flared at the base. So mine must be stock.

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what a dawg, absolute G. been struggling to find those numbers!

 

I needed to run them down myself, I dicked up the threads a little bit on my bolt pulling out the OEM strut, LCA dropped and jammed the bolt, then the bolt head was on a crash course to tear my CV boot, it was a debacle. First time getting into the meat of 1GT suspension over here, some mishaps occurred

 

blazing a trail for the rest of us

 

Pffffft, I'm standing on the shoulders of giants brother. Consider me a parrot with fair-to-mid info retention and access to a few resources.

 

Radiator and radiator accessories are here. Radiator juice looks fine, so I don't need a flush or full drain. How much coolant do I need? And how long will this take on a sequoia? It's got a bunch of weird shit on the front. I also need to get a radiator funnel. Do parts stores carry those? I'm looking to do this Sunday when we get back from the lake.

 

https://youtu.be/wpNqsXDL8Lw

this vid might help

 

I have no idea how much you'll get out of just the radiator. I had to add over 3 gallons when I drained the block last month.
You might have to buy 2 gallons and end up only using half.

 

I just ordered a Lisle 2468 kit that should work. Ships today and should be here Friday. I can bring it by on Sunday.

 

Man, I love the cap on that thing. I wonder what brand it is. SnugTop? Looks like the same long-oval logo I saw on a truck in NorCal that fit so nicely. Awesome OEM+ look to it. Fits perfect.

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Hey, that set up looks familiar!

 

Coolants are diols which oxidize into diacids over time. If your coolant is more than a year or two old, drain and refill with new. I opened the drain clock on the radiator and then removed the lower hose at the radiator. There are two 10mm block drains below the exhaust manifold. Easy to reach with socket wrench and 6 in extension. If you have a lot of corrosion be careful or they may snap. Turn heater on max to open valve that controls coolant flow to heater core. No need for Lisle kit. I used a household bucket to catch old coolant and put it into the empty jugs to take to our local recycle center.

 

@bfunke

A spill proof funnel makes the refill/air-bleeding a hands free one step process. Eliminates all the checking and filling and checking and filling after having the cooling system open. Definitely in the nice to have, but not necessary category.

Also, I like to drain mine right right back into the ground where it came from

 

That would be awesome. I was gonna order one but it said Thursday delivery, which is when we leave, and I don't want it sitting out that long.

 

@bmf4069 might not be a bad idea to change ironmans coolant, too; if this winter is supposed to be as harsh as they're predicting.

 

Pretty sure my coolant is green too.

 

Did you say you were going to wait and do the timing belt in a year from now? I'd just knock it out with the radiator now if you can.