What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Has anyone done a passenger window auto rolldown feature much like the driver's side? It doesn't seem like it would be that hard to do although I'm guessing I'd need a different toggle switch or need to put in some type of latch circuit to make it happen. I think I may try it.

 

The sequoias had auto windows on both front doors.

 

Thanks, @Mr.bee. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram of one to see if it's different. Maybe the latch is built into the switch?

Is that a separate window rolldown switch? I need to look at mine real quick.

Edit: Nevermind, that's the door lock switch.

 

I feel like it was @empty_lord who might've inferred there was something special about the actuator/motor though, that made it work with the auto-down function of the button? Maybe I'm smoking crack.

I wanted to port over, it was on my list of mods until I read that, whoever wrote it. There's a reason I scratched it off. I figure porting the button over would be pretty straightforward.

 

I'm guessing the Anti-pinch feature is part of the motor mechanism and maybe different for the auto up ones?

 

I didn't dig on the point, but you may very well be correct.

 

Oh, I think I remember that. Maybe the motor has a separate output that tells the switch to disengage because the window is either all the way up or down?

 

Auto down is great. I hate auto up because it always engages when I don't want it to

 

Something on my brain is telling me there's something to do with load/line resistance, like when the motor is closed, resistance builds, it trips something in the switch, but ... again, drawing a blank. Search Fu isn't on par today.

 

When reading up on it, the current through the motor defines when you get a resistance. There’s even an IC made by Atmel, AVR480, that implements an algorithm with a hall-effect sensor just for anti-pinch operation. Pretty interesting stuff but a lot more complicated than I expected unless something simple like a limit switch is used for just all the way up and down.

 

I've had a recurring P0420 code. catalyst system efficiency of your car is below threshold (Bank 1)
Now the light stays on. I just decided to try to swap bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the code follows, but the downstream on bank 2 has a short pigtale. Bank 1 has a long pigtale, so swapping won't be an option.
Are there any other ideas on how to diagnose this code?
Bank 1 downstream only had 1 (of the 2) nuts holding it on. Would that cause the code?

 

Made up a roadside emergency kit. Nothing fancy just got some stuff in here from an older kit I was throwing out:
- jumper cables
- standard toolkit with some extras thrown in (zip ties, fuses, etc.)
- first aid
- air compressor
- gloves, emergency blanket, poncho, etc.
- ratchet strap and bungee cord
- need to figure out a good place to stash a four-way tire iron

 

Oh and one of my kids lowered the passenger-side visor and this fell out and literally “broke”. Like it’d never been opened!

 

Mine is on the driver’s side and hasn’t been remove since day 1.

 

Mine is sealed into a pouch in the visor, driver's side

Previous owner - for whatever reason - removed the white/yellow caution sticker that was on my driver visor. You can see the faintest traces of glue still. Drives me nuts.

I couldn't find a good place to stash my 4-way in the truck.

I recently gave away my jumper cables, after buying and getting to use one of

$130 Autowit Super Capacitor Jump Starter, 12V Batteryless Portable Jump Box, Jumper Cables for 8.0 Gas&4.0 Diesel Car, Portable Jump Starter for Car Battery, Bulit-in Supercapacitor, No Need Pre-Charge

these Autowit doohickeys.

I was really surprised how easy/well it worked. Even on a battery that was, like, toast when I walked over to help a lady out who was stuck - battery was registering like 8v or something (left headlights on for a long time). Took about 6-7 minutes to fully charge up in that case, but when it did, her car turned right over. One of the few recent emergency technology things I've found that's actually handy, compact, convenient. Albeit spendier than jumper cables.

 

I bought one of those jump starters as well, havent had to use it yet though. Also, i store my 4 way under my driver seat along with that jump starter.

 

It's never the starter...

The other day I hopped in the truck to go to work, turned the key, and "Click". SFP! Well I've been to this movie before, in fact, I recently got a new battery and ground cables because of the same problem. So I hopped out, gave cables and battery camps a little twist...and "Vroom", off to work I go. Today I had time to fix it right. I pulled the camps off the posts, scrubbed them up with that bristly battery post thingy, and clamped them up good and tight. "Click!" SFP!! I peeled back the conduit on the positive cable to inspect for corrosion...good as new (The green electrical tape is because I didn't have any black handy. The aesthetic bugs me, but I'll change it when I find my black tape). I pull the starter relay (major pain in the ass, BTW) to test it...no problem. I used a shorting cable to turn the starter while the relay was out..."Click". "Click!!". "Click!!!" SFP squared! Then I saw it...

The two spade lugs on each of the positive cable were corroded underneath where they bolt on to the after market clamp. I unbolted those connections, scrubbed them clean with a file and then Emery cloth, then bolted the sandwich back together (7/16" BTW...Hmm, I wonder what else on my truck will turn out to be SAE). "Vroom"!

It's never the starter! But there went two hours of my life I'll never get back.

(Note to self: Add Emery cloth and SAE combination wrenches to my road tools).

 

We need a tundra song here encompassing the lyrics "It's never the starter" and "It's never the fuel filter".

 

I've got one in every car. I use Daylight Savings Time as a mnemonic to bring them inside to charge.

 

The one I linked requires no charge - it charges off the "dead" battery. It's basically a capacitor. It builds up a charge off the battery until the cap is at 100%, and once there, you tap a button to initiate discharge, then have 10 seconds to turn the car over. Pretty nifty. No need to pre-charge.

DIELECTRIC GREASE. Coat that shit, now you cleaned it. And FFS, even if they're seen as a gimmick, get you some of those terminal donut felts to cut down on terminal corrosion. I have them on all our cars, one of my wife's was exceptionally bad about throwing corrosion and the felts cut down on about 80-90% of it.

And yeah, it's never the starter ... until it is, but based on others here, you can expect to get a good 200-250k miles out of the factory unit. However, it's definitely NEVER the fuel filter

(I've had plenty of brands of cars where it was the fuel filter, though...)

 

I have ~ 245,000 miles, so I have PTSD about this (Pre-Traumatic Stress Syndrome)

 

I put these in all of my trucks. Came in super handy when an old fella at Sam's in a first gen had a flat tire years ago. Factory wrench wouldn't budge his lugs which had been tightened to 12 ugga duggas by some j-ass tire shop I'm sure. 4 way don't care about that, spun em right off. Had to stand on one side of the 4way and lean back to get it going.

 

What is SFP?

 

haha i was gonna ask that too, my guess was "so f'ing pissed"

 

I can't tell you how incredibly disappointed I am that the national DST reversal bill died in Congress. We were so, so freaking close dammit. We really need to get rid of it nationally.

Unfortunate thing is, for those who know how close we were, it's going to be salt in the wound twice a year when we roll forward and roll back.

 

I’ve only had to jump my FGT once. My 2018 Tundra died at 3 yrs. A coworker had one of those fancy little jumper things and got me going so I drove on toward home. Well the truck died about a 1/4 mile down the road. A passerby offered to jump me and follow me to Advance Auto. One the way it died twice more before I figured out my auto headlights would not allow it to run. Turned the headlight switch from auto to off and truck ran fine til I got to the auto store. I guess the OEM battery had a dead cell. Replaced it with an AGM of the same CCA and been great since

 

Sh@t, F#ck, P*ss

 

That was my first guess, haha. SGDPF!

 

yea the window motor is fancier to detect the up and down