What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

This is something I need to do myself.

 

Sounds pretty normal to me, like an engine after driving a while on a hot day. I'm also a believer that it's the injector tick and I've heard it on countless Toyota's. Maybe it sounds a little rough? Idk, every truck has it's own voice, ya know?

What condition are the spark plugs in? What about the air filter, etc? If I'm going to chase a noise, I try to start with the simple things.

 

@danb just for reference, this is what my truck sounds like after it's warmed up. Not too bad with headers

https://vimeo.com/850377267

 

Purring like a frikkin kitten. I hear the tick, but it doesn't sound like anything I'd worry about.

 

I read your entire build documentary from 2005 -11. What a journey. Brings on a flood of my own
build memories. Your documentation was incredible. I'm positive there are folks still benefiting from all the meticulous recording. You've far more patience than I. Nice work Shifty, you can be proud.

 

Appreciate the input my dudes, one more thing off the list. Getting my oil back from Blackstone next week, we'll see if theres any coolant mixed in. Thats the only other big issue / concern I got right now.

 

That's really kind of you, although there was plenty more content I could've put into the thread --- main goal wa accomplished, proving it was possible in a 67-72 C10, and outlining one concrete path to get there with standard parts.

Just sad I had to give it up at the end of the day, when the kids started popping out in 2009-2010, I still hadn't finished suspension, garage space was at a premium, it had to ultimately go.

The guy who bought it off me was a fellow enthusiast who did some fun things with it. These were some of the last pics he shot over to me, trying to get me to buy it back for like 6x what I sold it to him for.

​

 

Been there. Life happens, and then other projects come along. Looks like you sold it to the right person.

 

Man both of you had (have?) gloriously cool trucks. I like your new ones better, though! Wish I could drag one of you out to work on my C-10 with me....I actually just need to take like a week off and get 'er done, but work travel and family stuff (bought a new house and my list of honey-dos is interminable!) have been totally crazy. The good news is it was a barn find, so I mean really it's just getting more barn find-y with neglect.

 

Bro, I wish you were closer, I'm not kidding, you'd be driving around in that bastard already (If I didn't convince you to sell it to me first!)

Honestly, what you're up against is superficial compared to how up in the guts my GenIII build was. Granted, that wasn't my first C/S GM pickup, I've had several since I started driving legally. I was pretty comfortable with removing any and every bolt on that '68 and reinstalling it. They're really that simple to work with, and remain that way until you start getting into the '90s model GMT400s, or vehicles like @SateenC1's S10, because you're getting into more computer controlled stuff, tighter spaces to cram things into, and sometimes needing to blend harnesses. The glory of your C10 and my '68, for example, is the sheer lack of computerized anything, huge engine bays, simple horizontal-railed frames, and a plethora of aftermarket support.

But yeah, for you ... you just need to make sure you don't have a ton of old rubber/oil crusties in the system, change the oil, check the plugs and drop a little MMO in each cylinder, purge the fuel lines, refurb or replace the monojet, hook the fuel pump to a fresh gas supply line, and fire it up. 1-2 hours work? Really not much else to it. You've already got HEI on it, so no points to adjust. It'll huff some smoke the first 10-20 seconds I'm sure, but it should run like a top after. These I6 are pretty f'n bulletproof, little torquemonsters.

I'm sure there's other stuff you could do once you get there. You definitely need to adjust your shift linkage, which isn't horrendous once you look it over and figure out how it works and is adjusted. May need new valve cover gasket, exhaust manfiold gasket and bolts, but ... it'll run all day even w/o that work. Just don't be me: Don't get mired by the mountain of work. Make a list of MUST DO things, with clearly defined goals. Then check them off as you go. And don't make the classic scope-creep mistake of starting another task/project BEFORE you hit a major goal.

 

*Makes frustrated noises*

Finally got the time to replace the passenger cv yesterday and everything looked good, including the seal, well it turns out everything is NOT good. Noticed a small spot on the ground as I went to lunch. "Huh, must've been some oil pooled in the housing lip?", I thought to myself...cautious optimism flows over my body...

Wiped it away, drove back to work, went out to check and it's definitely leaking a little. The worst part is that I have the replacement seal already !! Just didn't think the seal looked/felt bad at all.

"If you were thinkin' you wouldn't've thought that!"

 

Give it a week or two and keep wiping the oil off. Mine leaked a little for a while and then stopped and never leaked again. It's been 3 years. But ya, worse case you pull the axle and replace the seal.

 

Yeah that's probably going to be my MO, as it ain't leaking much. I probably wouldn't be able to swap her out until, *checks schedule*, after Metallica end of this month.

 

Anyone willing to take a crack at helping me wire this switch correctly for some auxiliary led pod fog lights? I tried and failed. Already popped one fuse in the process. I'm using a fuse tap running off the tail light circuit.
It worked fine using the original push button switch which I've since cut off and I'm trying to wire up one of these: https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/c...17Y/Oval-LED-Rocker-Switch---Yellow-15a-12vdc
It didn't come with a diagram and there are no helpful labels on the switch itself other than the numbers 1, 2, 3 at each terminal.

Original switch:


Here's the new switch:


Relay:


Intended location:

 

Looks like yellow is battery 12v+, red is switched 12v+, black is ground.

If you have a meter see which terminals on the switch have continuity with the switch in the on position, then test the other terminals for continuity with the same terminals. Ground + battery 12v terminals will always have continuity, battery 12v and switched 12v will have continuity when the switch is on, switched 12v and ground will never have continuity.

 

I've got a meter so I'll get to testing, thanks for giving me a good starting point..

 

Username checks out!

 

oval switch looks like power in, switched power out and ground for the led indicating it is on.

Black is a clear ground candidate.

so red vs yellow is only a matter of getting the indicator working. One way it’s on regardless of switch position and the other it’s only on when switched on.

Use the output to feed the relay. Which also needs fused power and ground of course.

 

The relay is getting power from a fuse tap tied to the tail lights in the cabin and is grounded to the frame near the battery. I was hoping for a simple diagram on the package or switch itself but no such luck

 

It will stop leaking eventually.

 

Truth. Might be too early to celebrate, but it's stopped. There must've been a small pocket to cause just enough concern.

 

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html


Terminal 86 - Connect to the +12v low amperage signal from switch

Terminal 85 - Connect to a suitable earthing point on the vehicle chassis.

Terminal 30 - Connect to a +12V feed from the battery.

Terminal 87 - Connect to the +12V terminal of the driving light bulb or driving light loom.

LED rockers brass is usually ground, center is 12v per in, end is power out to terminal 86 of relay

 

'preciate all y'all

 

That bumper looks pimp as hail! Are those lights the ones you can order from Coastal Offroad or something you purchased separately?

I am close to pulling the trigger on one with the full bars, found a local guy who'll weld it up for me for $250. Knowing how pressed for time I am (and that I don't own any welding equipment and really don't know how to weld beyond mere functionality), that seems hard to beat.

 

That's a steal. I paid like $700 to get mine welded and it was just the base bumper.

 

The clear driving lights came with the bumper kit. I'm not sure what manufacturer/model they are, but they are high quality and really help light things up at night. I'm also running the 90W/100 high powered Osram halogen headlights. The clear pods are connected to the factory fog light harness and switched on the stalk.

The new pods I just added are these: Lasfit 18W SAE Fog Lights
There are some clearance issues with these inside the bumper which makes it difficult to aim them and get them near flush with the bumper face. I'm going to remove them and drill new mount holes in the base of the pod light brackets to hopefully position them better. The depth of the fog lights create some fitment issues with the internal bumper structure and if I had it to do over again I'd probably find some that have a smaller footprint. I got the clear fog lights and added some yellow Laminex film.

I had the bumper welded by a body shop while rebuilding my front end after an accident and the owner said in hindsight he'd never weld together one of these kits again. I think he assumed it would come in like 4 or 5 pieces and could be done a couple hours but took him waaay longer than that. $250 sounds like a good deal to me.

 

Awesome, I can't wait. I told my wife that, as our sole breadwinner in the house, she should look at this as investment protection

Yeah, I even made sure to send the guy the pic of what comes in the kit and linked him to the website, videos, etc. I asked him to quote me for welding it together with all welds ground down purty ready for painting. He was like, "that'll take me 4 hours, probably less, $250."

 

Yeah definitely not that easy, it took my welder at least two hours to fully weld and grind everything down. And it took me probably 12 hours to mount and tack everything as close to perfection as possible

 

He's going to regret that.

 

So did you get it to work?