What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Inside space is 7", but I used it to remove and reinstall no problem. Should've taken pics when I did the ucas. I tried what @assassin10000 just suggested, but was worried I was putting too much strain on the other components. Taking the knuckle off was the trick. You're halfway there already.

 

That was my concern as well. Was my exact train of thought and why I unbolted the brake/sensor clamp from the base of the knuckle. I was wary of tilting out too much, and ultimately was running out of time. Bill is right - Saturday was the wrong day, but when you've got kids and no shop or lift, you take any opportunity you can get where you know you'll have mostly-uninterrupted hours on end to work.

 

Not to mention you're sick, always a bad omen. Been there, jacked stuff up lol.

 

I wish I lived near @shifty` I’d loan him a spare anytime.

Do we need to start a go fund me for @empty_lord ’s door paint? It’s been a while Dan. Have you no self respect?

 

Body shop is a hot mess. Winter time it’s getting fixed. Dudes been short staffed and cursed with backordered parts for months

 

I think most people call it Teenage Wasteland haha

 

Sorry she wasn't having it yesterday. Think you made the right call buttoning her up. My HF kit didn't have what I needed to do the uppers, so through researching this site I ordered another set of cups on scamazon. Got her all apart and of course that set didn't do the trick either. My buddy and I had to fabricate our own cups. I pulled the entire spindle and did it in a press. Is your problem the cups, or not enough space to get your stuff in there?

 

I think it was a little of column A, little of column B, @txagg but I agree 100% with taking off the knuckle.

@shifty` I finally found the video that helped me find the correct combo. I still had to Frankenstein it a bit, given the kit i had, but this at least gave me confidence it could be done lol.

https://youtu.be/l3SJwitttwo

Around 8:45 is where it starts...don't I wish I could've pulled the knuckle out that far!

 

There's not a lot of cups and pucks in my kit, but I've always had what I needed for every other job. I found a cup/dish combo that works with this just the same, but if I put the - let's call it the 'receiver' cup - under the hole in the knuckle, next to where the sensor bracket bolts on, angle was awkward and it kept slipping up the outer edge of the rim of the knuckle, like the cup was 1-2mm too large in diameter, and fitment was waaaay tight for the threaded spindle.

If I flipped things over, I could finagle the brake lines and bracket away enough to get onto things, but without an extra pair of hands, there's no way in hell I could manage to line everything up, and even then, my ability to safely torque on it with it behind the caliper would've been near impossible w/o extra hands. No way in hell I was getting my impact back there.

All in all, I think the answer is ultimately to remove the knuckle. I just had no intent, nor had I planned, to do that. Live and learn to fight another day. I'm also realizing with how Toytec set these coilovers, I'm definitely going to need an extra inch of lift out back. It looks like, on side-by-side with OEM, they're probably going to have me sitting around 2-1/4" higher up front. So - again - good info to walk away with.

 

I wish I could remember how we did my UBJ when me and some TW friends installed my toytecs and SPCs. I'm pretty sure we just bashed em with a sledge hammer

I've heard of people using a pickle fork (what ever the fuck that is) or a wedge.

 

One reason I like SPC UCAs (well, once you have them installed) is removal of their UBJs is much easier than stock. I had to replace one of my SPC UBJs and bought a new pair for around $140 and they also came with new nuts, cotter pins, zerks etc.

I removed my stock UBJs without taking the spindle off the truck, but that was forever ago.

 

I used a pickle fork to separate UBJ from UCA. I have a 3-fork kit that's invaluable for separating arms and joints. Unfortunately, I expected a solid tap or three on the UBJ spindle with the crown nut installed would be enough to drop it out of the UCA, but I just ended up damaging the crown nut (hence the need to run to dealership) and got nowhere. It took quite a bit of fork action to get the f'er out of there.

 

Oh I gotcha, I thought you had the full kit with the leafs too, that's the kit what I'm waiting for. I know when I did the front with the OME 2884 Bilstein 5100 combo and new 5100' in the back it got me to 23" all around. Pretty sure I got more than the 1.75" of lift spec'd.

 

I picked up parts separately. Got the CO from Toytec @ $850 with a diff drop kit I'll never use. Bought Bilstein 5100s for out back. Inherited the SuspensionMaxx extended links from a kind soul. Got the SPC UCA as Bilstein-branded product in the mid-upper $500s on a killer deal.

Original intent was to get the CO installed, crank them all the way down, see how much I'm squatting after a week, and decide what to drop out back to give me a good solid 2" lift up front with a little rake. I'm suspecting that's going to be a 1.5" AAL, but ... we'll see.

Oh and @DJenerated here's my pickle fork kit, recognize what they are now? I'm obviously not separating TRE much. You can see how much that post is mushroomed, should give you an idea how much it's been pounded on separating shit over the years The forks are swappable.

​

 

Damn, that is a great deal on those spcs! I took my diff drop out, too. Tried it out just to see what everything looked like and didn't like the angle of the shaft to transfer case. I don't plan to go over 3" anyway. Great job on saving money, overall!

Speaking of plans, my plan to install solo's lcas and beef up the lbj/spindles to 04-06 has taken a step back. With solo pushing the lbj out 1", I read something about it possibly increasing the chance for the cv to bind... no thanks...I guess I could get the extended cvs from cvj, but hot damn does that add to the budget lol.

 

The solo lca’s push the lbj forward an inch, not out. Increases caster and adding clearance for larger tires. Still won’t clear 35’s without additional cutting and welding.

 

I'd say run the big spindles, Solos, and LBJs. @Casper421 and a few others are running Solos without major CV problems. Extended CVs from CVJ are just OEM remans with high angle boot. Parts store "extended" axles are weaker than OEM axles. You can re-boot your OEM axles with a high-angle boot from CVJ themselves or get a Porsche 930 boot and modify it. The high-angle boots don't stop the joint from binding, but you can combat potential damage by smart driving. A big thing would be don't make sharp turns on solid rock/ high traction surfaces especially in 4-LO. If the outboard CV joint breaks from binding, then you can remove the shaft from the inboard joint at the diff, and the truck is okay to drive in 2WD as if nothing ever happened.

For serious wheeling weekends, it's a good practice to keep a CV for replacement but that's just my opinion and experience.

 

Thanks for the correction @Casper421 and I'll be sticking w/ 33's once i get to that stage. That goes a long way if you're running the lcas without much worry. 10/10, would do again?

@des2mtn that's right the axle itself isnt longer, duh by me...and yeah no crazy turns in 4-lo, been wheeling a while. I'm thinking I'm back!

$1800 toytec kit
$1300 lcas
$1300 knuckles
$300ish in LBJs (just guessing)
$2500-$3000 wheels/tires
= my wife hates me

 

If you’re asking if I would do the solo arms again, no. They were part of the attempt to run 35’s with only ~2.5” of lift and no firewall tub. 35’s will fit but only in a parking lot. Was able to get 6.5* of caster but the tires would rub the fenders and fold them like a taco. @des2mtn witnessed that in person in Sedona. If you’re sticking with 33’s or 34’s(285/75r17’s), save the cash and run stock lowers. I wheeled 34’s for 3+ years on stock lowers with a lot of trimming but I could fully stuff them without issue.

 

Exactly what I was wondering, thanks! Maybe I still use the later model, stock, lca...assuming it still mounts to the frame in the same way as mine. Saving $700 would be very welcome.

 

Good deal on some 35's @DJenerated

https://www.bbwheelsonline.com/bf-goodrich-all-terrain-ta-ko2-tires-315-70r17-113/110s-rbl-08884/

 

Gotta find him some 17's.

 

They should bolt right up to the frame mounts.

 

Ko2’s are the most overrated tires I’ve ever run.

 

You too @Frenchy

 

They did pretty good off road, but wore like shit and started dry rotting and leaking thru the tread. I’d only run them if someone gave them to me

 

I know you run them, like them and you wheel the shit out of em but my experience was in Truckee. They absolutely suck in wet, icy and snowy conditions. I’m aware most don’t see those types of driving but I wouldn’t consider them “all terrains” if they suck when it rains out, let alone in snow. Just my personal experience. I ran destination at’s on my 4Runner for a little and they did better in those conditions. My old cooper st maxx’s did great all around, even in slush and snow. These at3’s haven’t really gotten a lot of miles and can’t say how they hold up. Hopefully that’ll change come fall.

 

Had some BFG Mud terrains on an F150 for about 45k miles and they were awesome. A little slick in the rain. Sold it at that time, but they still had plenty of meat. The Raptor had 35 BFG AT's, and they had no problems in the wet like the muds did. Only put 10k miles on them though, so can't comment to their longevity. These days I'm more of a Bitchelin defender kind of guy myself. Have some General AT's on the pro 4x, they are kind of loud and only 4k miles so not much to report.

 

That's a really good deal on those.

I'm thinking a set of 5 of these 35x10.5r17 and these 17's and these center caps

 

There's one reason for that overrating... two words, first word = Ford