What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

#lifehack #itsnotweirdifitworks

 

Shit can still be weird.
A buddy at work claims his dad would spray WD40 all over his hands for arthritis and soak his knee brace in it to help…….

 

but did it actually work?

 

Supposedly

 

https://youtu.be/gm-kx7QU-BI

 

You stripped it down that far in 9 hours? Damn dude...

 

Is there anything unique about the connector for the alternator? When I was removing the old alternator I squeezed the connector and felt a pop. I thought the old plastic broke. After looking at it, there is a plastic flap that moves back and forth. Is that supposed to lock in place? It feels secure. I connected it to the new alternator plug and tugged on it. It didn't budge. Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something.

 

Easy to replace via de-pin and re-pin. Worth doing I’d say. Accessible too. Corsa has the oval female I believe, the square 4 way I forget but I think that too. The males are less common but wouldn’t be needed.

 

@FirstGenVol - sounds like a locking tab on the connector broke. Unfortunately these plastic parts get brittle over time. Toyota does sell replacement connector shells if you have the skill to re-pin the wires into the new connector.

 

Yeah I initially thought it broke but seems to toggle back and forth. Maybe I just need to lock it back. Truck is running fine but I don't need it to pop loose while driving.

 

2 hrs to pull the cab. My come along broke, loading it on the trailer took longer with ratchet straps lol

 

hot glue a seat to it & hoon.

 

Taking apart is fast. It's putting it back together that sucks.

It pleases me, someone on here actually knows the reference. I do my part / behind the lines / swabbing door handles of cop cars / with DMSO mixed with LSD

Good on ya bro. Wasn't my favorite album, but there were a few gems on there. Moon Over Marin will always hold a special spot in my brain. (Edit: Just realized ... Moon Over Marin isn't on this album, but at least it has Chickenshit Conformist on it)

 

So it turns out that the vibration I've recently developed is my rear U-joint (the one on the slip yoke). No big deal, except that I've replaced them twice already!

- 1st time ~ 3 years ago. The original joint failed after ~ 220,000 mi. Now here's the thing (don't hate on me...) I used AutoZone parts. Guilty with explanation, you honor. I ordered the correct Dana/Spicer parts from Rock Auto, but the wrong parts were in the right box (you wouldn't believe the hassle and BS I got from RA trying to return them). Now my drive line is in pieces strewn across my garage, so I ran out to the nearest AutoZone to get some Duratrash parts.

- 2nd time ~ 2 years ago (now 234,000 mi). I was not surprised when the AutoZone part failed after ~ 1 year/~ 10,000 miles. In fact, I had the correct Spicer parts laying around from the Rock Auto return.

- Now ~244,000 mi. The Spicer joint from Rock Auto has begun to fail (lots of "slop"), hence the vibration. Hmm...although Spicer is purported to be the OEM supplier, the parts didn't look quite like the originals. It's been ~ 20 years after all, so who knows...maybe they improved the design. They measured up exactly, so who am I to question?

I just ordered the OEM part from McGeorge, which does seem to look like original I removed years ago. $80!!

Hopefully this will be the last time. Film at 11:00...

 

Yeah I saw your post and almost posted it then. But when I saw another post about wd40 and arthritis, I had to haha.
I agree, it's definitely not their best album, but has some bangers. Moon Over Marin is indeed one of those bangers.

 

I'm pretty shocked RA gave you beef. Did you get it resolved?

Also surprised to hear something from Spicer (/Dana) failed. With other auto brands, I typically choose them over OEM.

Fail didn't have anything to do with something you are or aren't doing during install?

 

Hey you guys! Anybody been wanting poly body mount bushings? I suggested our trucks to Energy Suspension and they emailed me back telling me to get more 1GT's to send the suggestion and we just might get em made.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/suggestapart.asp?vehicle=11657

 

Tagging @alb1k wasn't it you who also wanted this, or am I f'n nuts?

 

I added the link too

 

so there i was balls deep in a jar of peanut butter...

 

Yes, RA ultimately accepted my return, but not until they took the wrong parts out of the right box and measured them (and no doubt had to convince Spicer of the same).

I'm pretty good at installing u-joints at this point (dozens over the years), so I'm not inclined suspect operator error (although it has crossed my mind). I have a u-joint press kit (kinda like a big ass C-clamp), so it's not like I'm recklessly banging on it with BFH. When I get the slip yoke out I'm going to measure it up very carefully.

 

How difficult are they to replace? Mine are still original as far as I know.

 

ChrisFix evokes love/hate reactions...but this video covers the bases in an easy teenage sorta way. There are literally dozens of YouTubes on the subject.

 

Super easy, unless one of the caps mushes and binds to the ear like mine did. Had to burn through a couple discs on my Dremel to get it out...not a fun time.

All you need is a hammer (or a bench vise, my preferred method when I had one), a block of wood or something to support the driveline, a socket bigger than the cap and one the same size.

Assuming driveline out, cap clips out, and on ground... support driveline on block, put big socket on ground line it up with UJ cap, put smaller socket on other end, tap with hammer until you can pull the cap off. Flip it over, do it again.

 

I think I may do this since Denso is no long remanufacturing them.

Check this out. I'd say this was due. Other than the brush what else am I supposed to replace?

 

Usually it's just bearings/brushes/regulator.

 

Get the part number off the old alternator. Hit Google. Search "PART# rebuild kit" and you should be able to track down a kit. Easiest way.

 

Last alternator I did was a Surf in Northern Japan. Auto Parts stores there are really weird. They can’t find anything without the title (source of VIN). If you have that, they can order every nut and bolt on a Toyota. They had an alternator rebuild kit which I think was bearings and brushes.

 

Put the rear end up on jacks and checked that the rear brakes were still engaging like they should. They do. Just can’t come up with a reason why my brakes went from tight to loose in a few days after bleeding.

 

While up on jacks test the parking brake? Get it into reverse and hammer the p brake on/off see if it adjusts. I had to set mine by hand, then wait for the lsd to cool & free up, then set it to stop on the same click with the tires on. Took a few adjustments, but was repeatable.