2005 Tundra rear differential issue

Hello.

I'd appreciate some guidance on diagnosing and fixing my 2005 Tundra V8 4x4 single cab. I'm not very mechanical so please bear with me. There's a couple things that I have started to notice over the last two months with my truck that I'd like to get fixed before causing more damage. When I am driving/accelerating I get a whining noise coming from the truck. Another symptom I noticed is when after the truck is warm when I turn at slow speeds I will get a binding noise and the truck will jerk a bit (turning and backing into parking spaces is the worst). When I got under my truck to take a look I noticed the rear differential is leaking fluid and I suspect that this is probably the cause. I had the truck in a shop to be inspected and asked them to drain and fill the rear dif but they were afraid to touch it because it's deteriorated and didn't want to crack the rear dif plate.

Here's a picture of the rear dif plate, it's fairly rusted and caked/leaking oil.

Is there anything simple I could check here or should I just take it to a shop that specializes in rear differentials? I did have the transmission re-built less than 25k miles ago if this matters. That same shop also specializes in differentials so I will likely take it there if needed.



I would be willing to try to get the fill plug out and worst case if it breaks I can have it towed to a shop. But I'm not sure if it would be worth it if the end result is taking it to a shop anyways.

I hate to sell this truck or get rid of it. It has the newer frame, a rebuilt transmission and only 145k miles on it. Any guidance would be very appreciated.

Adam

 

You're not the first person with this problem. Dorman makes a weld on replacement cover that others have successfully used to repair their rusty diffs, if the rest is structurally sound. Ymmv

 

You’re gonna need a new pumpkin cover.

 

I would find a local 4x4 ship to address the issues.

Will service the diff and weld on a new cover.

The binding could certainly be in the rear diff.

Could it be in 4wd?

If that’s the only issue with the truck you’re golden at that mileage!

These first gens with good frames have already started to Appreciate.

 

Thanks for all the replies! I would like to try and diagnose the noise if possible. I am thinking if I were to remove the breather and add some good quality diff fluid the noise and symptoms might go away. Then I'd feel better about having the cover replaced. Does this sound like a decent idea to try to find out root cause? Anything I should know about doing this? I'll go grab a new breather so I dont need to put the old one back on. Any recommendations on the product/oil I should use?

 

If you’re unable to repair the rear diff I wouldn’t mess with the cover. It’s going to fall apart and leak.

The truck is well worth the repair whether you keep it or sell it.

pulling the cover would at best be a waste of fluid to fill it and take it somewhere to fix.

IF you’re grinding/binding is the rear diff cause by low fluid it will need replaced anyway. The damage will have been done. There’s a TON of rear ends available used and or a good 4x4 shop can rebuild yours better and cheaper.

Good luck either way

 

Thanks, fair enough. I scheduled an appointment to have it looked at at a shop the specializes in differentials.

 

Good luck! Keep us posted.

 

If it's not leaking, scrub away all the loose flaky rust with a wire brush, apply rust converter, then POR-15 (I prefer Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, but it's all the same more or less).

If it IS leaking, then glom some JB Weld onto the leaky spots, then one or two more coats of POR-15.

That should buy you the time to find someone to weld on a new cover, or maybe find another complete axle somewhere

 

But wear gloves at all time. If that stuff gets on your skin it WILL NOT come off naturally.

Oh, and @xzclusiv3 you may want to read the first couple replies of this thread before you sink any money. It will help you with rear axle sizing between the cab types, rust related topics, etc.

 

Where does it sound like the whining is coming from? Is it only when the truck is in motion or can you replicate the noise when you rev the engine while stationary? What do the u joints look like, can you take a picture?

What about the front end/cv joints and steering rack? What sort of condition are they in?

 

Shop is going to swap with a used for ~$2500. Should be back on the road soon! thanks for the help and information.

 

Damn that's a lotta money Glad to see you're getting it dealt with. When you pickup, small bit of advice: Double-confirm the emergency brake works. Not only that it sets and holds the truck, but IIRC, you should see the (BRAKE) light on in the cluster when set (although that may be tied to a pedal sensor)