NO DRILL ROOF RACK BY SPIDER NO DRILL ROOF RACK!

The cab at the highest point seems to be the rear near the brake light. I have a double cab so it may be different in measurements vs a crew max. The 3 pictures start at the rear and move forward. I took a straight edge and laid it on top of the side panels going across from left to right. Measurements are at the center of the cab. Looks like 2.5" at the rear, 2" inches in the middle and 2.5" at the front.

 

Thank you sir, most appreciated!

 

Apologies...having trouble with the pix doubling up in the post

 

I thought long and hard to buy this rack and weighed all the options. I finally pulled the trigger about 3 months ago. I haven't put any load on it yet as it is winter here and just stupid freezing with another snow storm on the way. My truck is almost my daily driver and have it on the highway to and from work. My biggest concern was the epoxy but I'm glad to say that it looks like it will be just fine. I'm very happy with this purchase and plan to set up a ROAM box, Waterport and maybe something else on it. I'll do a shake down test on a green trail hopefully soon. A few things to note if/when you buy this rack...

1. Tiger was quick to answer all my questions and it was great to speak/text him.
2. The Devcon 2 ton epoxy is no joke and for those who buy this rack, you have about an 8 - 12 minute working time. By 8 mins, it starts to set. If you've never worked with epoxy, get a lint free towel or shop towels and soak it with alcohol to wipe up the excess. I bought extra epoxy online cuz I went back and created "fillets" to fill in the gaps on the sides/edges. You should definitely watch the video of him installing it as you'll notice how much epoxy he used in the drip well. You can tell he used quite a bit to put in the bottom of the drip well but not as much filling in the edges (at time point 1:43). I attached pix of my blocks with the "fillets" I added afterwards.
3. Test fit your blocks. I found that with my 2016 DC, the passenger side drip well was about a solid 1mm wider and the blocks would not work on that side. I was able to lay the blocks into the drip well all the way and then slide them front to back which was not good. I called Tiger and he was happy to resolve the issue and sent me 3 blocks which were wider that he had...all worked fine when I installed them. I'll include some pix of the blocks that were not wide enough compared to the one that were.
4. I purchased larger washers. Same inner diameter but a larger outer diameter and I also bought lock washers just because.
5. Use red lock tite for the mounting blocks
6. I'm using blue lock tite for the crossbars.
7. My front blocks are approx 6 and 5/16" from the start of the drip well.

I'll update this if I think of anything else...

 

I've been rocking spiders' rack for a year now! mounts are still solid and road noise is pretty minimal, I'd recommend the rubber attachment for the bottom of the shield though.

 

@Drainbung Did you figure out if it would fit with your 4WC? I believe you have a Raven?

I have a 4WC Raven on order and thought this might a good idea as well. Also, thought Spider might be able to offer a taller/longer front wind deflector that would be higher than the roof-to-camper gap? I've read a lot of 4WC owners put roof racks on solely for that purpose of decreasing wind drag/noise from the gap...

 

Yes it will, I have 3-3.5" clearance on my Granby, my truck is a '19 DCLB. I had an FWC Eagle on my Tacoma and added a Yakima rack with fairing to the OEM rack and it definitely helped with noise and bit with mileage. I don't have any noise issues currently but I'm trying to eek out whatever mileage improvement I can.

Good luck with your Raven, you'll love it! We just went to the 50th Anniversary Rally in SoCal, good time for sure.

 

@Drainbung Thank you sir! I think I will wait till I get the Raven before I go forward. I will keep it on the truck full time. After looking over your camper and the above clearances, any insight on installing the rack while your camper is installed?

 

No problem, happy to share info. I leave my camper on year round as well. Unfortunately after watching Spider's install video I don't think there's any way to install the rack without pulling the camper. Once you do it a couple times it's not that bad. Just remember to disconnect the power cable, don't ask how I know that

 

Here are some photos where unfortunately the passenger side drip well was apparently approx 1mm wider than the driver's side. 1st photo is the passenger side where you can see the mount almost dropping in, whereas the second photo on the driver's side where the mount is at a higher angle. On the driver's side, it took like 3 hits with an armorer's mallet to hammer them in each. Like I mentioned above, after many measurements and speaking/texting Tiger on the phone, he was happy to send me new blocks which were wider and all worked out well.

On another note, if your blocks have a hole drilled all the way through to the bottom and out the other end (3rd picture), be careful...with the epoxy in the drip well...when I hammered it in, the epoxy shot up through the hole. I had to find a pipe cleaner and soaked it with alcohol and swab the threads to dissolve the epoxy.

 

What size light bar are you running on the spider rack?

 

For anyone finding this thread...their domain changed to:

https://www.spiderroofrack.com/

The linked domain in the OP will take you to "nice" site that wants to do all sorts of nefarious things to your system.

 

anal?

 

YMMV...bunch of popups and closed before finding out.

 

very cool. might have to do this for my hangglider.