Let's talk about Payload. How many of you exceed it?

With my Tundra (sorry, 2nd gen):
I've towed the same trailer around 6800# with both D rated tires and now with P rated tires. My experience was that properly setting the WDH had far more impact on stability than tire selection. I honestly didn't even notice the difference in tires.

I do have 20" wheels if that factors into sidewall stability.

 

Answer: As much as I can put in the bed and TT,right?

 

1/2 ton is good for tow or haul, just not tow and haul at the same time

 

This. I'm a huge advocate of using a CAT scale to get the front axle weight back up. I'm within 100lbs.

 

Follow up thought:
I see trucks all the time with the front suspension obviously underloaded when towing, even with a wdh. I think there are many that slap it on and call it done. Might as well not use one if you aren't going to adjust it.

 

100% this.
Need to get front axle as close as possible to unloaded front axle weight. For my Platinum that’s ~3500 lbs.

 

My truck is also 3500lbs with me sitting in the driver's seat and 3/4 tank of gas.

I got it to 3400 lbs with the trailer on. WDH bars are a chore to install at that tension.

 

7700-4100= 3600 front axle weight

 

I towed a 10,000 LBS travel trailer around British Columbia for 8 years with 2012 Tundra and I honesty thought it towed it better than my 2010 F350 Cabela Version. The prior Dodge V10 Kicked the other 2's ass

 

What I like to do is keep the tongue jack down and that makes installing the load bars easier.

Your truck is TRD Pro? Hybrid is heavier so you could probably install a heavier duty load bar or set your load bar to the next setting.

 

Correct. I’ve got a new WDH for the new trailer that’s much more adjustable.

 

I find i have to reverse the jack once the ball is locked in the coupler and bring the back end of the truck up an inch or two.

I would say that means I am too tight, but the CAT scale doesn't lie.

 

That doesn't seem to far out of the asinine stuff Ford has done in the past.

 

Now that i have experience going from P tires, to E, back to P. I now firmly believe E rated tires are far more enjoyable to have on the truck.

P rated stock tires can physically handle the loads a tundra should haul, however they are much closer to their max capacity than an E rated is, so the driving experience is spongy and uncomfortable. E rated tires feel solid in turns, and solid when loaded down

 

Are you on 18s or 20s ?

I also air the rears up to max pressure according to the sidewall when I tow. (50 psi on my Yokohama G015s)

I'm going to try 40 psi in the rear this weekend and see how it does.

I'm not a fan of LT rated tires on my tundra after the vibration issues I was having with LR D BFGs. The problem went away with P rated tires and new steering rack bushings. (I tried some new, load E Michelin AT2s and the vibration got even worse, really bad shake in the wheel at 60mph+)

 

Yeah this is exactly what I do. Lift the rear up by lowering the jack foot. I find this is only needed for the heavier trailers. I think it would be easier if I had some 1200 or 1400 lb bars.

 

I don't really have to do it when I hook up my trailer at home because my truck is nose down in the gutter anyway, but I definitely need the extra height when hitching on level ground. Not even sure I could get the bars on if I were in a dip - i'd probably have to move it first.

I use the hook/pry tool that came with my hitch to pop them in. Husky Centerline has retaining bosses you have to get up an over on the L brackets. Nice feature, but it adds another 1/2 inch to the muscle required to pop them in.

 

im on 18s. I air them up when towing. 50 seems too high, i do 45psi now

Ive never had any kind of vibrations with e rated tires, however i was on stiffer lift springs though too, now im back to stock.


The e rated tires hold tighter in corners, i dont know if this is good or bad from a traction standpoint, but the p rated feel wallowy in corners

 

According to my weight, 50psi is too high. I'm backing that off now. I'm also on 20s with a TRD sway bar. No spongy feeling.

 

ive got the front and rear trd rear sway too, something isnt right though my handling feels jerky and wallowy. Alignment is good too

 

I need air bags. What did you go with? Cost? Who installed? Thanks.

 

Take a look at sumo springs. They are support for the rear springs with no fuss. I'm happy with the ride quality unloaded all the way up to max payload.

 

This doesn't seem any different than 2nd gen discussion?

Make sure the trailer brakes are calibrated.

And to add to what someone else said ... sure, it can tow a lot, as long as you don't need any tongue weight! Toyota marketing is almost a blatant lie...

 

What’s the size of your trailer? Did you go with the blue or black SumoSprings?

 

7000#
Black

 

How does the truck ride with the black sumos when not pulling your trailer? I’m trying to figure out whether blue or black would be best as I tow a 28’ travel trailer that’s 7000 lbs loaded. SSI suggested blue may be best as I don’t pull the trailer all the time but I appreciate the real world experience of other folks.

 

I’d love to hear that evaluation too.

 

My truck had a fiberglass cap on it when I installed my sumo springs. So +250lbs on the rear axle. I did not notice any change in ride quality after I put them on. At rest, the sumo springs lightly contacted the frame.

I sold the cap and I've noticed my ride is a little rougher without it. I do not know if it is the sumo springs or just leaf springs being leaf springs. There is a little gap between my sumo springs and the frame now. There is absolutely no way you will feel the springs contact the frame. They are progressive rate so there is little difference between no contact and slight compression.

Overall, I am happy with the ride. It feels like a truck.

Edit: Arent third gens coil sprung? Does this even matter to you fellas?