New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

Riding back with the tool:

Removed from dash

Good thing I went this far with it because there was a disgusting rats nest right on the evaporator


Evaporator and expansion valve

 

I also noticed the last couple days it's been raining really hard and I had a small puddle of water on my passenger side floor mat. When I removed the evaporator box from the blower motor box I found where the water was coming from.... But I can't see and further back than this...

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/definitive-2000-2006-cab-area-rain-water-leak-thread.70464/

 

Awesome!!!!

 

Ahh so that’s where the TXV is

 

Thermal eXpansion Valve.

 

Does the air compressor take 7.75floz of oil?
Also do I just pour all the oil in the compressor or do I pour it in elsewhere? Thanks


8oz bottle

 

Thanks to Turbodb and his write ups on the ac systems for Toyotas at: https://adventuretaco.com/guide/rep...-a-5vzfe-tacoma-tundra-4runner/#comment-19553
He recommended using a syringe to put specific amounts of oil into each component.

 

Got the truck put together and started it up for the first time. Truck is running shitty and it threw a code 120 throttle position sensor
I think something went haywire when I had the intake off and decided to pressure wash the throttle body. Maybe I shouldn't have done that... Going to the junk yard tomorrow to get a new TPS sensor

 

Yeah, it’s a sensitive part. They don’t even like the cleaning spray applied directly to them. The liquid can seep into the electronics through the shaft the butterfly sits on.

 

I want to say there's a specific process required to re-calibrate the thing any time something is done to it? But I'm not deep enough in the caffeine to remember at the moment ...

 

Went to the junk yard and got these two parts



Going to first try just the TPS

 

Okay swapping the TPS changed nothing...
Still has a high idle and a stumble when you press the throttle....
Could it be the idle air control valve?

 

I'm wondering if these two hoses are connected to the right ports or do I need to swap them around?





Dam! Never mind, that's a coolant line not a vacuum line....

 

I guess my only option at this point is remove the throttle body and change out the idle air bypass valve...

 

When I cleaned my throttle body I had the same problem with high idle ~ 2000 rpm). I was freaking out because the TPS is not replaceable in my year, so I was thinking I needed a whole new throttle body. Turns out the ECU just needs to re-learn. The learning is a function of the number of start/stop/drive cycles (I don't recall the specifics, but the answer is here on this site somewhere). After a day or two my idle dropped back to ~700 rpm.

 

This for sure. Drive it a few cycles to let it relearn

 

This exact thing happened with someone recently (V8 driver) and we were all left stumped after a dozen suggestions. Everyone glossed over the "cleaned the TB" part. He'd start it up and it wouldn't run. I can't find the thread at the moment, but was within the last 90 days or so. IIRC, once he got 50-100 miles on it, things went back to normal. I'm not sure it's the case here, but it surely adds credence to the last couple of replies.

 

Thanks guys yeah I cleaned the throttle body with cleaner spray and then pressure washed it inside and out... Did you guys get a check engine light and a trouble code like mine?

 

Went to the junk yard got a new TPS sensor and IACV idle air control valve. Cleaned up the IACV with throttle body cleaner and got it free moving smooth. I cleaned and oiled the throttle body. I got some MAF sensor cleaner and cleaned the MAF. I left the battery unplugged over night. This morning I put everything back together and the idle is now very low (≥500)
The TPS fault code is clear. But the engine is running very rough and I got 5 new codes. P0300, P03001, P03004, P03003, P03006

 

Maybe sometimes it wants to identify as a harley. Any signs of corrosion on any of the coil plugs?

 

I put new spark plugs in it I don't understand what's going on with it

 

Things to do:

• Check your work to ensure a vacuum hose wasn’t left off or a sensor or harness unplugged, or not sealed.
• Undo your recent round of fix-ums.
  
• Retest

 

How many codes did you have after swapping the TPS Yesterday, did you give it time to relearn like others have suggested.

 

I checked the firing order, the plugs, hoses everything. Ever since I changed the timing belt there's been issues with the motor not running correctly but I don't understand I put the motor at TDC, removed the belt, never spun the motor or moved the positioning and reinstalled the belt in the same spot it stopped at. I'm baffled

 

TDC happens twice for each cycle.

 

It seems like things definitely got worse once you added junkyard parts into the mix. That throttle body might be no good.

 

Yesterday the engine ran like shit and idles at 2000+rpm and the only code was tps fault

Today the idle is low (under 500rpm) , the engine runs like shit and the p0300 codes appeared no more TPS fault

 

I found the TDC the way everyone explained. Top the cams and top the crank.
Besides, what difference does it make when the motor never moves from it's position and the belt is installed in the same spot it came off of?

 

The throttle body was fine before the timing belt swap