New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

Yes I'm noticing this... The passenger side is set nice but the drivers side is positive camber (the top of the tire sticks out further than the bottom.)
I need to move the driver's side eccentric to match the passenger side ....



https://youtu.be/oH7x7d83TQc

 

I’ve wirebrushed mine with die grinder, wire wheel and air compressor before applying the POR-15 degreaser, prep and 2 coats of POR-15 semi-gloss paint. It’s worked well and only began flaking after 8 years of salt/brine abuse.

Yours look like they need sand/media blasting first to clean up the rust.

 

take it to an alignment shop, it's going to save you money on tires. next time use a marker and mark where the bolt sit.

 

Moving slowly on the timing belt and valve cover. Lots of rusty bolts. The alternator adjuster was siezed and so was the alternator itself. Having to clean and dress all the bolts. Going to do the tare-down then make a trip to the junk yard to get all the replacement parts that failed...

 

Nothing a 3-4 hour soak in Krud Kutter wouldn't solve.

 

The bracket is bent, the bolt is bent and siezed...

 

"Just the tip"

 

Like new

 

This is where I'm at with the 3.4:
I'm about to remove the old belt, gears and seals.
I have the crank lined up with the mark and this is where the cams landed...
So my question: is the motor at TDC on the compression stroke? Is that necessary for it to be on the compression stroke? Everyone I've heard for this motor and job just says line the 3 marks together... Am I good here or what?
2nd is, are the cams off one cog or is the belt stretched what's the deal here?

 

Compression cycle is the TDC, Find TDC have to look at the intake and exhaust valve, when piston going up, both should stay close.
If it’s still show the same, maybe the guy before install it wrong, off a tooth is not end of the day, just put it back on the mark.

 

Gettn to the cam and crank seals

 

Look at all the extra room in there! For activities!

 

Fun facts
Audi A4 you have to take the whole front end off to do a timing belt…

 

Double din w/Bluetooth OBD reader

 

OMG it's a stick shift...

 

Sr5 decal.... On the fence about it

 

When doing the valve covers, are you guys putting rtv on the cam plug?



And why did Toyota put this bracket on back here? What does it do?

 

I dont know if there are different 'grades' of the toyota FIPG, but i'm pretty sure thats what people use.

 

Be careful leaving the reader plugged in all the time. Two main issues reported by others:

1. Parasitic drain: There's a constant-hot lead on OBDII
2. Bizarre CELs and other gremlin-like behavior

Doesn't seem to be model-specific, but has been reported here a few times now. Dead batteries in the AM, tied back to the unit. Check engine light with weird codes, all disappears when dongle is removed. YMMV, just seeding this in case you encounter the same.

 

Thankyou for the heads up

 

Moving along
Put in new cam and crank seals.
The tensioner pulley was bad and the tensioner arm was siezed up. Good thing I did the timing belt.








It got dark

 

I can't wait to drive this truck

Only got to drive it once the drive straight home from purchase.

 

It should feel faster, if the timing was wrong b4

 

That truck has the best security system in America; 5-speed/3-pedal millennial anti-theft device!

Fun fact: I'm one of those rare millennials who can drive a stick shift!

 

Yes it appeared to be one cog out of place.
I also found 3 cracked vacuum hoses which were for sure leaking.

 

If I put the transfer case in neutral that would blow their minds

 

Made a trip to the scrap heap and grabbed a new alternator and brackets

 

You gonna go ahead and swap in new brushes etc. while you've got it out?

 

Okay all done. All I have to do now is install the new AC system

 

Don't have time. Have to send it.