1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

It's different when you don't have a passenger. Or even when you do, but they aren't obedient lol. I used to drive with my windows cracked (2 full cranks) all the time because my A/C sucked and I was a smoker. Damn near every passenger I had would either want their window up while driving or would roll it up when they got out of the truck. Which pissed me off to no end, having to lean over and fix it everytime I dropped someone off. No matter how many times I told em not to.

 

Manual steering, non boosted brakes, windows with a crank and a clutch may seem to be too much trouble... ever had to split shift a two speed vacuum rearend with a non-synchronized transmission? or used a vacuum shifted overdrive?

 

I don't even know what language that is lol

 

Not following what you're looking to do; are you expecting your head unit to have a remote on/off switch of some sort that you can kick on while the truck is off to power bed-based speakers? Maybe a good one to run by @daveeasa

Your owners manual has the gear oil weights you need for your specific truck. My truck, it's 75w90 recommended for the rear diff, transfer case, front diff.

If your rear end has the LSD sticker on it, avoid synthetics. Supposedly there's some magic unicorn synthetic out there that'll work for LSD rear in these trucks, but I struck out. Install non-synthetic out back to avoid chatter. I went with Lucas 80w90 and it worked great. I started w/Mobil1 full synthetic and had chatter, added loads of additive, still had some chatter; I didn't want to add more additive, didn't want excess slip. Someone else on here mentioned they used 75w90 non-synthetic Valvoline and it worked with LSD rear. Seems the synthetics don't seem to coat enough in the gen1 LSD to avoid chatter after the truck sits a bit.

For driveline: https://www.tundras.com/threads/black-hole-zerk-wtf.93630/

 

I don’t roll down the passenger side much. Just driver side and rear slider if it’s hot. In 30s the cabin is flushed and the A/C kicks in.

 

My ‘05 cabin is about 10 cubic feet of air. Maybe less. Flushes in thirty seconds.

 

It sucked so bad, you stopped smoking?

 

I just stopped smoking 6 months ago lol. I drove that truck throughout high school and college. I've bought 5 trucks since then, all with electric windows

 

What flushes?

 

The stale whore air in the cab

 

Ok now I get it. Lol

 

Probably someone will come up with something way better, but one idea could be to wire all cab speakers to “front” and your bed speakers to “rear” and then you shift your audio to rear when you want bed jams? But then your cab audio would probably suck. Or does your head unit have any additional channels that output audio (like a subwoofer channel?) you could rework to run the bed audio?

I think I’d just get a cheaper bluetooth speaker and say screw it.

 

Some kind of toggle switch not sure exactly how to wire it all up. On my last truck I had a loudspeaker under the truck for shenanigans, and just had a 3 position toggle switch on the back driver side speaker

 

Best way for @Mr.bee to run power/speaker wire is through the pressure equalization vents behind the rear seat, then route it from underneath using the 1 of the 2 forward drain holes at the back of the bed. No hole cutting other than the bedliner UNLESS he has the spray in liner which would be a no-go.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/631094/10002/-1

 

I’ve done outside speakers before. With connectors to the kick panels where my junctions are and wire through the rear window.

for a more permanent solution I’d go dual battery and bed mounted radio. But even better would just be a mobile radio and an inverter or dc charger in the bed. More multi-purpose and more jobsite mobility.

 

Excellent contribution to the discussion!

 

Seeing some interesting options on the tube of yew.
I think I may become one of those "who the F--- walls over two huge windows" former owners.
It's not like I open them.

 

that's when you switch to dealer plates - LOL

 

Last soundproof room I saw / was in was at the Museum of Modern Art in NYC, when Tundra2's daddy was probably in short pants.
It was freakishly effective & looked... well, angular. Not anything a house buyer would want to come across. Hopefully tech has changed.

 

I'm guessing manual brakes & possibly drums front & rear in 1973

Also good for minute adjustments so you can crack the window on the highway enough to get air, but not so much to get whistling.

Depends how well the date is going. ;-)

 

Zing!

 

somebody say white noise?
https://youtu.be/wULG18MXKz4

 

Yup, small deep cycle 2nd battery with a box to hold the speakers and HU, something bluetooth-capable so you can remote contol the audio into it.

 

RockAuto 5% discount code: 233736060177619741

 

Totally agreed, I just found the equivalent upgrade for my 1973 Chevy pickup. Once my initial focus on making it “go” is successful, I’ll then be working on “stop” and that looks great. I also want my kids to drive this one so stopping is a big plus.

 

Heads up on a rack for an AC if anyone wants

 

Damn, I'm looking at 60K MSRP whether I'm buying a loaded 2023 Tundra SR5 or a Ford Raptor Ranger. Need to look at the pros/cons to both.

 

Well, a big con on the ranger is the blue badge on front and back.