What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If you get halos, be sure to get the blue option with a lock out for every other color.

 

And leave them on all night no matter what? Or even in the daytime for that matter

 

yes, also lock out the off switch, my bad.

 

Halo….how are you

 

Haloelujah!
With a acrylic strip!

 

I was expecting the overall rust situation to be way worse, looks good from my couch!

 

@alb1k or maybe @Casper421 has there been a noticable difference having the shocks on the same side of the axle?

forgot who had the rear shock relocation.

 

I haven’t showed you the latest holes in the bed. I decided to take a ball peen hammer to the rust and now have quite a few gaping holes back there.

 

and wish it was about 4" longer but have no clue what to look for after @SouthPaw built them. Perhaps I bought the strips but so long ago can't remember where

 

How often do squirrel fires happen in your area?

 

They generally don’t happen at all or at least none I’ve heard about personally.

 

@FrenchToasty Heres the new bed bolts and what’s left of good metal holding them onto the bed…

 

Mine are both rear. I think the real difference came with the gears, not the shock placement

 

I don't have theses mysterious parts

 

I did build them. Those are my factory lenses retro fitted. Aftermarket plastic didn't do it for me.
I cut the part out where I walked to the truck after turning on the camera. I'm in wpp at the moment..

 

Alright guys, so after installing the 285/70/17 Wildpeaks I have some rubbing on the frame rail at full lock behind the shock tower. So I see three options:

1. move the tire toward the front using the SPC balljoint's caster change ability. I have them set at setting D currently which has 0 degrees of caster change. I have provided a picture of the sheet below for understanding.

2. Spend $300 for spacers and run the risk of having my wheel fall off going down the highway.

3. Spend hundreds of dollars on new wheels with more desirable offset and backspacing.

I had it aligned 6 months ago and the caster is sitting at 1.8 degrees for both sides.

What do you guys think?

 

What happened to the lever for your load proportioning valve? Just decided to get rid of it?

 

reduces lift of rear end - better traction maker those strategic vents in your bed floor.

 

I was thinking they were some fancy undermount LED work lights.

 

Option 4: Let it rub and forget about it. It won't hurt anything. Mine kisses the frame and I don't sweat it.

 

Then he’ll want dirty7’s and have the same issue! It’s a vicious cycle!

 

Are your lowers maxed out for caster? (Front two OEM lower alignment cams pointed inward and rear two OEM cams outwards.)


1.8 caster leads me to believe no, it isn't.

^ or this.

Well if you're gonna long travel, 35's aren't enough.

Plus he'll need glass too.

 

@Sunnier has LT with (if I'm not mistaken) 33's

 

So the 'demon eyes' are NOT the ring of lights around the projectors in @Hi06silver new setup?

 

I'm catching up, not sure if you posted a pic after this post, showing where it rubs. But I'd do "1" if you can make that change yourself. But increasing caster will move your tire forward, and the main result would be to stop it rubbing against the body mount. Is that what you call 'frame rail'?

Alternately, we hate suspension spacer hats that sit atop shocks and which may cause the shocks to collapse; we don't hate spacers that are "hub centric" and help you adjust the backspacing of your wheels to move the tire out a bit. I don't recommend you run spacers wider than about 1 1/2" because it messes with the rotational something... whatever-- weight-- not good, blah, blah. That's the gist of it. Anyway, run BORA or Spidertrax, and make sure the lugs on these and the wheels are torqued right. All good.

I vote you not buy fancy new wheels unless/until you find a set you love... or you do the geek math most of us don't quite understand, and if the result is that your wheel backspacing is never gonna work. (Sorry, I'm not motivated to do the math.)

 

Finally got around to finishing this project. Took me way too long

where it started:


Lights installed in the mirrors.




action shot:


And a video of the finished product because I’m a dork but it’s cool
https://youtube.com/shorts/LK6oYXRaghU?feature=share

Worst part was figuring out how to fish wire through the rubber seals in the door and into the cab. Feedin it through with the factory wiring was a nightmare. I ran a feeder from the overhead console (easy enough place to isolate the switched ground)down to the fuse panel as that’s where the drivers side feed comes in and then ran a feed across too the passenger side and out through the rubber grommets/ wire loom.

I’ll be doin speakers next, mine are absolutely pitiful, I knew they sound like crap, and now I know why

 

Yup, 33's. I don't see any reason to go bigger. The articulation is worth waaay more to me than the photo in the mall parking lot. I think it's lame that the back is so much more narrow than the front so I run spacers in back-- but I've gotten used to "spotting" for 4 separate tires, and I kinda appreciate the added challenge, so I've accepted that it looks goofy. And, I don't mind that the HD springs lift the bed higher than the front in between trips, so it's level and responsive when it's weighed down for trips. It's entertaining watching @DJenerated and others insist they'll run 35's-- it'll be fun to watch!