3rd Gen Suspension Lift - MEGA THREAD

did you also install the TRD knuckle?
curious what your castor setting ended up at with TRD UCA and stock knuckle

also with the 2" lift in the rear, did you do any panhard rod correction?

 

5/8 panhard correction. Castor is 3.7 with stock knuckles

 

I just installed rear 2” Red Dobinsons Coils. I had to use the good ole’ ratchet strap method to install them.

I removed the ebay track bar relocation bracket. Although it kept the track bar level and centered the axle, it actually binded/twisted the bar a little causing torsion and in turn, noise. Hard to explain it. It caused bar to twist ever so slightly causing a creaking noise. It was a $40 part…get what you pay for I guess.

I installed my dobinsons track bar and followed @Blacksheep6 call out for 5/8 added to stock length. Perfection! Thanks for the help on the measurement blacksheep6!

 

I put in OME 2864’s and those are definitely big boy springs for something constantly heavy like a camper. I can’t remember how the 2866’s (progressive) springs have worked out for load and rear height? I need to pop those in as they’ve been in my garage for far too long. I probably have like 3-4” lift in the rear.

I am fully loaded here and the 2864’s are like “you are?” The rear rebound is harsh and I’ve got Westcotts 3” up front

 

I got a similar set up with you, but have a TRD PRO with stock suspension. Getting Dobinsons installed on rear rated for 250-400 lbs of weight and a 1” lift. Hoping that takes away the sag. Will report back with what it does.

 

I’d be interested in your before and after, and fully loaded

 

I don’t have any measurements prior or loaded. But can tell you with all our gear we had a good amount of squat. Getting 35” tires helped hide some of it but will def let you know if it leveled out afterwards. I’m thinking it should level out for daily use, and adding water, food, fridge and battery and gazebo will sag a touch. Just didn’t want to jump to the next tension level and have too harsh a ride.

 

just a follow up, on the Dobinson springs, on the stock 2022 Fox suspension truck sits perfectly level now. Mentioned on the TRD PRO thread but rude quality feels nearly similar. Slightly stiffer but can barely notice a difference. If you guys have a similar set up with squat from heavy gear, these springs work perfect to keep ride quality yet level out the truck.

 

Haha thanks

 

Finally got the icon stage 7 kit installed with 17x8.5 0 offset wheels and 35x12.5x17 fallen wild peak at3s. Tires were rubbing on full lock so I removed the mud flaps no issues since then. After driving it for few days I noticed a click sound anytime I have the wheels turned either right or left. Only notice it when getting out of parking lots. Possible CV joint issues?

 

Where did you grab the Dobinsons from?

 

I've always heard a small pop when changing directions from forward to reverse. It's very subtle and probably reads worse in text than it sounds in real life. I had the same small "pop" on my 4Runner after a different suspension. It's something in the suspension...most likely these poly bushings. I've never been able to figure it out, but it's also never gotten to the point where I felt compelled to investigate it.

These may not apply to your situation, but I wanted to put them in the comments for others.

I've watched tons of YouTube videos of Tundras that have a clunk or a pop after getting a suspension lift trying to diagnose my own pop. There seems to be 3 or 4 common areas to look:

• UCA Poly Bushings - If you went aftermarket UCAs (which I'm sure you did with a Stage 7 kit) then often times they come with poly bushings. These often times can cause a squeak as the suspension flexes. They're also known for a "pop" sound if they're installed too tight or installed improperly and will bind slightly.
• LCA alignment bolts - Super common for Tundras, Tacos, and 4Runners to have a "clunk" when changing direction between reverse & forward, turning, or moderate to heavy braking from the LCA alignment bolts. This is also really common after you've had an alignment. Make sure these are torqued down properly and check the torque again after 300-500 miles. If the shop didn't torque down the LCA bolts perfectly...they can become slightly loose. You should be able to retighten them without affecting your alignment. Just put a witness mark on the alignment dial plate and make sure it doesn't move when you tighten the bolt.
• Sway Bar bushings & End Link joints - Another common area for popping is the sway bar. Even with the small drop bracket that most kits include (except for the giant bracket included in the OEM TRD kit), the sway bar can cause popping noises. The end links can pop as they flex. The bushings on the front radiator cross member that hold the bar can also be overtightened and cause binding.
• Skid plate bolts - Less common (IMO) but plenty of people seem to run into this is the skid plate. If the skid plate bolts were overtightened during reinstall, it can cause the plate to bind as the frame flexes. The plate is much more rigid than the frame. The frame is designed to "twist"/"flex" slightly. The skid plate is not.

One other area to note: Some videos have pointed to the steering rack on older Tundras...but I don't see that being an issue on a new truck. If that were the case, you should only hear it during turning.

Specific to CV Axles:

• If it's a CV Axle issue - the easy way to diagnose this is to turn slowly in a parking lot. You should hear the click/pop sound repeat near constantly throughout the turn. If it only clicks or pops once...then it's more likely a suspension issue. I don't think I've ever seen a bad CV axle that only "clicks" once. When the CV axle is really bad, the popping/clicking will often have steering wheel feedback where you can feel the wheels "binding." However, that's usually only when the joint is nearly out of a grease and is near failure.

I'm not sure if any of this is going to help. Clunks, pops, clicks, & squeaks are always tough to diagnose because it's hard to reproduce those sounds on a rack. You usually need the weight of the vehicle + movement to reproduce the noises.

 

How did you like the SCS’s? Got a shot down the side for poke? Thanks!

 

I loved my Ray10’s that I had in my Tacoma. I used to live in Livermore CA where SCS’s headquarters are. They are good guys. You can go buy blemished units for cash and get a screaming discount. The truck looks good, nice work

 

@KroppDuster thanks a lot for the info man! Always appreciate your input and knowledge!

 

viper cut the front, or get a new bumper!

 

With your ambitions I would look at bigger lift than the 3 inch one lol

 

Is PullKitchen still in business? I sent them an inquiry on IG or their page but nadda back yet. Seems like a nice setup. You have yours mounted directly to your bed? Curious how you attached it. Nice rig btw!

 

No it not anymore

 

That's a bummer, they had lots of potential..

 

Starting at 5k might have contributed, that's a lot of cake.

 

Has anyone had issues with their rear Icon struts rotating? Mine have rotated 90 degrees about 6k miles.

 

Getting some rubbing with the Westcott lift and ICON Billet UCA’s (35” tires) still here (see photo)I think that’s the body mount chop I would want to do but not sure. I am going to get a better alignment done which will likely fix the rubbing but thinking about preemptively doing this chop anyways as I will end up converting over from Westcott to a full suspension (likely ICON). Have been holding out for them to develop something for us with the Platinum AVS/Air Ride setup but it’s not looking likely so I’ll probably just bypass it all together. Anybody know of companies with plates made for this chop already?

 

You don’t need a plate. You can cut it off. Grind back the edges flush with the rest of the cab mount. I guess. Plate welded into the spot could look “cleaner” but it’s not like the cab mount chop on other Toyotas.

pic of it chopped with no plate.

 

After my lift and 35's I had to remove the mud flaps because both sides rubbed at full lock. Tried cutting the mud flap but had to cut so much there wasn't a lot of support on the inside mount. Is there mud flaps that will work with 35's?

 

Can’t you just unbolt that mount?
Took mine off a long time ago, don’t remember what it looks like.

 

FWIW, we have our final tuning done for the 22+ Tundra King shocks and have a few sets in stock and more on the way.
https://accutuneoffroad.com/product...ic-products/toyota/tundra/toyota-tundra-2022/

 

The piece circled in red is the "body mount" the needs to be chopped off. The liner screw (circled in green) goes to the bracket that can be unbolted, allowing for the liner to be tucked back even more.