TRD Pro Wheel Well Camo Trim

Perfect fit! Great job they look fantastic and cover the tires perfectly. You got them for an amazing price and so much faster than most of us on the thread, nice work!
Mine are finally arriving tomorrow. Are you going to wire your lights in? That's the big question here! I think I'm going to install mine w/o wiring for now.

 

Being in central Arizona, I was surprised myself. I waited 6 months before I went shopping. If I hook up the lights, ill source the wire from the trailer plug. For now, they are reflectors.

 

Most enjoyable install ever. Not wired for the moment, someday! But for now, absolutely in love with these! Looks and quality amazing

 

Nice !

 

Camouflage looks very impressive in sunny weather, but when it's cloudy we will turn on the lights. We look forward to continuing!

 

Looks good. Stock wheels right? What size tires? Do you have any unpoke (what’s the opposite of poke)?

 

Stock R20 TRD wheels, TRD 3” lift, BFG KO2 285/65R20.

The TRD flares feel and look amazing I keep finding myself walking around the truck admiring. I’m sure I could use spacers or install wider tires if I wanted to, but would be worried about rub. Pretty happy with the look r/n.

If I did want to fill the new space, what spacers would you recommend? Anyone who has done this I’d love pics. Past pics have shown these flares do a great job matching a good poke lol

For me this setup is great for r20 on the TRD lift b/c of no rub, and better speed and load ratings than flotation. Also listed as the largest for the TRD kit that doesn’t require dealer to make changes I didn’t want. Not sure if spacers would introduce rub w/the TRD lift.

Either way these parts were worth the long wait, seamless install on the TRD OR limited. Especially cool is how there are pre-drilled slots in our trucks for the flare’s marker light housings in the wheel well! Much beefier than the flimsy (in comparison) stock parts.

PS I have my black TRD OR flares available

 

Cool. I also have the TRD lift - with OEM 1794 wheels, but I believe offset is the same (+60). I had bad rubbing on the sway bar with the exact same tires as you so I put spacers on which made the rubbing much better (although still slightly there). My truck is currently at the dealership for an axle issue and they are checking why I rub so bad while it is there. But putting the spacers on is what made me consider the pro flares since my tires are now out a bit. I only did 1" spacers so they are now currently about dead even with the stock flares.

I used Bora spacers as FYI and they seem very solid, but haven't driven much in them yet and if the dealer can somehow make adjustments so I do not rub without the spacers, I will probably remove them. But this is why I wondered about the wheels looking too far inset with the bigger flares. Seems like it looks good though from your experience.

 

Thanks cruiserhead! Cool we both have the same tire size and lift! Now you’ve got me curious about spacers! I agree that having that perfect flush fit with the flares would look great, do you have any pics you can post? So you think a 1” spacer would be good, although you mentioned that if you can figure out the rub you might remove then. I’m not familiar with the advantages/disadvantages (if any) to spacers but I will do some reading. Pls LMK what you learn re your sway bar rub and whether the spacers helped! Thanks again!

 

Got the flares installed, they look good! Not wired yet, bit will eventually.

 

here are some pics of mine now with the spacers (stock flares). Hopefully you can get a sense of it.

 

So apart from the added width of these flares, I noticed that the black ones I took off fit inside the crease in the fender so you have an inset crease that follows the line of the flare.

Then you put the Pro flares on and this crease is now covered and the flare has a rubber gasket that touches the fender and hides the crease. This actually changes the look of the truck sides.

Some of the blocky appearance that we like about the gen3 Tundras is smoothed out!

Just thought I would share my observation for those who haven’t installed theirs yet.

 

Thank you CH! I really like the look with the spacers. I think spacers make the overall effect more balanced with the TRD Pro flares. I’ve been looking at the 1” Spidertrax they look great. Some posts say they make the ride more stable with better tracking! Some posters write that spacers make the build weaker and worse for towing. Studying now!! PS this thread is awesome I love my flares

 

Personally, I would just prefer not to have the spacers...less things for something to go wrong. I will be doing a bit of towing as well, but for the time being I need to keep the spacers on because of the rubbing.

I agree on the look and like the slightly wider stance though. I am leaving them on for now, but likely at some point will just get some wheels with a bit more aggressive offset. I have the pro flares on order, so will see how it looks once installed!

 

Added PRO flares ( not wired ) and REK GEN mud flaps.

stock wheels
285/ 65 / 20 Toyo A/T 3
1” Borla spacer

 

@teab Phase 1 complete (see pics)I got a late start so I will have to work on it a little throughout the week. Can’t wait to get it finished. Like you I want to see this through and not have to come back and make it look better later.

 

That is clean. Nice job!

 

Looks great! I've been debating on whether or not I should run 1" spacers with my factory off-road wheels..

This Saturday I'm having a set of 285/65 R20 Mickey AT Baja Boss installed. This past weekend I installed the flairs and wow, the stock tire / wheel combo was not going to cut it IMO. Did you run your wheel and tire combo without the spacers and decide you still needed them, or were you already running the spacers?

 

I had the tires, level, and spacers installed all at the same time.

 

@teab Mission accomplished!! I finally had some time to run all the wires and make all the connections. I ran one wire from the driver’s side front across the grille and down the passenger side until I reached the 4 way plug. I also ran a wire from the driver side rear across the spare tire support. All lights were t-spliced into the 2-lead long wire. I made one connection to the 4-way plug and tried it out. All lights work perfectly. If anyone is wondering, the positive pin on the lights is the pin closest to the middle of the light.

To anyone looking to wire your Pro flare lights, all I can say is….

@teab is a Tundra genius.

 

Very nice DIY wiring jobs above!!

I see Rave has a wiring set up for the flares lights. Has any tried this route ?

 

I have the Rave kit but haven't installed it yet. You get a disconnect for each flare if you ever need to take the flare off. The pin end of the wiring connect to the light and then the shrink wrap is applied. I would inject some epoxy or sealant into the end before putting the heat shrink on. The wires are intended to be permanently installed to the light and the connector sits about 10" to 12" away from the light tucked into the fender.

The other end has a fuse tap or wire tap. It is pretty easy to install these, it just depends on how you want to trigger them, that will be that hardest part of this.

I went this route because I didn't want to deal with the shaving of connectors.

When I was about to give up on my order for the flares and go with Sports, I looked at some flush mount LED's and I was going to install them into the sports. To much time thinking about lights! I need another hobby! I do like the TRD units now that I have them.

 

I wonder if these will fit it?

$15 Pack of 2 Side Marker Light Pigtail Connector Harness for Compatible with Toyota Lexus Camry Prius Rav4

https://www.amazon.com/ALLMOST-Marker-Pigtail-Connector-Harness/dp/B07VB4QBYN

 

Or this one

$14 Godaca 1x Connector 2-way 2 pin for Toyota Turn Signal Light 90980-11162

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-2-way-Toyota-Signal-90980-11162/dp/B01E3CDBRY

 

I ended up using some Delphi female pins 16-20ga that I had left over from another project and made the fender flair light connections with them and 18 gauge wire, which is more than sufficient - see picture of amperage draw from the front two lights at less than 2 tenths of an amp. Very solid and the connections wont be going anywhere anytime soon. I'll throw some pictures and a basic step by steps below for anyone interested. Relatively inexpensive and easy to do if you have some basic DIY skills. A few others have done this too, from what I have read throughout the thread. I wont cover any of the 12 volt supply as I have mine hooked up through my switch-pro, but the rear trailer connection, or trailer lights relay under the hood are both good places to start. The non-premium LED headlights also have a parking light connection that can be tapped and will suffice.

1) Make up your pig tails and with the bare female connectors on one end and whatever connection you want to make on the other. I would put some heat shrink around each female pin as shown below just to make sure they don't somehow contact each-other prior to your epoxy setting up.

2) Take the Female connectors and inert them onto the male connection at the light housing.

3) Place the light housing in a vise with some soft jaws or figure out a way to hold them upright so you can fill them with quick set epoxy, or pot the connections with another suitable alternative.

4) After fully cured take marine grade heat shrink and cover the connection to prevent any possibly water intrusion and also help to prevent wire strain. (I used a 2 minute clear epoxy suitable for plastics, one hr full cure time)

I would recommend using a wiring loom(s) to prevent any wire chaffing and keep everything neat. Going to attach some pictures that should help give some clarity. Unfortunately I got carried away and didn't take any photos of the connectors after they had been potted with the epoxy. Pretty simply stuff though, and I'm sure you get the idea. Note at the end of the pigtails I used a different type of connector because it's what I had on hand (Deutsch) but they are rather expensive, as are the crimping tools and probably not ideal for your DIY. The Delphi type weatherproof connectors below are perfectly fine to use.

Some links to products described although you can typically find this stuff in most large metro areas:

female pins / water-proof connectors

$9 MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals Water Resistend

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014IU2EE2?ie=UTF8&th=1
Crimp tool for connectors

$19 iCrimp Weather Pack Crimper Tools for Delphi APTIV Packard Weather Pack Terminals Metri-Pack Connectors for Sealed Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KFLY43?ie=UTF8&th=1
Heat shrink tubing w/ adhesive liner

$15 ALEKOR Heat Shrink Tubing Kit - 3:1 Ratio Adhesive Lined, Marine Grade Shrink Wrap Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing - 240 PCS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3JX1G1W?ie=UTF8
Wiring loom, 1/8" works well for (2) 18ga wires (you can go with hard plastic as an alternative)

$13 100ft - 1/8" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GN12PY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1





















I used the 2 minute plastic version of this, but this would probably work just fine as well:

 

I got curious about wheel spacers after installing the TRD Pro wheel trim. I think that it will look even better with the wheels out just a bit to be flush. I ordered the Spidertrax 1” spacers for our truck. First time I’ve used spacers, have read a lot and feel confident. Will post before and after pics.

https://www.spidertrax.com/2022-Up-Toyota-Tundra-Wheel-Spacers?sc=2&category=29920

 

Thanks Ryan! Hoping I really like the look and drivability. Also hoping no issues with suspension or towing. Do I need another alignment after installing? Running 285/65R20 BFG KO2

 

Looks like I’m not getting my flares. Ordered May 11th.

Waited until I got this email with email of original invoice attached as well. $375 additional shipping charge on top of the $99 shipping originally quoted.

 

$160 each from Servco Toyota who is Hawaii’s only dealer.

I’ll be in OKC in June so I may order there and bring them back with me via check in baggage.

 

So sorry to hear this Iiawah808! Hawaii is the most beautiful ever but shipping can be so expensive from the lower 48! Same with Alaska in my experience.

I agree with Ryan, if you can order through your dealer on-island, hopefully they can include your awesome flares with their main shipments and cover the transport.

Even though your Sparks order will be cancelled (that shipping cost is insane!!) I have no doubt that you will get your flares from your dealer for a fraction of that cost. I enjoy your posts BTW cheers!

just saw your post re carry on baggage that is a good idea! FYI the box dimensions are really large, much bigger than the flares themselves. Even though the weight is low, airlines may measure and charge for 4 separate luggage pieces…that can really add up.

my last idea is negotiating with Sparks. Why TF do they have to use 2nd day air FedEx? Super expensive. Why not ship UPS slow boat. Will cost way less. You could even generate labels for them (find some discounts) and they can print and ship. Big savings

https://www.ups.com/assets/resources/webcontent/en_US/ak_hi_rates.pdf