What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Same here, or just the 'bare' Bones.

NSK does most all of the bearings I've ever replaced in my Jap cars. Tundra has been T-belt idler, wheel bearings and now this tensioner pulley too. They have a great online search tool - I may order one up and just install into OEM for backup. Spring tension was well within spec, all it needs is new single NSK 6203DUL1 and it'll be god to go.

 

Gotta quit procrastinating and throw the airbags on the truck today… hope it’s as easy as the YouTubes one watched.

only has them for like a year now lol

 

I still need to install my rear shocks after two years since doing the front.

 

I was drinking the koolaid until I ran across L=2895 for a particular piece of trim



Since Toyota online is somewhat fubared, it won’t bring up that link to that part in case it explains J or L or meaning of 2895

https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__...NG-TRIM-MDCHARCOAL/63210164/633180C010B0.html

 

This no doubt is why autorust.com was founded in RI...

 

Well. All done. Went fairly easy after I figured out where to mount everything. Ended up doing a 2 to 1 tee to fill the bags instead of nipples for each bag. Hope I don’t end up regretting it but should work fine. Going camping the end of this month so I’m excited to see how it tows.

And what’s a pic without a nip slip…


I also ditched the stupid Raybestos drums because they aren’t round and put the oem Toyota drums I’ve had for a few months sitting. I did notice that only one of the new drums had what appears to be weights? Assuming the other didn’t need it. Again I’ll have to see how she drives later today or tomorrow. The old rotors look super rusty because my truck sat a few hours in a flooded parking garage but they only have like 2,000 miles on them lol

 

This is the #1 biggest mistake people make when running bags, and it will bite you in the ass. Good thing you have time to correct the problem before towing. Read from this reply onward to understand why it's a huge mistake and what happens when you do just that.

 

@CodyP

...this is very good information and spot on; it'll save you future headaches

 

Dammit! Never thought of that. Well here’s hoping I left enough slack to not use the tee. Guess I’ll have to revisit it tomorrow or this weekend. Thanks for the heads up and the extra work jk

 

I had my 4runner bagged individually for some of the same reasons you mentioned

 

You can keep the tee in place. You just need to add a stop of some sort to prevent air from entering the other bag.

Maybe use a shutoff valve at the T itself, or if they make a T with shutoffs on either side. Something you can open to equally fill both bags, then shut off the line to one bag after.

Possibly something like this, but don't buy this, I don't know it'll work. IIRC, last bags I ran were using 1/4" OD, but that was like 8 years ago now. This is pneumatic, press-in, but may not be appropriate. Again, you'd only need one valve total, installed somewhere between the tee and either the left or right bag.

​

 

Still catching up on posts, since ive been off the site a couple weeks but just say this post and thought id comment as i just flushed and bled my brakes with the motive power bleeder from Amazon.

I ended up returning their "universal adapter" as it was leaking no matter what I tried and couldnt get passed 5 psi. I ended up going to a pick a part, took a MC press fitting cap and made my own adapter using that.

Drilled a hole and ran some tubing in it and siliconed the cap shut so it couldnt let any air escape. Then used the j hooks to clamp it on with a metal piece i added on top and it worked perfectly! Ill take some pics of it if you like?

 

Where were you when I needed that idea a week ago?

I actually decided to splurge on the Speedi-bleed system using tire air pressure and an air pressure regulator to provide 15 psi of pressure to the MC instead of using a hand pump like the motive system.

I only decided on it after watching a video of the motive pump and the guy pumping it 50 times to get it to 15 psi. Decided I wanted a quick and easy way to do it. I can also add a pressure relief valve set to 20 psi at a later date in case I want to use it on my future new truck when I buy one.

 

I really like the sound of that system you bought too though! It wasnt too much pumping especially once i had no leaks at all, but you definitely do have to do a good amount of pumps. However, once it got to 15 psi it pretty much stayed there for all 4 brake bleeders being flushed/ bled. Only needed a few pumps here and there to get back to 15. Either way, glad you got a good system!

I did end up ordering the MC adapter like your speedi system uses, but after the pick a part version i built for the $3 entrance fee to the junkyard worked perfectly, im returning the fancy MC adapter. it was $70 on Amazon!

 

Northern Coast / Oregon trip was great by the way guys. Sorry I didnt make it to T2S this year, but will definitely plan on it next year. Hope you guys had a great time!

 

It was like that for me when I last visited Seattle but an evening trip to Cowgirls took my mind off the problem.

 

Got new pads on the brakes, flushed and bled the brake and clutch fluid.

Then welded up a bracket in the dead space on my swing out for a fire extinguisher mount.

 

Daaaaamn look at that brake fluid bro. Clear as day. That's, like, maintenance porn and shit.

 

Hmm. I Guess I’ll try one of those. That’s a lot of fittings and chances for leaks so I’ll see how it holds up. I may end up just buying new tubing and running two new lines. Only 4 spots to leak that way. With this valve it would put me at 8

 

This... this right here... That was some great work and serious effort.

 

6 places. You'd be cutting one line and inserting that fitting as seen in blue below, only an example. You only need one, on either leg of the T, as such, to prevent air passing between the bags. Open it during fill up, get things to the PSI you desire, then close the valve and you're running on an isolated system again.

Really, you're just isolating each bag from one another, and as long as you install these press fittings properly, you won't leak. I use them for everything from water plumbing to airbags, and the only time I've seen leaks is because of stupid stuff, like failure to cut the tubing square or clean up the edges.

​

 

Tagging @RUSTYNUTS
Never heard back after I quoted. What parts did you use for this? Welded yourself or at a shop? Have any pics of it?

 

I got my Auxbeam switch panel mounted and wired tonight. Just need to tidy some wiring under the hood and add my ditch lights.
Love it!

 

I remember the post, and fully intended to respond. My attention must've been diverted. I'm just going to blame prepping for the Sedona trip.
So uh, I'll try to find the kit I bought, I believe it was a Ammozone purchase. Yes I did the welding myself. I can get you a couple pics tomorrow. Shit... just right now, thinking about getting under there and shooting pics, I remembered that I had broken an exhaust hanger bracket, and my pipe is being held up with a tie-down strap. Don't recall exactly how, just that it was done in a way that it won't burn/melt and fail. And apparently well enough to hold thru the whole trip and all the abuse while there. I apologize for the tangents, you just reminded me about that. I'll get a couple pics tho tomorrow and find the kit, possibly now. In the mean time, enjoy this clip of a truck running a course with its exhaust secured using only a nylon tie-down strap.
https://youtu.be/NxBhp0fw1_0

edit: that course is not nearly as basic as it appears on video. Soft volcanic rock-made sand, and full of bumps/whoops. If you watch closely, you can see the rear bucking violently a few times. Need more travel in my rear suspension evidently

 

So, the listing is gone since I bought it a couple years ago, but this closely matches what I bought..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1450333576...uid=wWqxvA8JQ7y&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
There is a better version similar to this that I wish I knew about when I bought it. The one in the link, as well as mine, have a single valve that opens and closes (simple butterfly valve just like on your intake manifold) When closed, the exhaust passes thru the 'other' side, which is just an open pipe into the muffler When you open the valve, it passes thru both, so half the exhaust is still muffled. On the better version, both pipes have a valve, and both operate on 1 motor and a shared shaft, but in opposing positions. So when a pipe opens, the other is sealed shut. Then upon opening the cutout, 100% of the exhaust will bypass the muffler.

 

I wish I did that but I needed a place for eaton's giant e-locker switch and I'm not sure it would work with that setup.

 

Twinkies!!! And I have airbags on the shelf as well.

 

Cut off the switch that came with the e-locker and just wire it into your Auxbeam?

 

For field testing purposes of course. Better than any lab environment.

 

Maybe, but I like the elocker switch because it has a safety switch built on it Incase someone touches it at the wrong time it won't engage. You have to push the safety up and the switch down to engage