Anyone Know The Factory Alignment Specs for 2005 Access Cab 4x4, V-8?

Just got new tires put on (Michelin 265/70R16) and had the truck aligned,

PRE-ALIGNMENT Left Front; Camber 0.2, Caster 2.5, Toe -0.10, Right Front: Camber 0.0, Caster 2.9, Toe 0.02, Total Toe -0.08

POST-ALIGNMENT: Left Front; Camber 0.8, Caster 2.5, Toe 0.02, Right Front; Camber -0.3, Caster 2.9, Toe 0.02, Total Toe 0.04

Truck is stock - no lift kit.

I haven't been able to find the factory alignment specs on-line, so was wondering if this is within specs?

Also, dealer claimed that they could not adjust Caster due" to excessive rust" you guys in-the-know, what do you think?

 

I'm sure you'll be able to find it in the field service manual. You'll find a link to the one for your truck it near the top of the 1st reply in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

These are the numbers that work well for 1st Gen from just one of our more knowledgeable folks on the forum dealing with alignments @assassin10000

You can also find each years, including your 05 alignment specs, in the Major Spec section of the New Feature link below.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundras-new-features-chronology.93012/

 

If the cam sleeves rusted to the bushing sleeves inside the control arms, there is nothing that can be done. Not without cutting them out and installing new hardware and bushings (if not, control arms).


I don't recall the factory specs 100% but iirc is somewhere around:
0 to -.10 camber (+/- .50)
2.0 or 2.5 caster (+/- .50)
.08 total toe (+/- .20)

@BubbaW listed what specs I recommend for most.


I'm currently:
-.50 camber
2.8 caster
.15-.20 total toe

I was getting a touch too much outside edge tire wear at -.3 camber, so gave it more.

 

Thanks All!

Hey Assassin, looks like I may need to replace Lower Control Arm bushings, and/or L.C.A.s as well. Sounds like you might have experience with those, any advice?

 

If you don't have a large press and the correct size adapters it's best to just get new arms.

 

Yeah, break out the sawzall. I’ve done 7 or so in my Toyota dealings. They are hardened steel so it takes some work. I’ve found it’s easier to cut off the arms, grind down the nubs, and then pry them out of the frame.

Alignment wise, I ask for 0* Camber with the maximum amount of Castor on the Pass side, then for them to dial in the Driver side to the same, but to correct for road crown. Toe just to be in spec.

 

Hey Diablo,

If you've done 7, you certainly have a lot of experience with these!

Good old YouTube shows folks cutting at the bushings.

Is there a reason why you're cutting at the arms instead of at the bushings?

 

Yep, you’ll go though 12 Diablo Blades trying to cut through the hardened pieces, but technically you could press out the bushings and press in some new ones, but each bushing is close to $100, and not worth my time or the expensive sawzall blades.

It takes less than 1 sawzall blade to cut through both arms, and a quick flat disc to cut down the nubs sticking out. Then you just pry them out.

YouTube is full of a bunch of people who have only done it once and one way. I have 5 different 1st gens in my driveway and much of the info on YouTube is junk.

For example, my girlfriends 1st gen sequoia’s back hatch handle broke. YouTube said it’s a nightmare to replace, and to only get a metal one off Amazon for $12 and don’t waste money on a $200 factory handle. And that you’ll break every clip taking the plastic panelings off.

Turns out the $12 “metal” handle off Amazon is 100% $hit. Like absolute garbage $hit. Then you find out it’s not $200 from Toyota, it’s $94 and they have updated the design and it’s much beefier. And if you’re not a moron, you can remove every panel without breaking a single clip. Then if you have 1/2 a brain, you can replace the latch in less than 23min having never done it before.

I’ve never been so shocked at how useless YouTube was until researching Sequoia Rear Hatch handle replacement.

 

I have cut through my control arm bushings with two carbide sawzall blades.