rs 3000 or 3200 capable of disabling truck?

Hello I just purchased a 2000 Tundra sr5. It has one of the designed for Toyota anti theft car alarms installed in it. Mice had eaten some of the wire harness which i have repaired and i installed a new ecm into it. I still wind up with a no start condition. I cannot find any additional damaged wires and believe the wiring to be in good shape but the first time i hook up the battery and open the door the alarm triggers. I do not have any type of fob with the vehicle. I stop the alarm by turning the key to acc and pressing the little black button next to the alarm led to the the left of the steering wheel. I can then to proceed to crank the vehicle but the truck fails to actually start. I am curious if the alarm disables any other aspect of the vehicle like fuel pump or something else. any input would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Mice typically eat more than ECU wiring. They're also notorious for eating wires on top of the gas tank, severing the fuel pump, and also crawling under the intake manifold and eating the wires for the starter and knock sensors while nesting. How deeply have you checked for all of these hotspots?

You should really take a half an hour to read this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

I don't believe immobilizer was implemented with RS3000, which your truck should have, but I may be wrong on that. I swore imobi was a double-cab/sequoia thing but like I said, I've been wrong before.

It also sounds like you may have the dreaded dealer-addon security system, either KARR or SECURIKEY+. If so, can't urge you enough to get rid of that piece of shit. Factory alarm doesn't have buttons to press. Got pics of that button you're pushing?

 

The RS3000 doesn’t immobilize the truck, it’s just an alarm. Nothing fancy.

 

Here is a pic of the image. The damage to the wiring was pretty extensive on the inner fenderwell drivers side between the fuse box and the where the wire loom comes through the firewall. That is where the mouse set up house. There were many wires chewed there. The vapor pressure sensor wires were chewed off and the both the sides of the blinker pig tails were chewed on. I looked extensively inside the cab and and under the cab and bed and used a scope to look on top of the fuel tank and everything looks ok there. I will have to find a way to look in the valley of the engine under the intake. here is a picture of the button. It is a led than can be pressed. to make the horn stop honking and the lights quit flashing i turn the key to acc. and push that red illuminated button. The light of the button goes off and the horn stops. However there are a few circuits that do not energize when i check them in the fuse panels.

 

Yeah, that's full-on aftermarket, but I'm not sure which system it is.

In my experience, most alarms will have a black box/brain (or in KARR's case, it can be a blue box), often zip-tied up under the driver's side of the dash somewhere. Sometimes you'll find alarm brains strapped to the column housing, any of the OEM wire bundles, but if there's room, some installers just shove them into the kick panel, up behind the fuse box ... the critical wiring you need to tap into is in that vicinity, which makes it ideal. Alarms typically insert themselves into circuits needed for the vehicle to start and/or run, and thus if a rodent were to chew on specific alarm wiring, and it's the bridge between the vehicle starting or not starting, guess what happens?

See if you can find the brain, take some pics of the alarm components. Try and find me an FCC ID on one of the boxes, I'll try and dig up installation docs or a wiring schematic if I can find one, something that'll let you look at specific wires and trace them back, and if nothing else, uninstall the damn alarm. We may also be able to find info on how to bypass the immobilizing feature of the alarm, naturally or forcibly.

 

PS - I hate rodents.

 

here is the brain and either glass sensor or shock sensor.

 

Guess what my guy? You're the proud owner of a Securikey+ tainted vehicle!

http://jjguy.com/securikey/

There are a number of forums across the internet that show you how to remove that pile of shit. I'd need to dig, it's past my bedtime.

There's a pretty solid video of removing the KARR system from an FJ over here, it will share some similarities and may be worth a view. If you or someone else who can hunt is willing to find another thread, it would be better than this video, potentially, since your system is slightly different. Sorry you're dealing with this, but I'd remove the alarm component before proceeding with diagnostics. They're too notorious for causing no-start/no-run issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K--4L6DMjRY

 

PS in case it's not obvious, the manual is linked obscurely in that thread, here's a direct link: http://jjguy.com/securikey/securikeycommonmanual.pdf

You may find something worthwhile in that doc. I see the wiring pinout is definitely there toward the end. And color coding of wires too.

 

Thank you very much for the information. I am of the same opinion as you are to just remove it. Half the work is already done exposing it. I dont need any unknown variables added to this puzzle. Thanks for the responses and advice!

 

No prob, and hopefully the manual in my last reply helps you to tear it out cleanly.

Please keep us updated. Success stories are nice, but in the event of no success, more minds are better than one.

 

Here is an excellent writeup on removing the alarm system. It is a bit involved but very complete. I will be doing this momentarily.

 

That's the one I remembered seeing when I learned the SECURIKEY+ system was just a thing. It seems like dealerships in the eastern US were installing the Securikey system, and from Texas westward they got the KARR system. That's not necessarily fact, just spitballing from online reading and victim locations.

Removal shouldn't be horrific if you take your time and work methodically. And if you need help getting RS3000 setup after, with a standard fob, there's a multi-page thread on here dedicated to both confirming you have the keyless entry model (shows the locs), and explaining how to program the fob.