Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Hope it's alright to do this. I just started a thread about a misstep of some sort on my 2010 Sequoia 5.7.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2010-5-7-sequoia-i-messed-up.122695/

 

Remove the plugs and inspect for damage. Do a compression test. My guess is that the cam timing might have been wrong.

 

Will do. Do you know if the 5.7 geometry is such that the piston could hit a valve if the timing was off?

 

Yes, valve and piston contact can happen.

 

Front driver side brake is slow to release. When i back out of parking spot, i can feel it still holding for a second after i release pedal to go forward. No other drivability issue. Not dragging. Seems to grip evenly under hard braking. Truck has 125,000 miles.
I cleaned and greased slide pins a few months ago just because it was easy during tire rotation but that didn't make a difference.

Would you expect it to get worse over time if i do nothing?

My next thought is to remove pads to clean in caliper around pistons. Then put fresh grease on pistons and back of pads. (The purple ceramic grease)

Is there something else i should be checking?

 

Completley remove the caliper pad retaining pins and remove the pads. Remove the caliper retaining bolts and remove the 8mm bolt that holds the flex hose in place then set the caliper on a box so it's not hanging on the flex hose. Wire brush the area where pads sit and apply a thin coating of silicone grease. Clean the pins and coat them the same way. Push the caliper pistons back. Becareful to push back all four pistons at the same time or you may have a Piston pop out. Reinstall everything g and makes sure the pads move freely. Do the same on the other side.

Don't leave it because it will only get worse.

 

The dealership says there is no problem with the truck.

Tech says it’s normal to experience slow engagement if the truck sits for longer than a week.

The tech refused to place the truck in gear immediately after starting. He said it’s necessary to allow the truck to run for about 15 seconds before placing it in gear.

The truck is now back at home and will sit for a few weeks. I’ll try allowing it to run for about 15 seconds before placing it in gear.

 

How many owners wait 15 seconds after starting before placing the transmission in gear? Very few would and there are very few complaints on a new truck with slow trans engagement.

Sometimes when you go to the dealership with a problem that would take time to diag they tend rather wait and see. Toyota corporate pays nothing to the dealer for diag and they are reluctant to charge the customer. It really is a loosing situation for the dealership dollar wise.

 

Good points.

Thank you for the insightful information. Must be tough for dealerships.

I’m sure I’ll be happy with the slow engagement. Easy to live with.

 

I have a 2011 Tundra 5.7 FF that's not getting fuel. It started and ran just fine when I left work the other morning and when I went to leave again that afternoon, nothing. Didn't even try to fire. It would start with a blast of fluid in the throttle body but only enough to burn it off. Fuses good, swapped relay...I'm guessing that control module on the frame rail just based off internet searching and the fact that I had one go to crap on a Ford I had once....but like I said I'm only guessing. Can anyone steer me in the right direction on troubleshooting, it makes me sick to think about paying to tow this thing 40 miles and paying shop rate while they poke around for several hours if it's something I can isolate.
Thanks

 

Reach up and unplug the connector at the fuel pump. Check for power and ground at the connector. If you have no power, older Tundras had a problem with the wiring harness from the pump to the control module. It's unlikely that the fuel pump or module are the issue. You don't have to drop the tank to diag or change our the harness.

 

Can I check this with the key turned on or do I have to have someone turn it while I'm under there?

 

Test for power when the key is first turned on or when the engine is cranking. If you can get access to Techstream there is a utility that activates the pump.

 

What differential gears are compatible with the

$16 2022-2023 Cup Holder Divider and Hide for 2022+ Toyota Tundra, Anti-Tipping Insert (Matt Black)

2022-2023 Tundras? I’m looking to regear my 3rd Gen but no one has gears out at this time. Would previous Gen Tundra gear sizes work?

 

Nope, different rear end.

 

I would scour the owner's manual for any mention of having to wait after starting before putting the transmission in gear. But it's not in there.

 

Hi Everyone,
Excited to be part of this forum and just bought my dream truck a 2016 Tundra Pro.
Unfortunately off to a bad start as the original owner had it detailed before I bought and now its throwing a B1788 code and B1650 (airbags) code. Dealership wanting to charge me $1800 to get it fixed.
This is what they said:

Confirmed light on and seat belt light flashing, scanned for codes found codes B1788, B1650
tried performing sensitivity test and failed. tried also performing zero point calibration and failed which leads to recommend replacing passenger side bottom seat frame and occupant classification ecu. sent parts request for pricing.

Parts are :
Passenger front side bottom seat frame assembly…..517.80
Occupant classification ecu ……489.01
Labor = 624.00

Subtotal
Diag = 124.80
Labor 624.00
Parts 1006.81
1772.81 plus taxes.

I tried looking for loose wires under seat and none. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Update: Incase it helps anybody else.

After the truck sat for more than 15 days, I let it run for about 15 seconds before placing it in gear.

It engaged immediately.

 

Can anyone tell me the location of the bak up light relay on a 2010 tundra?

 

In the fuse block in the engine compartment on the driver side. There should be a layout diagram on the inside of the cover. I thought that I saw that relay on the upper right hand corner of the diagram.

Edit: I had to go out to the truck, so I looked. I didn't recognize a relay specifically for backup lights. Now that I think about it, aren't the just fused?

 

I concur no relay in the E/bay fuse box, but as long as I was there I checked them all for continuity. All good. The wiring diagram show a relay but no info on the location. The fuse for the B/U lights is only 7.5Amp. and the wiring diagram shows that it is only for the relay exciter circuit. I found an on line diagram that shows the relay under the dash above the throttle. But here is nothing there (of any kind). I guess I'll have to check with the dealer next time I go to town. BTW all fuses good. Thanks for the help.

 

I have a 19 tundra with 53k and the rack and pinion went out...Toyota claims common on lifted trucks. I have toytec coilovers so I'm probably sitting at 3inches. I would think oversize tires a bigger deal. I have 295/70/18 on stock rims. Now that I'm going thru this...fortunately they are covering the repair. My question is other than going completely back to stock which I won't do is there anything else I can do to help avoid a repeat? Like a coachbuilder steering kit?

 

Did Toyota change something about the wiring in 2021 (and possibly earlier) models. Just want keyless entry on my 2021 SR and cannot get low priced keyless entry system to work. Can get wiring working to lock/unlock manually but once I hook up keyless entry using both wiring choices neither works.

More specifically bought this system

$16 Car Remote Central Kit, Universal Vehicle Car Door Lock Keyless Entry System Central Locking Remote Control Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088D7R8LG/

 

Toyota Mech:

I'm trying to locate the B/u light relay on my 2010 4X4. It's apparently not in the engine bay fuse box. Can you help?
Thanks to Wynnded for the lead

 

I've seen it in the EWD, but I'll be darned if I can find anything to tell us where it's positioned on the vehicle....

 

Found an oil leak and started a thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-leak.123689/#post-3173900

Are any mechanics on here familiar with this particular leak? If not I’ll start taking the accessories off of the front of the engine to make sure I know where it is. But I’d rather not if I don’t have to.

thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

Well, I am moving I tread I started at the 2nd Generation Tundras to this page, so here it goes:
--------------------------
Nice to meet you forum members. My older son passed away a little over a month ago, and left behind a truck that he treasured, so I plan to take care of it and drive it very little. Anyway, this truck is a 2013 Tundra double cab with an 8-cylinder 5.7L engine that has 2 pending trouble codes number P0012, and P0022. The BlueDriver scan tool shows them as follows:

P0012 "A" Camshaft Position-Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1 (this has been a permanent code)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position-Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2

P0012 Code: The fixes from other owners reporting the codes have been replacing the engine variable valve (WT) timing solenoid. P0022 Code: The fixes have been replacing the engine variable valve timing (WT) solenoid.

The scan tool also directs to the parts replaced by other owners, found at Amazon as: 15330-0SO10. I could replaced the two solenoids, which I believe are located by the front edge of the engine cover, but still have to figure the exact locations Edit: already know the locations.

Any ideas why these codes would show? The oil and filters were replaced about a week of two (Mobil 1 0W-20, 8-quarts,Toyota oil cartridge), the engine does not burn oil, nor the oil level low. However, I have noticed that the oil pressure gage's pointer on a cold start takes a few minutes to rise to the middle or normal. And it happens gradually as the engine temperature gage's pointer rises from cold to the middle or normal mark.

I just feel that the oil pressure should rise rapidly instead of being so slow. But once the engine is at normal operating temperature, I can turn it off and restart before it is completely cold, and the oil pressure rises as it should.

 

Bump

 

My 2007 tundra 4.7 over heated. Blew off reservoir cap no other visible hose burst anywhere. I replaced water pump,thermostat,fan clutch, radiator cap and lower radiator hose At idle engine runs at normal temperature no problem but as soon as engine RPM increases lower radiator hose collapses ..I've replaced all I can think of.. any advice

 

You have an air pocket in the system