Knock Sensors Plus

I looked earlier this AM but couldn't find it BUT it was early early AM, about 420 AM

That Heather guy could teach you a thing or 3 by the looks of those hands

 

If it doesn't fit, fuck it and cut it. Splice it in. That's how I had to do it.

 

Hells Bells, you ain't cracked her open yet. That's when the fun starts
These folks got your back, no worries !

 

I'm pretty sure it's in the clamp & wiring area. https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2..._52016_6711566/WIRING--CLAMP/841420-8202.html

But there's so many damn explodeds in there to look at, that if I don't find it before my lunch cools down, I'm bailing!

 

I may be late to the party, but it says compatible with 2000-2004 Tundra. Don't you have 2005?

 

Bingo

on previous page

 

I clearly see the sensor in one of the diagrams, but there's sadly no link to the actual part. It'll definitely have the prefix of "82219", but I can't find the rest.

I thought at first it was 822190C010, then 8221934010, but ... I came up empty.

 

Those were my same results earlier this AM at the 3 places that usually have good results

 

It does say 2004 and I have no idea how big a difference it would be. I think my biggest need is getting the water resistant wiring and then being able to waterproof the connections.

Trying to save money by finding a pick a part by me means any of those savings disappear in the gas I'm gonna spend to drive there.

Just trying to figure out the smartest way to do this and avoid as many repeat trips after I start tearing things apart.

 

It does say in the drop-down that it is compatible to a 2004 and I do have a 2005, but this thing at the top is confusing me...

 

I found the one for the2005 VVTi V6, it's legacy part number. 8221935020 which translates to 822190C010.

I'm gonna look in one more place while I hit the head.

 

Never trust scAmazon's part finder.

2000-2004 was non-VVTi. 2005-2006 added VVTi. There are some somewhat significant differences in the two.

 

@Shifty - I figured. I wonder if it just makes sense to find some water resistant harness wire and build these myself.
I'll reach out to Dave, too.

 

I tried PartSouq also. No dice there. Sensors are there. Knock sensor harness isn't.

You can build yourself using the link Dave gave earlier.

But there's probably no reason you can't repurpose a harness also, as bmf mentioned.

 

For small lengths of wire I like 4RCustomsWire

18 is probably good. 16 might be fine too. Lots of the wire in the truck harness is 20 gauge. I like sizing up to 18 as it’s a bit less prone to slicing and I like how 18 TXL crimps to a terminal.

 

I'm going to a junkyard this morning to see if I can get some wiring. It seems the only way to get the harness in assembled form from Toyota is to buy the entire engine harness...

Also, I posted a query about the ECM and whether or not I can identify the specific date and time a code was triggered.
(trying to be better about keeping these things all separate for anyone in the future who does research).

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ecm-code-query.123862/

 

questions with the wiring. Can I use 16 or 18 gauge wire that for example might be used in a home or for an application outside of an automobile?

Besides being made of plant-based material, is there some thing about the insulation or the wire itself that makes it more durable and lends itself to automotive applications?
I feel it's probably not an option since it hasn't been mentioned here.

 

I’d prefer closer matching to automotive wiring. GXL or TXL in this case. The actual wire used for the OEM harness is sourced overseas as far as I’m aware. These harnesses are typically made in large factories.

I wouldn’t love using any old junkyard harness either. Could be corroded.

I would either go to the dealer for a repair wire or 4Rcustoms TXL for diy or send to me and I’ll reproduce it.

 

@daveeasa - that was one of my concerns with going to a junkyard as well. I don't know what color those wires are until I get everything dismantled as far as the intake manifold. That may be my only option, to match with automotive wiring...

I guess if it was fun, everybody would be doing it!

 

Hello Everyone -

Follow up from the continuing adventure of trying to save money and inheriting more problems.

Got my truck out to my buddy's place in Port Charlotte this past weekend. He, being a former rocket scientist with NASA, offered to help because he had to rebuild an entire wiring harness for his MR2.
The PDF document was a great starting point and the additional holes were plugged in by a guy who's got a video in three parts on this exact thing.

I have attached a link to part one and this PDF document alongside this post.

Some notes about doing the work from a professed shadetree mechanic:

Be patient. Some of your plastic wire harness plugs are going to be very brittle and if you've never done the work they may be adhered in place due to heat and dust. We very slowly worked each of the plugs off where we had to disconnect any, by wiggling back-and-forth.

When loosening the fuel rail, try to do it before lifting the intake manifold. I had the scare of my life when one of the screws came out of the hole and disappeared underneath. When I checked the intakes, a valve was open and my heart sunk into my chest. Short of a borescope, I knew my engine was going to die an untimely death. We got the shop vac and vacuumed the first massive pile of poop, I started looking around and realized from the PDF and the video there was more space. Underneath the blower and the antifreeze line was more debris.
As it turned out, once the blower was moved, what had been the worst day of my life became the best moment of my life at that point when I saw the screw resting comfortably and another pile of rat poop and food.
What my smart friend was doing with every screw was he had a magnet attached to his socket wrench so every screw came out and those that didn't he was able to extract with a telescopic magnet.

We wound up not having to take apart the antifreeze lines or remove the blower. In the video the guy drains the radiator to disconnect that but it wound up not being a thing for us and my buddy was able to work around it.

The throttle assembly in the back, held on by a single screw, and the wiring harness screw (back left corner as you are looking in the engine bay) have to be removed to get the intake manifold off.

Plug the intakes as soon as the manifold is removed.

The splicing itself? We picked up automotive heat resistant wire the next gauge thickness up, heat shrink tape, and high temp silicone. There was enough wire in the wire harness in the engine and the rodents thoughtfully left enough wire on the wire harness plug that he was able to splice without a problem. We used a soldering gun to solder the wire in place and then we used heat shrink tape to seal them. After that guy took a liberal amount of high temp silicone and coded the entire thing with it and once he had spliced both the red and green wires and everything was slathered in silicone and sealed, we sealed them together with another piece of shrink wrap for additional measure. Finally, just because, I used wire harness wrap over everything.

For the hardware cloth, I wound up using a much smaller amount than I thought I would. I took two strips about 4 inches by an inch and I loosely folded it and then slipped it into a small 2 inch cylinder of the same material. I zip tied them to keep it closed and then as we lowered the intake manifold I allowed it to get sandwiched. I did this to both sides on the front. I didn't upload pictures of that, but I will.

Tape everything. We used blue painter's tape and I took it a step further and for every hose I drew an illustration of the connector it went to. I know this sounds excessive but I didn't want any challenges.

Every screw and nut and bolt we took out we put on the ground in order and corresponding to that side of the vehicle. In some cases, I labeled the bolts with the painters tape as well.

The fuel Pulsator: not only is it critically important to make sure the washers are placed exactly the way they come off, but as you slowly and carefully turn your 22 mm wrench to tighten, make sure it pairs up snuggly to the outcropping or extension you are attaching it to. If these two aren't against each other, you may encounter a fuel leak.

It took us 6 hours, but that included breaks for water, some quick food, panic scrambling to figure out how to get a screw out of the engine, and a trip to the auto parts store. Re-Assembly took about an hour.

If I could wrap the entire engine and hardware cloth to keep the rodents out I would.

I wanted to keep this as brief as possible, but if / when I think of anything else, I'll share here.

The truck, I am happy to report, is back to my expectation of normal.
I don't have enough to say as far as thank you goes, and I can't say it enough.

Thank you.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdDxNBER24A&t=541s

 

Hey @Brad Majors

Thanks for the thorough follow-up. I'm sure someone in the future is going to find this super helpful. Moreover, it must feel awesome to be able to drive the truck without having that amber money-light lit!

 

@Shifty - having it perform and not having that light on are HUGE. Thank you for being a constant sounding board out there!

 

Looking back it wasn't that hard, was it? Hardest part is getting started. And picking that manifold up by yourself. That kinda sucked.

 

@bmf4069 - You're right...and glad I had someone else to assist with the manifold. If you need two people for any one element, that would be it.

 

Great job on the fix! As an electrical engineer and hobbyists racecar builder, I would like to share some information if that's ok!

I know it's the easy way to do it, but I would never solder wires in a vehicle. These solder joints become stiff and with vibrations, create a "break" zone in the wire. Heat shrink helps to limit this, but it's considered bad practice. A non insulated but connection is the preferred method. As for heat shrink, there is a double sided type with a glue internal that acts as an environmental barrier. Coincidentally, these types are usually a 3:1 shrink ratio vs the 2:1 for standard heat shrink (means a better seal).

Glad you were able to get it fixed though! And great job tackling it with the help from the forum guys!

 

Hey @Brad Majors I see you haven't been on in almost a year now, so I'm hoping you have notifications setup to alert you from the forum.

I wanted to loop back with you on this because I see similar will be on my horizon eventually. I keep popping a P0328, but only once every blue moon, which either means I've got a failing driver side sensor, or wiring harness problem.

I too went down the rabbithole today, spending hours on end trying to figure out if anyone makes a harness for the VVTi-based 2005+ owners with the 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8 and, after digging all over the internet, I struck out.

I've found several Toyotas with knock sensor harnesses, one is the forked harness which I believe will only work for 2000-2004 (I think it's 82219-08010), and a couple of 4-lead harnesses which appear to feed (starter, air injection pump and valves, and both knock sensors?) but it's for a Lexus LX.

Anyway, main reason I'm bumping this ... It really looks to me like Toyota (sadly) created one big ass engine harness, and the two knock sensor wires at the tail end, so there's (again, sadly) no way for us 2005-2006 Tundra owners with the 4.7L 2UZ-FE engine to pop off the manifold, unplug a short sub-harness, plug in a new sub-harness and attach it to the sensors and other peripherals, then button it up.

Long way of asking this question: When you were in there, can't tell from your pics, does my last sentence sound about right? Did you see any evidence of a smaller harness for only the stuff under the manifold while you were in there? Or was the only solution splicing in new sections of wire where rodents chewed thru?

I'm going to replace the driver side knock sensor anyway, but after reading other forums online with P0328 specifically, where people replaced the pigtails and sensors, but still popped P0328 specifically, I'm ... like you, ready to create a 3-page thread at this point before diving in. I know it'll take me several hours to complete (by myself)

 

If figured that harness they gave me was for a vvti motor. It works, but now I wonder what it was for. Shoulda got a picture of the bag.

 

I haven’t been able to get a clear shot of the valley harness on a VVTi truck yet. I was banging Google Images for it yesterday. I probably need to revisit the tear down videos in the mega thread and see if our favorite engine disassembled shows it. I bet he’d know, maybe I should ping him.