GEN 3 (2022+) Wheels and Tires Photo thread

Wow that’s crazy on your fuel wheels that u have that much poke on +20
I fig offset is offset no matter the rim used.
How in the hell are we supposed to order wheels if we have no way of fig out.
I know it’s confusing to me. I would be pissed if I ordered a +20 and still had poke on a 275 tire. Not saying anything negative about your set up. It’s just that wheels and tires are so exspensive and unless u copy someone else u truly have no idea what it’s going to look like until there ordered,paid for and on the truck!
To late then to make a change. Wow thanks for the info!

 

i knew that i would have poke at +20, no different than our 2018 that had poke also on the helo wheels. have to remember the oem width is like 8 or 8.5 so according to this chart i would have to run +25 at 8.5 in or +32 at 8 in on a backspace of 5.75

since fuel doesnt make a +25 or +32 offset in those wheels = poke

+19 offset @ 5.75 should have made it even per the chart but the back space on the fuel is closer to 6 it seems like

chart : https://www.wheelspecialists.com/wheel-specs

 

Wow thank you
Never realized how difficult wheels and tires can be lol. I get frustrated sometimes and think just keep the factory wheels lol
I think I’ve been studying wheels and tires for about a month spending hours on it. It’s becoming an issue. Also weight im all caught up in weights. Some wheels I like are 40lbs some 29 that’s a huge difference but everyone seems to say in a heavy setup they can tell. When I added 295/70/18 tires to my stock wheels I really didn’t notice much change. But I don’t beat on my truck either. Seems to accel hard when I ask her to witch is rare! thanks again!

 

I am right there with you. This is my first truck and feel like I’m spending a lot of time learning before buying and still kinda confused. I also thought there’d be a website with all the toyota wheels to buy, both stock and TRD, but I haven’t found it yet. I also thought of just powdercoating my stock wheels, but don’t feel like going down that rabbit hole. For right now I’m just leaving them stock and putting “new wheels” on the back burner haha. I hope your wheel hunt goes well!

 

if you use the tiresize.com offset calc you can get a close estimate. its pretty spot on when you have the correct numbers.

below is a comparison of the oem size and basing it on a 8in width wheel, but i am guessing the oem size is closer to 8.5in which should put it at about .47 poke

 

I spent so much time looking at wheels trying to find something to work with the Tundra which is different than most other trucks. We have a high positive offset and a unique center bore. The OE wheels can be skinny which makes it harder ti use them when going up in tire size.

Added weight also kills the economy that we are looking for in this V6 powered truck.

I was able to find a wheel that is flow formed (helping to keep the weight down) which is better than cast but maybe not as good as forged. My wheels are 20" x 8.5" wide with an offset of +15. I was hoping for minimal poke and have over an inch.

It turns out that I added 2.3" of offset difference from the stock wheels so I can see them sticking out. The OE wheels were inset quite a lot which I didn't like and the new ones look proper.

Fortunately, I only added about 7lbs, if I recall, to each corner so not too much weight increase. I haven't really tracked my fuel economy so I don't know how the weight affects it.

I have ordered some TRD Pro flares a few months ago but they are back ordered. Since then, I have been looking at the RC Sport flares to cover up the poke.

 

with tire size being the same (and back spacing), you would have needed +25 to be even @ 8.5in

here is the chart that i attached

 

I forget which calculator site I used, but imo you need to be able to put in the stock rim sizes and offset, and then new rim sizes and offset

If you don't put in the original width of the rim vs new width, your calculations are all wrong, this is why I used calculator with a OEM before and after

Also backspacing doesn't mean much, my focus was offset and knowing rim width OEM vs aftermarket

 

I used 1/2 of the width increase of 1" so I took 12.5mm and added that to the difference from +60mm stock to my new wheels at +15mm which gives me 57.5mm or 2.3" in change. I was wondering about the math but it seems to make sense to split the width increase but I could be wrong. The end result seems to reflect the math that I used.

 

Backspacing isn't what you should be using to see how much poke you're going to end up with.
Variables that affect flushness to the fender (or poke) are gonna be offset, rim width, tire width, and camber.
You can play with each to get the desired function/look that suits you...but you have to understand how each variable affects wheel/tire orientation.

You can figure it out for any vehicle by first getting your OE specs (example: the TRD pro has center bore of 95 mm and PCD of 6x139.7 +47.5)

Then figure out how many inches you want the wheel to move out based on your OE specs, for example you want to have your final result poke out ONE inch at the hub?
Using this calculator with those TRD pro wheels your new 8.5" wheel needs to be +22 ish.
You can adjust your wheel width and change your offset to get the same result.

If you want a perfectly flush tire/wheel setup to the fender just put a stick from the outside fender to the ground level and measure distance from the stick to the hub. Let's say it ends up being 1.5" so your offset needs to be 8.5 +10 on the new wheel. Or if you want a 9.0 width wheel your offset needs to be +15 for the same 285 OE tires.

Now if you upsize your tires 295+ then you're going to have more poke independent of offset.
If you want to hide some poke to make up for aggressive tires you can change your camber from the factory (+ to neutral) to -.25 to -.5

 

TireSize.com answers all your questions as far as how a new tire and wheel will fit. Wow awesome site!!!!! But is it correct
I use now a 295/70/18 on a stock TRD rim
If I go to a 20x9 rim with +20 offset the side wall of my tire moves out 1.54 inches!!!!!!! I used a tape measure holy chit that’s alot of Polk.

 

Socks....With sandals.


Firefighters.........

 

Relation race wheels wrapped in 35s Toyo Open Country RT Trails!

 

guilty. Just grabbed them to run outside LOL REAL QUICK

 

315/70/17 "C" KO2s method 318 +25

 

just an update, the correct hub rings were finally sent and they will be installed friday @ 10 am. the 3 that came with the wheels were not the correct size, incase any that are interested in fuel wheels. might want to make sure the distributor for who ever you are buying them from send the correct ones since the 3 sent normally are not the correct size.

 

Or you could skip the hub rings all together and get some hubcentric wheels

Very few choices but I found ones at: https://fastco.ca/Fast-Wheels/Alloy-Wheels?wheelCategory=12

 

I haven't seen it in this thread yet, so here's another 18" option:
FN Wheels BFD
It's in the small print - 18x9, +20 offset, 6x139.7, 2500 lb load rating, and 95.2mm hubcentric bore, specifically for the new Tundras and Sequoias.

The load rating isn't the greatest, but it's enough for most, and the first iteration of these wheels came in under 23 lbs. The fine print says these have been strengthened, so I assume that means a little heavier. Mid 20s for an 18x9 is pretty light.

 

Those look like a great option.

 

I have the recons too. They look awesome. I didn’t even read the reviews about wet performance. Guess I’ll find out when it rains lol.

 

Looks good! Is that stock height?

 

Considering these same exact tires and I have the same wheels. You said you did a leveling kit, do you think that would be required in order to avoid rubbing?

 

Seems crazy for what wheels cost that u may need hub rings to get the wheel to properly fit…I guess I’m old school but that would bug the hell out of me.

 

even if i was in the market for hub centric wheels, me being in ND and you in BC, the cost would be too much

 

Nodak67, Just pointing out options and I am sure these are available through out North America.

The advantages as I see them are, Flow Formed, Light Weight, Hub Centric and Decent Price. When I checked pricing, these worked out to be about half the price of Methods if I were to order them from a local wheel shop, for example.

I watch people struggle with hub rings and shops sending the wrong rings.

 

New here , picked up my 22 limited a few weeks back no off-road package
So it has the regular 20inch alloy wheels
265/60/r20

My question is can i go 18 inch wheels? With a 275 or 285? Without a lift
And would i have to offset or anything?