General Supercharger Thread

https://www.instagram.com/tundra_swat/

https://www.youtube.com/@medyalshamsi5904 this is the dude's youtube, just vids of the tundra but it scoots

 

They don't and can't sell the O2 Sim anymore. I had it on my tacoma though and passed an odb2 emissions read for registration

 

WTH.......

 

Pretty sure those got cracked down on at the same time the tunes for "rolling coal" diesels got outlawed.

You can still get the o2 spacers that's supposed to eliminate the code

 

Very true.

 

Well that’s lame lol

 

Big fan of those dudes

 

@reywcms You ordered another blower? what happened to the first one?

 

Just sold it to a buddy.

 

They're running some XAT parts in that motor.

 

That's crazy! The rate on my loan for the Tundra is 4.4% from last April. And I thought that was a tad too high. Not looking forward to getting any new loans

 

The info on the 750 is on a built motor. I could not find the post about they did not mention anything on the 750, but I did see the post about the 750 is on a certain pulley and all that. This is the response I received from our local ProSpeed shop. Their numbers differ from all other also but they still hold true at 600 at the crank for a Tundra. Here is the response

“The 750 package is on a built engine and transmission. We only go to 550whp on the stock engine so the 600 crank that you heard is correct.”

Out of the four that I know of for wheel HP this would still be way over so they might have a 5th way to figure out the HP numbers. Like I posted before there seems to be no set way because of all the variables?? I have no idea what they could be other than tires and a stock trans and stock motor there just is not much left?? I said Stock! anywhos Pro Speed 750 is on a built motor and trans.


And just out of curiosity I did ask for a rough estimate,,, 750 HP would be something to see!

 

An FYI at Summit racing they offer all sorts of High Flow Cats good for all sorts of HP starting at 99 dollars. These should take care of any Cat problems for those that have such.


From an earlier post about a build from PS it stated 60K I would almost bet that is for the 750 build?? That is almost a new HP Camaro?

 

Regarding the cats.. it isn't the hp they are rated for, it's simply how rich PS prefers to tune to keep the cylinders happy and cool that plugs them up on a stock engine. Chris, their tuner, has me at 10.1:1 AF and my cats lasted 800 miles and said that high flow cats won't last either.

 

Viktor's build was pushing 750 or there abouts last post he made.

 

Dang!! That ,?;:$^^^^. Sorry. Well there has to be something that will work,,

My thinking was they are high flow so they would be able to work no problem?? The extra was they handle high HP but I guess not.??.

 

“From an earlier post about a build from PS it stated 60K I would almost bet that is for the 750 build?? That is almost a new HP Camaro?[/QUOTE]”


Yup,, that was the 60k build,,, here is the reply,


“The last 750 build with complete engine and transmission with harrop supercharger was right around 50-60k”

there seems to be at least one running around somewhere in Texas??? Or somewhere????

 

Does this look correct? Green injectors versus Five-O 750's? Just got the below pic and was asked to give the shop a call. Not sure if they are just questioning the longer shaft or what. Just looking for confirmation I should be good here before I call them back.

@snivilous or anyone

 

On the note of 550whp being Prospeeds claimed max on a stock engine; even at a mild 15% drivetrain loss on a hub dyno that’s about 650 crank. 20% loss on a roller Dyno is pretty close to 700 crank at 550whp.

This leaves me to wonder, is drivetrain loss really a percentage that stays the same percentage as an engine makes more power? Shouldn’t it really be that it takes X amount of power to get the power from the crank to the wheels, and just because an engine makes more power doesn’t mean the drivetrain has to rob more of it?

A stock engine makes 381 for example, but you get 300ish at the wheels. Does that mean your are really looking at an 80hp drivetrain loss regardless of how much power the engine makes, that can be applied across the board? That’s 22% loss at 381hp, but 13.5% at 600hp. Into the rabbit hole….

 

They are fine. The stock injectors are the length of the 5.0s

 

Thanks. Any idea what they may be questioning then? I just tried to call them back, but got his voicemail.

 

my guess is the length

 

Probably just questioning why they look so different? As Rey said, stock style is what the Five-Os are. The TRD ones if anything are the questionable ones

 

They appear to be the same length as stock with the TRD green injectors being shorter that stock from what I can tell. I called and spoke with FiveO and sent them the picture, just waiting on them to respond as well. Maybe the tech is thinking I'm going back to stock injectors based on appearance and that is what they are trying to confirm.

 

Not likely perfectly linear across all power inputs but it won't be a flat rate either. If anything you could expect the losses to creep up with power.

 

I've seen it said that the % loss is an archaic way to measure, and that a certain amount of horsepower is needed to run everything and that's it. So pick your method, either the drivetrain takes 80hp to do its thing or takes 20%.

 

Got it, I think you guys are right. Just had my little panic attack for the day...hoping the install goes smoothly. I get nervous when I get a message to give them a call. Thanks for the quick response guys! Hopefully smooth sailing from here.

 

Here's stock vs TRD for reference

 

@Silver17 TLDR if all else stays the same friction will go up with load

From the last post here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/123432-drivetrain-loss-fixed.html

"The fixed percentage math works out better than the fixed HP loss math.
Quote:
There are two main factors involved in the drive train losses:
a) Rotational mass of the entire drive train. This is a fixed number, since the weight of these parts does not change.
b) friction. This number changes with load - friction goes up as load goes up - its part of the laws (yes laws) of physics. You can not get around this. This is the larger portion of the losses.
For a simple example look here:
http://www.school-for-champions.com...ce/friction.htm

Cliff notes: simple friction calculation:
Fr = u x Fn

where Fr = the resistive force of friction, u = the coefficient of friction, and Fn = the normal or perpendicular force pushing the two objects together. Fr and Fn are measured in units of force, which are pounds or newtons.

note the = sign, both sides are equal each other. So increase Fn (HP/Torque you are applying to the drive train) and you get a corresponding increase in Fr (Frictional losses of the drivetrain).
This is obviously simplfied, since to do the actual drivetrain calculation would require much higher order math and requires details about every single part in the drivetrain, their coefficient of friction, weights, etc.
Thats why a fixed percentage is the 'rule of thumb' since nobody, including the engineers who build and design the cars, do or even care about this level of detail."

 

I had the same question when my 5-O's came & the greens were my only reference. They fit just fine & visually oem are identical to the 5-0s