Switching to 5w30?

I don't think Rotella Gas Truck is discontinued. NAPA still has it on their site to order, and its still on the Shell site. There was a period where a lot of Rotella products were hard to get/unavailable due to a supposed additive supply issue.

I run T6 in my Miata and LX470, and will be using it in my Tundra once I finish my stockpile of TGMO. The bad for cats thing is kind of a myth for two reasons. 1) As you mentioned, you have to be burning oil for it to be an issue. 2) T6 5W40 is JASO MA/MA2 compliant. In order to meet MA/MA2 the oil has to meet API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM

https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

 

I believe the 15w40 also meets those and 15w40 is one of the acceptable oils per Toyota where as the 5w40 is not, although Im sure it is fine. I had no issues with T6 15w40 the past two summers. I have not seen Rotella Gas truck on the shelves in Walmart for years now and someone on a Ford forum got a response from Shell saying its discontinued.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1696875-shell-rotella-gas-truck-motor-oil-discontinued.html

 

Is the quaker state synthetic good quality?

 

I used to be very anal about what brand of oil I used in my vehicles. After tons of research and interviews with mechanics, I came to the conclusion that any synthetic will be fine as long as you change frequently (5k miles). I currently use super tech 5-30 or 0-20 in the tundra. Had a break in the weather last week so I changed my oil, didn’t have enough of either to make 8qts but the truck was on the ramps with no oil so I filled it with 4 0-20, 3 5-30 and one qt of 0-40 mobile 1, seems to run great. On another note, I recently picked up a new ram 2500 with the Cummins, it’s very specific on the oil with the new lifters, synthetic 5-40 or 10-30. I talk to everyone I know and see that has a new Cummins and ask them what oil are they running? 90% are running T4 15-40 because that’s what every old Cummins ran and their trucks are running fine. I definitely believe most people on here along with myself overthink it..

 

he said all oils are the same...



yes. Kirklands checking in.

 

https://youtu.be/qCsQMpaNmw8

 

Hard to decide which I like better, oil threads or octane threads.

 

trans cooler

 

I dunno, has that been around long enough to be considered one of the classics?

 

What adds More payload, e rated tires or airbags?

 

What's the biggest tire I can fit on stock suspension?

 

Has there ever been a discussion on why our gas mileage sucks?

 

Snapping turtles.

 

Sorry, I have mindlessly shout out nonsense disease.
It's like turrets, only sometimes it's whole sentences, paragraphs,....even short stories.
It's embarrassing.

 

(Spoiler, it's your right foot causing low mpg)

What mods can I do to increase mpg?

 

Love this guys Chanel. I switched to super tech a while ago. I use the 10k and still change it at 5k. Still way cheaper then M1 oil.

 

Most people don't keep their vehicle that long to even know if a certain oil was good, Amsoil come to mind.

 

My favorite line for any mod, gimmick, oil choice, snake oil additives, whatever, is.....
"I've been doing xyz for x-years/miles and haven't noticed any issues."
Because you tear down your engine every 20k mi and inspect for issues?
What are you expecting to "notice"?

 

Just noticed how it says "recommended viscosity", so its not that the 5.7 has to have 0w-20 or it will blow up, but more of a recommendation so its up to EPA/CAFE standards. Regardless, I will take their recommendations with a grain of salt and stick to 30.

 

Can I run 5w30?

 

I'll stick to 0w20 because 20 is the recommended grade/weight for this engine by the people who designed it and I don't know better than the folks who designed and built this engine and don't believe it's a gov conspiracy.
And the "0w" because it's F'n cold here in winter and I want that shit to flow on cold starts. Its usually between 80-90 (with a rare day or 2 of 95) and muggy on the hottest days of summer here, so 20 weight is what the engine operates most efficiently on, where I am.
If I ever move to AZ and it's regularly 115 in summer and never below freezing in winter, I'll switch to 5w30.
It's that simple for me.

 

I was being nice.
The truth is, I know everything.
I just can't remember most of it at the moment.

 

I’m sure it’s already been shared somewhere on this thread, but post #1 on this thread tells you everything you need to know IMO.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/update-5w-30-heavier-recommended-rotw.1215433/

 

I'll wait for the deathbed confessions of the Toyota engineers documentary on History channel to get the real story.

 

I agree. I will run 0-20 for as long as my warranty is intact. I think it would be an easy out for a manufacturer if you run into engine trouble.

 

Just put my 15w-40 “diesel” oil for the third summer. Still waiting for something to explode.

 

Picked up couple jugs of 5w30 for tomorow

 

Just curious, how did you arrive at using a heavier weight oil that's formulated for diesel engines?

 

Please define what a “diesel oil formulation” is, except what is on the label (for market segmentation). The 8 or 10 quart jugs are extremely convenient for changing my own oil and taking the old oil for recycling.
15w-40 is allowed for the global market.