General Supercharger Thread

Ya, looks like F PMP fuse on 2007-2012 are 15 amp fuses

https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-tundra-2007-2008-fuse-box-diagram/

And 2013 - 2021 have 25 amp fuses

https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-tundra-from-2013-fuse-box-diagram/

 

What is your injector duty cycle at after replacing the FPR and bumping up the pressure to 60?

 

I'm less concerned with the wiring/fuse than the voltage regulation by the Fuel pump ECU. Although, the wiring size and length of run doesn't allow for 25AMP on any chart I've seen.

 

I just did a drive I'm sending Tim. Where can I see that?

 

Did you delete the FFV switching/control valve and that separate regulator entirely? I wonder if the higher pressure from that big pump is just pushing by the diverter valve and dropping your pressure off at the rails.

 

Apparently, I'm dumber than a caveman, as that is scary obvious (injector duty) I was looking on the left thanks

The relay is removed, do I still need to delete it? I can ask Tim if he did, I told him it was an "ex" FFV.

Do you mean mechanically remove the FFV Valve? if so, yes, the hose is removed & only return & fuel hoses are connected, it is still electrically connected, I followed a thread here to accomplish that.

 

Yeah I was thinking as far has how Dan did it here just to remove the mechanical possibility of it ever flowing anything but the pressure at the FPR on the rails. https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/#post-2605294

 

Yeah, you'll need to make sure you only have 1 feed and 1 return, with the feed going straight to the rails, bypass that FFV valve. I missed that part of your setup.

 

This post has grounding a leg of the FFV relay & restoring it, before I do that can someone please verify my belief I need to ground the silver leg under made in japan:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/#post-2608560







This is my relay.

 

I followed this post from the same thread for the fuel lines on my non flex basket.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7...system-diy-project.101526/page-2#post-2782948

Possibly after a certain year they switched the hoses, I had no fuel his way & had to swap them on the 2019 Sequoia basket I have.

 

I grounded that terminal & heard the valve click. I have slightly higher pressure, it goes higher at boost but still goes down under 30lbs, afrs are a bit better but still over 15

 

Kennebell responded:

someone wrote:

The only one we can offer for this would be the single universal BAP (pn# KB89069)

https://kennebell.net/?s=KB89069&post_type=product

His link just went back to the request, that is the one he stated. I would still need to drop the tank for this right?

 

Does you fuel still flow through the valve? I thought I read that he bypassed and plugged the valve and had a straight shot from the tank to the rail?

 

No fuel through the valve, the only hoses are the in & out, the valve is not closed but also not connected to fuel, only the wire harness

 

Maybe I need to plug the valve, that's easy enough.

 

If no fuel is going through the valve I don't see how it would affect anything, I would still plug to keep dirt/debris out though.

 

My logic was I'm never using it again, why bother? I'll plug it just in case.

 

The valve that actuated the plenum on the back of the OEM intake had nowhere to connect so was only electrically connected, I gave it vacuum from the intake & pressure stays over 45 & AFRs (revving in my driveway) stay under 15. (14.7 at redline, 14 sitting at 5500)

 

Ahh, so you had a vacuum leak all along...that explains it. I'm not sure about the Magnusson, but that's the ACIS and is eliminated on the Harrop.

 

No leak, just nowhere to connect (no mention in my instructions I saw) I connected it electrically. I'm just trying to weed out any possibilities so gave it vacuum.

I just sent Tim a new file after these changes.

This is with the Flex pump relay grounded & the loose plenum switch getting vacuum. Fuel pressure is not going under 40.

 

Oh, I see, it was plugged in but no hoses attached? So there was no leak, but also no vacuum signal? Also, that is not needed for a supercharged system, so you can remove and tape the electrical connection.

 

Sorry, didn't see your response, I'll get it out.

 

Yes, I reviewed the Magnusson installation instructions and it's not used.

 

Thanks, yup, no mention I saw but as I had no clue I left it. I figured they would have said dump it if that was the deal.

Thanks

 

No Problem, they jump around a bunch in the instructions...they have you remove the VSV from the Stock intake and attach to the reservoir bracket, but then have you connect all the coolant hoses before plugging it in:

...And then 80 steps later...

 

Glad I said that I saw.

LOL

It is gone, connector is taped up.

TY

 

Did not listen and follow directions.
10 minute time out for you.

 

I'm hanging my head in shame, unfortunately the issue is not resolved.

 

Ask your tuner at what rpm the ecu switches over to power enrichment. Stock is 70%, I think. Mine is tuned to go into PE at 35%. If yours is set at 50 you may not be into the throttle enough to make it switch. Revving it is not going to be enough, you need a load on it to check the fuel supply. Injectors and pump are plenty big enough. It is difficult to mash the throttle more when the AFRs are lean. I know that from my Harrop and the stock tune. It was lean as hell until I really got on it, until I had it tuned. FWIW I am running the stock FFV pump, Stage II pulley with LTH and mine stays at 10-10.5 up to redline. I don't even have a FP gauge but I did change to the boost referenced regulator that came with the Harrop. Just thinking.....Best of luck.

 

He sent this response from my read this afternoon.

in the last log it was still in closed loop so ecu was keeping afr at 14.7 takes 60% throttle to get open loop. which i'll probably lower to 50