1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Damn, I'm bummed about my winch f-up, that was time I didn't have to waste. Need to do all the door/mirror stuff quick so I think I have to jump on ordering up those latches. Don't want to reinstall door panels and then yank them. Also need to hunt down a white driver mirror with heat. I'll run the heater leads through to the kick panel and leave it for now, already have the mirror heat kit but not sure on how I'm activating it.

 

as it turns out, they do not, speak English in What.

edit: Mother********

 

Ok, quick recap of my day.
Removed mud flaps (fronts, rears already got the boot)
Removed chrome arch / fender flares. Test fit bushwackers. Looks good. Gonna get a wash before proceeding.
Removed door panels. Swapped passenger mirror. Forgot depinning tools so it’s not connected to power. I have the 6 pos male connectors though so should be quick and easy, then run leads for heat through the boot which will be hard.
Bolted on fog lights. Adapters don’t fit, they are for Taco H11. I’ll just crimp direct and say f it, direct to Deutsch 4 pos, add backlight later.
Removed bumper to try for the winch install. 50/50 chance and I lost. But at least I know the procedure now. Need fairlead off to bolt winch.
Dark and stinky in the shop but guys were cool. $125 to get me going on this. I’d rather work at home. My wife really doesn’t understand this at all and would be frustrated by me doing this. It’s not really ideal to work outside. So maybe I can take over one garage spot, leave the middle for her and the third for bikes and gear. That will still be tight.
Wish I had a shop. I look at crappy properties nearby at night for fun.
Eta: test fit driver mirror and no go there. Bummer.
Also, does someone want my chrome fender flares / wheel arches? They came off clean. A little sun baked but not bad. And I have a passenger non heated but with power chrome mirror if anyone needs one.

 

Well, that’s actually quite a bit for a day. Even if some stuff you found out needs to change or be redone. That’s pretty normal for me on most jobs…

 

Hell yeah, all I see here is a wall of WIN!

You deserve a beer reward. By the fire.

 

Meanwhile, counters are done so now I have to pivot to Dave the plumber.

 

A couple of other items.

1. My Teq grille is already busted, not too surprising, bottom passenger side stud holder rectangle thingy snapped off. I think it's just sorta poor design, using square metal studs which are supposed to hold against plastic. I wonder how it could be redesigned for improved strength.

2. I need to order door latches pronto. I have power locks. I'm guessing that's the clear difference here.

 

Unspool it and respool the correct way, then just switch the control wires at the solenoid

 

How long until the remodel is done and you get your garage back?

 

This is a good question. I think, since counters are in now (I'll grab a photo) I have to bust a move on the dishwasher and sink/disposal/drain/faucet. Then we gotta get the oven in but that's bulky so I'll have help. The range is mostly on the GC I think, setting it on the cabinet, I already did the electrical and we had the gas run. The hood I'll have to likely assist if the receptacle isn't luckily perfect and I haven't done finish electrical on it. Then, once we paint, I'll have to swap over all the temp receptacles to legit GFCI protected stuff but I can do that at night, it's quiet work.

Next week we have the water heater install. I kinda got forced to go tankless because we are super tight on physical space where the water heater sits. But it's also nice to have tankless for our usage patterns which are very peaky, we might have guests and lots of use then we'll have very minimal use during weekday mornings once kids go to school. That's mostly on the heater guy but I have to get all my crap out of his way (fridge, one full set of costco shelves with a ton of stuff, my workbench, some screens stored up high and maybe the crossbars for holding those screens. So, big day for him and probably a decent day for me. I think that's next week sometime.

Two new pipes for the garage, one for water heater vent/air intake and one for the kitchen hood exhaust, all going near the existing furnace exhaust. Ironically, nothing will go to the roof after this, I'll have a vent stack going straight up which sits unused. It'd be nice if I could somehow tap into it for something like the laundry room fan but demo'ing more drywall is not on my list of fun stuff to do. Another "bummer" here is that the exit wall is the only spot for a shop so if I did an attached shop I'm not sure if I could elbow and vent through the roof or what the complications would be with all that venting.

Anyway, let's say I'm busy AF for the next 2 weeks and then, other than paint and final electrical, kitchen is basically done. Wife wants to work on replacing the yuck carpet after that which means addressing the railings (dogs and kids easily fit through them) and that could involve me if we did cables or something. But that's not massive work either even if I'm involved, mostly just moving furniture when it's go time.

But to get the garage usable, the trick is figuring out which spot of the 3 bays I'll use to work on and if I can leave a vehicle there for days or weeks at a time.

The center spot is really ideal to work on things but it has concrete stairs and the door to the kitchen plus the fridge right there and it's where my wife parks. Can't fit either of the long trucks in that spot with the door closed because of the stairs so it's a door open sorta thing. Works well for a few hours at a time and then reposition everything once done but it does put a damper on long term work and force some level of semi-complete / driveable.

The east spot has shelves on one wall so the center would need to be vacated for enough room to work on things with doors open so if I keep things driveable it's probably better to just work on them in the center spot. Though, the combo of removing the van from the center then repositioning to gain space to work while avoiding blocking the stairs, that has some potential. Then a quick adjustment to smash it close to the wall at the end of the day so we can park in the middle.

The west spot is the single door so there's some space to where I could possibly leave something parked with the battery disconnected for a longer period, especially if I clear out the east bay and my wife parks more toward the middle of the 2 bay door giving more space to the west. That's probably the ideal spot for long term work and I might be able to close the door if I can get the truck in and parked in a good layout, it'll be tight just getting through the door so getting it over towards the center might be pretty difficult. I've yet to try that. Only downside is that part is the darkest as all my current lighting is focused on the front and mostly in the center plus my bikes are up high and my workbench and toolboxes are on the east side. All of that is stuff which can be fine tuned.

We also have a cargo bike which takes up a bunch of space, I have a large compressor I need to find a home for, and I have two toolboxes and a workbench but they all have wheels, miter saw but it folds up, etc. Bunch of spare parts to either toss or stash, old laundry sink, spare wire, boxes of electrical, etc, most can go on shelves once I can start cleaning things up.

I should try to have the Tundra fully driveable by July when my buddy comes to visit so he can borrow it (he is not confident with his MT skills). But it's so damn tempting when you have the door panels off to hit up all the major work, latches, window weatherstrip, mirrors, sound deadening, and I should probably figure out door checks. Then again it's not like removing the panels more than once is too much work, just that I hate closing up halfway.

Long story short, I wish I had a dedicated shop and I'd almost rather work outside if I had a pad, once it warms up a bit because it's not dark and it's nice to have space to lay things out.

The funny part is, slab, 4 walls and a roof there's really nothing to a basic shop, even some windows wouldn't break the bank. But the permits and the process and the politics just have it iced. I'm hoping I can get some wood chips to cover the mud hole as a short term "solution" to my parking trouble.

Hopefully I'll be able to figure some of this out for some truck time in June. Let's see how it goes.

 

I think, now that I know the R&R on the bumper, that I'll just suck up one more round to get it positioned correctly. I figured out all the tricks I needed to know, that was the painful part. It's possible when properly mounted that the control box will have more space too. I'll have to see, we have that small radiator on the passenger side some some other stuff, driver side does seem like it's got more clearance, but that's all up high and I think we want the control box low if possible.

I'd lose sleep knowing I had it backwards, now that I know how it's supposed to go. I should have looked it up before stuffing it in, but it was dark and my hands were dirty and I wasn't double-checking myself.

 

Before:



After:


The fridge sticks out a bunch. I honestly would love to reframe the wall behind it to push the laundry sink back and recess the fridge so it’s flush. But with a vent/drain and water supply already in there it’s a ton of work just to have a little bit of extra walk space. Cheaper to have just bought a counter depth fridge.

 

Damn, you still got a ways to go. It looks great so far! Sounds like you've got everything planned out well as usual.

I'd love to even have a garage to work in at this point. Me and the gf just aren't at a point yet where we can make that happen. Her house needs a lot of work to sell, and the market is still insane. We want to build a barndo on an acre so we can eventually have a shop, but even that's way to expensive for what it is. Hell, a roll of romex is $175! They used to be $50! I just can't see building a house/barndo for $250k, when it's actually worth $175k.

 

Yeah, prices suck for sure.

I’m not saying I have 250 cause I don’t but I think I could scrape together 50-60 ish for a slab, walls and roof. But that’s probably what I would have to spend on paperwork I suspect. That’s what irks me.

 

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...1696/FRONT-DOOR-LOCK--HANDLE/841420-6753.html

Your 2002 truck, front door assemblies ^^

Note there are two exploded images:

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The one on the left is POWER DOOR LOCK, the one on the right is NON POWER, as you see indicated - note the lack of power indication on the right-hand image:

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In this case, it looks like they're boxing the power locking mechanism as "69310" for the right hand assembly, and "69320" as the left-hand assembly. But here's where shit gets weird.... the driver's side clearly shows there's a power lock option at double the cost. Which is weird. But the passenger doesn't. And they don't give a part number for just the mechanism, like they do with the RIGHT EXPLODED. However, I CLEARLY see in the image the non-power exploded carries a different part designation, "69303C" and "69304C" for the non-power mechanism, which, interestingly isn't in the list.

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So I dug a little bit. This is what you'll get with 693100c010, according to Toyota Parts Deal: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~lock~assy~front~door~rh~69310-0c010.html
And for the other part 693200c010: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~lock~assy~front~door~lh~69320-0c010.html

I was able to find this eBay listing for two out of stock products with those numbers, and the seller listed the other "6930_0c010" numbers in the parts area too, adding to the confusion.
My best logical guess is, the parts system is missing the ball on this, and the 6930_0c010 part number is the non-power and/or it's a complete assembly with actuator.

Honestly, I'd probably see if you could get on the horn with a dealership to confirm before ordering. I think your part numbers will be 693100c010 and 693200c010. but I'm not working at a Toyota parts department.

​

 

The video linked in the specific thread indicates that you have to swap over the actuator. So perhaps one part works for both powered and non powered. Which would make sense for streamlining things. But that only explains the passenger side, doesn’t tell me if I can do the same on the driver side. Because my power stuff works fine.

 

Looks good. Even though I absolutely despise upper cabinets. I get it for a pantry, I guess, but I hate having cabinets over counters. Looks like ass and it's impractical, just leads to collecting excess shit, and my wife asking me to grab things she can't reach, because nobody wants to get a damn ladder every time they want to go in a cabinet.

FYI, my frige sticks out similarly, in a similar config. I can take pics later. You actually get used to it after a while, it started to feel almost like a serif the cabinetry to me, a cornerpiece.

Possibly. You got me beat on the exact part number. I don't like spending other people's money, and Toyota Parts shops don't usually have no-questions-asked returns will full refund unless they choose the part.

 

I’ll ask your friend, Eric

 

On upper cabinets, they are nice for rarely used glassware. Also kinda nice in corners. But we have far fewer of them than before.

 

Eric gave me 2 part numbers, one D/C'd I asked him what I do now

 

Happy 1 year anniversary! @5N0W808, @Mr.bee, @MrDirtjumper. @txagg

 

I just finished that western son this past weekend, it’s good stuff!

 

Can someone explain why a toyota door check is $180 and a honda one for my son's accord is $20?

 

Corinthian plastic.

Wait...tactile Corinthian plastic.

(I won't disagree that it's a rip off though)

 

Search the forum. Some us have found cheap door checks that work with a little modifying.


https://www.google.com/search?q=doo...DMC4ymAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

 

I thought the problem with the OEM door checks was that they weren't as good as the alternatives and wear out over time? Is that incorrect?

 

Roads around me suck, like, worse than backroads sometimes.

Sometimes that leads to cool road scores for tools and supplies.

Today it was an old ass SEARS wrench made in Taiwan, which would probably put it around the mid-late 80s? I'd need ot look it up.

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Sears had their own brand of hand tools? Why weren’t you buying made in the USA Craftsman back then? Oh wait, you found that right? haha

 

I have absolutely no idea, honestly. I was surprised to see it too. I had a Craftsman almost identical to this in a kit when I was a kid. The lever on it, the width, height, and thickness reminds me of it exactly. Like, very distinct memory for me.

edit - -- HOLY SHIT! I just looked it up on fleaBay and sure enough, this is the exact kit I had as a kid, but it was labeled as CRAFTSMAN. My first ratchet set ever.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314308668895