Replacing terrible lift

Make it 2", not 3.5". You won't need the rear lift, and you'll have to do the same work for tire clearance regardless.

Any easy larger front tire is the 295/70r18 which is ~34.3x11.6. 35x12.5 are really ~34.5x11.9 on a 9" rim, so there is hardly any difference. But the 295s will fit on 8" (stock) width if you want that. If you go aftermarket be sure to go with +25 offset or more (stock is +60), and making clearance should be easy.

 

I've been looking at this kit from exitoffroad.

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-tundra-2-0″-3-0″-mra-suspension-kit-for-2007-2021-4x4-v8/

 

Different shocks may help, but I don't see the point of longer ones. The top spacer is doing the same thing. The shitty part is the spacer inside that is preloading the spring... that will make it ride rough as crap.

Get a new top spacer that matches the lift, and some good shocks. Or... drop it to 2", which is what I'd do. No reason to settle for more lift if you don't want it...

Actually I'm not sure how these bracket lifts work. If that spacer came out of the coil would his lift drop to 3-4", and have good up and down travel? Seems like it would, and that would be easy.

 

The spindle (the part between the UCA and the LCA) is longer to accommodate the 6” lift in addition to the bracket that lowers the LCA. You need to use a coilover that is in the 6” lift range to fill that space and maintain the geometry. If you get a 6” coilover, you can eliminate both spacers and have a solid unit between the upper and lower mounts. At this point it’s all or nothing. Keep the lift and get a better coilover, or ditch the lift and start welding back the original factory parts.

 

I would love to drop it I definitely want the 3.5 though as I do want some extra height and most importantly I want options. At this 6in I currently have it’s basically rough country or nothing. I don’t really have the ability to do a drop anyways though. I have zero ability to weld on factory parts

 

I ditched my RL spacers and OEM coils for Fox 2.5s.... and then pushed it up to 7.5". I realize that's the opposite direction you're headed but the Fox option will be amazing for keeping that 6" lift. I got mine a few years ago for around $2500 for both.

 

Thanks, I'm not experienced with these... but I did a little looking around and saw that some of these lifts do not correct to factory geometry; they actually include some shock lift in addition. Or it's possible that it's a 4" lift with an extra coil spacer to get 6". The LCA and CVs look like they are sloped too much for stock.

 

That’s how all lifts work. Push the suspension (and by association the tire) away from the body of the truck. You won’t have stock angles on a lift.

 

Hard to tell in that pic but they don't look bad at all.

 

So how exactly did you do the rear?

 

I see a lot of coilovers saying they are for 07-21, if that’s the case you’d think there would be a lot more options for 6in coilovers. Am I missing something?


As I said before it’s not that I mind the lift, I’ve never had a truck this high and I’m just concerned about being top heavy on a trail. Do you think that concern is valid if I kept this height?

 

Not bad... just more than stock.

The normal way to do <3.5" lifts is to lengthen the shock + spring preload. That pivots the LCA and wheel down. Instead of +5 and -5 inch travel, you now have +7 and -3 for instance. He has a bracket lift though, which is a spacer between the suspension and drivetrain, and the frame. Totally different. If you space it the same as the lift you should have +5 and -5 like stock.

 

It’s the reality you have. One of the reasons to go wider on the wheels and tires. There aren’t a lot of 6” coilovers because only certain companies make the 6” bracket lifts. BDS kits have Fox shocks, but can’t find them outside of the kit.

 

So which one is it, you keep saying you don’t know how these kits work and you’re not experienced with them, and you’re posting how they work. It’s no longer the original factory setup, the geometry will change. Some of the lift is the lowering of the control arm mounting point and adding a longer spindle, some of the lift is from the effectively longer coilover.

 

If that's true then he should be able to get rid of the coilover part of it, and drop to 4" or so, yes? Won't he have stock geometry then?

 

You won't buy these off the net ready to go. Get with a company like @AccuTune Offroad and they can set you up

 

Alignment may be an issue. Upper control arms look relatively flat, the lift may not accommodate a shorter coilover without changing the camber. Could you run a shorter coilover? Pull the short spacer out and see how it behaves and if it will align. I’ve got a feeling that with both of those spacers he’s already higher than 6” of lift.

 

You can put the appropriate length spacer on the top of the coilover to match the specific lift you have. Any coilover should work. The shock you have looks like a standard length with 2 spacers added... one within the shock to add spring preload, and one external to make the shock effectively longer.

Bracket lifts aren't ideal for offroad. The bracket part gains nothing in ground clearance in the front, and the diff still hangs down in the rear. It does give you better approach and departure angles but I think it's mainly for looks. Lower CG is good on road and off.

 

Oh, I see... ya, you might be right about that.

 

So I was looking at the Ironman foam cell kit, could this be made to work ? Sorry again man I’m totally new to this

 

I love the shocks. They had some issues with coils rubbing the shock bodies, but that has been fixed.

I can't say for certain... but if your current geometry and alignment is good then you should have no issues if you stick with 6". The FCPros are typically set up for a 3.5" lift, so you'd add a spacer on top that adds 2.5" lift in addition (it would be more like 1.5" thick I think). I don't remember how much the rear leafs add, but you'd do the same there... some with the leafs and the rest with a block, shackle or both.

If you'd like to take some more pictures, post up where your alignment cams are adjusted. They are on the LCA pivots. You'll see the markings. Also if it's convenient to park at a level spot, line up your front and rear tires and see if fronts are pointing straight up or visually tilted in our out vs the rears. That would be camber. Also see if the outer sides of front tires line up with the rear (a long straightedge might help); that would be toe. If the alignment is off very much you'll be able to see it.

 

ok this made up my mind…. I’m gonna have to find someone to reweld the front end. Someone posted some parts I’d need, I have to go look and see what’s actually necessary. I’m gonna do that Ironman kit with a rebuilt front end. Hopefully I can keep under 3k wish me luck

 

Not sure how much you’re in the truck but you may want to switch it out for an unmodded (or modded close to how you want) Tundra and pay for the new parts. Otherwise you’re paying for the fix and getting all the wear and tear that likely did to the vehicle over the 100k miles it may have been on there.

 

Yeah, scrap that garbage and start over. Start with calling some offroad fab shops and get some quotes. If you get lucky, a shop may have just installed a bracket lift on a tundra and have the cut out cross member on hand. Or maybe find someone on the forum who is about to install one. Then it’s a pretty simple weld job. And be sure to check your wheel offset. A lot of the monster lifts will have a ridiculous negative offset which won’t work on a lower lift.

 

i do plan to get new tires and wheels too but yeah that’s the plan. I want this thing to be functional

 

This.

And if not, they might be able to work out some combination of coilover length and spring rate that would work for this kit as it sits. Or talk you into a full blown longtravel setup.

I have no experience with bracket lifts on Tundras but I do have some with bracket lifts in general. I have one on my 80s 4x4 truck (came with it). Truck was set up for 35s, I relaxed it a bit (to ~3") and have 33s on it. I looked into removing it and basically it would involve an entire front suspension and frame section along with a lot of cutting and welding to restore all the OEM pickup points.

To get rid most bracket lifts not only will you need new crossmembers but you will likely need new spindles, steering pickup points etc. Basically need all new everything. Something else that happens with a lot of these kits is that when the lower control arm drop brackets are installed, the alignment cam eccentric slot gets hogged out for larger hardware. They really do damn near irreparably butcher trucks to put these kits on them.

Good luck.

 

What is the height of the spacer on TOP of the shock. What is the height of the lower crossmember drop? Bolt to bolt.

if both are 6 inches, then just get some replacement OE shocks/springs.

There are lots of replacements that fit the back. But those springs are 16 years old, maybe just consider new rear lift leaf springs anyways

 

That looks like the first generation Pro Comp 6 inch lift. I know because I have one attached to my truck sitting in my drive way. Its not intentionally double spacered on the coil, thats just the way it is. I also think your UCA is stock ... just an older Toyota part

The side of the spindle will have a part number 90-####. On mine the tie rods will impinge and bind on the coils, and in full suspension travel will bottom out the stock trd struts and either bend the rod at the bottom of the tube, or shove the whole rod end up inside the tube (blowing the shock, breaking it either way)

I broke a shock this week. Need to replace all shocks and get after suspension bushings anyway. Got on here to do some research ... just today ... to look up what works ... I found threads on this lift and its issues. Even contacted a couple members who gave me great info. I sent a email to pro comp for upgraded parts. I will let the OP know if it pans out and I get spindles and tie rods from them. or if a whole new kit is required, or contact them yourself.

Even if I do not get an answer or upgraded parts from ProComp. That shock breaking, and tie rod ending binding is a safety issue tho. One would think they would try to get every one of those off the road for liability sake.

Bump stops from Durobumps would fix the shock breakage issue ... I think.

As for upgrades. I am going down a similar jourey, I want it to be very capable, but would like to keep the 35's and lift. It seems that all the name brand shock company have coils for our lift, ranging from a grand to over 3, and rear shocks as well. ICON, KING, FOX, ADS you just have to call a dealer.

I think Im going to go with the ReadyLift Bilstein B8 8125 coils for 6 to 8 in lifts and Bilsten 5215 33-230436 for the rear. I'd like to find the 8100 part number for the appropriate rear, haven"t yet tho.

If you want to get rid of the blocks in back. Skyjacker, Deaver, Alcan, lots of options from slightly expensive to very expensive for a new pack. Its difficult to be off road super capable and not make big trade offs on weight capacity with springs.

I'll share some of what my partial day of research panned out:

Not many shock builders/retailers have 6 inch lift stuff in stock, but will build it for you ... for $$$
There's lots to learn about progressive vs digressive valving and ride zones, bump zones, adjustability, etc
Coachbuilder has some good stuff for upgrades / replacement of old worn out parts
Superpro for bushings
Solid Offroad for motor mounts
Icon Delta Joints (probably similar money to just get a new UCA vs re bush and ball joint old)
Progressive packs and Air bags with the off road cradle (Daystar) is probably the most capable rear spring set up unless you are going extreme.

 

Don't forget these guys.
https://www.roughcountry.com/toyota-vertex-coilovers-689013.html
and
https://www.roughcountry.com/toyota-vertex-shocks-699013.html

After a couple 1000 miles, I'm happy with their performance.

<---- ProComp 6" with RXT leaf packs, air bags and cradles.

 

I might have given the wrong part number for the 5100 series rear 24-286251 is what bilstein site says is for a 4 in lift. I think I got the other number off of a forum.