Dasaita vivid11 in 2017 Tundra SR5

It’s set to the setting everyone in there was saying worked

 

id scroll thru and pick thru them. mine was totally different from they said. took me a few days to get everything working, was a pain

 

Sure I’ll try that…however whatever the problem was that began with the new head unit is now doing the same exact things with the old head unit despite swapping it back and the canbus with that one that worked fine prior to.

 

How does the HU deal with the lower impedance speakers? It doesn't overheat?

 

So messing around thinking either back speakers are blown or it’s something else. Checked every fuse I could think off short of pulling every fuse under the dash and physically looking at them. Front doors have some to them it may be time to replace. However can ANYONE at all tell me what would cause the door beep to suddenly go away and then not return when headunit is changed back to previous one? Tonight I very well may put the Dasaita back in

 

I did get the headunit to overheat, once, after playing my stereo at near-loudest volume on a road trip for 3+ hours. The factory "amp" might as well be made of dirt and water, for all the muddy audio it outputs. I'll trade not being able to blare at max volume for long periods of time, for overall much better quality.

Funny story, doing that also popped my passenger-side front door speaker, and it now buzzes a little, I'll have to replace it, darn. =) If it can blow the OEM speakers, it's probably doing its job just fine.

 

So your HU is utilizing the OEM amplifier?

 

See the weird thing here about this to me is, both the front and back door speakers stopped working simultaneously. The Dasaita headunits default to starting at low-nearly-silence audio levels, so it wouldn't have completely blown out your speakers just starting up the first time. Something's up.

I recommend replacing (don't check - replace - fuses are $0.15) replacing the 15A Radio fuse and maybe the Panel one.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fuse-block-location-for-2018-tundra.27830/#post-1459509

 

Nope. Eliminated it and removed it from the truck. Sitting on a shelf.

 

I’ll give that a go. Bypassed not sure if it did anything or not but I’ll figure it out

 

That may be it as well. Super low didn’t catch it but rears may have been blown for years and I didn’t notice

 

I am interested to see some pictures of this new model of head unit installed. This is by far the best looking option if the photos on the Dasaita site are accurate.

 

DId you get this working?
I'm a little confused about what you have and haven't done.

There is indeed a fuse for your OEM amp under the hood and it sounds like it's blown.
My 2014;



The reason you hear the dash speakers are that they are directly powered by the HU.
The door speakers go thru the under seat amp.
It sure sounds like that amp isn't getting power.
Keep in mind you don't have a rear speaker #2 because you have a double cab
If you had a crewmax you'd be hearing the tweeters in the rear doors, as they are also powered by the HU...




As @MedCityMoto suggested, you could certainly bypass your OEM amp using the adapter posted earlier.
Just connect the speaker wiring output from the HU to the input of the door speaker wiring under the front seat.

This might help you with that bypass.


J144 (Smaller factory amp harness) 7 wires

Pin 1 - Front Right Output to Speaker (+) - Light Green
Pin 2 - Front Left Output to Speaker (+) - Violet
Pin 3 - Accessory/Switched 12v [Remote In] - Sky Blue
Pin 4 - 12v Constant [Power] - Red
Pin 5 - Front Right Output to Speaker (-) - Blue
Pin 6 - Front Left Output to Speaker (-) - Pink
Pin 7 - Ground - White and Black (NOTE: The factory wiring diagram says that ground is Pin 9, but I confirmed that Pin 7 is actually the ground. It is a white and black wire. )

J145 12 wires

Pin 1 - Front Left Signal (+) - Brown
Pin 2 - Front Right Signal (+) - Pink
Pin 3 - Rear Left Signal (+) - Light Green
Pin 4 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (+) - Red
Pin 5 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (+) - White
Pin 6 - Front Left Signal (-) - Beige
Pin 7 - Front Right Signal (-) - Gray
Pin 8 - Rear Left Signal (-) - Black
Pin 9 - Rear Right Signal (+) - Blue
Pin 10 - Rear Right Signal (-) - White
Pin 11 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (-) - Violet
Pin 12 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (-) - Green

 

I got it sorted. The stereo connector came loose. However nothing out the rear speakers it sounds somewhat like it did with the pioneer. Needs better tuning and will be doing the upgrade from ********* shortly after work chaos slows. Pretty sure I blew the rear speakers years ago and never noticed

 

None of your colors match to the harness ordered to bypass. Small from factory hookup into amp for harness to bypass white, white/black, grey, grey/black, black, black, red, yellow

bigger harness
White, white/black, grey, grey/black, 2 sets purple, purple/black, 2 sets green, green/black

 

Are most people happy with this head unit?

 

I am content currently. It’ll be better once I upgrade the stock speakers and amp. I did have to get the car play inline usb thing and download autokit for car play to work properly but small price. Once I tune it post upgrade I’m sure I’ll be completely happy. It does have some weird things autoprogrammed such as “you have been driving for 2 hours maybe take a break?” Pop up which I just hit dismiss to. But 2.5 hr drive where the double din pioneer which filled the whole dash would overheat and reset a few times it didn’t do that once.

 

Does it not come stock with wireless Carplay?

 

I couldn’t get it to do it properly. And I keep mine hardwired. I’m driving don’t need my phone in my hand. Plus it uses my gps from phone ‍♂️

 

I added the

$53 motorola MA1 , the only google authorized wireless android auto car adapter, smartphone to screen wireless bridge car accessories, USB type-a

motorola MA1 adapter and it works great. wish they had more apps avail but i guess they are working on that.

 

once u start with tuning, holy shit, my lowest volume was loud lol. i still have to mess with it more

 

So it just had wired Android auto when you bought it? Did your steering wheel controls work well with it?

 

steering controls worked, no issues there. i didnt want a wired android so i had gotten the ma1 for a good deal used that from the beginning,

 

@PhuckEwe
how do you like the stereo so far? Any complains or issues with it?

 

Mine did the same thing initially. I didn’t purchase a bypass harness, instead I purchased a harness for around $30 that was wired for the amplifier and tied it in. No issues almost 6 months later.

 

Yes. Every now and then it may cut out or act up. Every now and then I’ll have to do a quick restart and it will act fine.

 

It randomly gets stuck black screen on boot have to unhook battery and rehook up. And it works. Apparently it’s a vivid issue

 

Can you post a screenshot of your audio settings and I’ll give it a run I was going to get the ********* setup but that’s a down the road thing. Don’t want to mess with tearing doors off and wiring and putting back together currently with my work schedule. Nor do I want to pay someone to do it and tune everything being without my vehicle for however long.

 

im looking at the Dasaita unit as we type this.

I also have bypassed my factory amp for this setup. Hoping the Dasaita works well when all done.