Engine Failure

Well, this is interesting. My old 5.7 l is non turbo obviously so this got me wondering about my older 16 BMW.
FROM Google. BMW turbos get their oil and coolant supply from the engine block through dedicated lines. Cooling demands are managed by the engine computer which will continue pumping coolant through the block and turbos even if the engine is off.
So the Tundra Hybrid does have a different turbo controller? Are the turbos the same part number?

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/KdCTTCRVZxs?feature=share

 

This technical reviews claims the turbos are electronically controlled and can pump coolant to the turbo when the engine is off. The turbo review starts at about 7:30. I believe this is non hybrid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKRlBoj0s7E

 

Yes the Tundra has a separate coolant loop for the turbos with an electric water pump. It will keep coolant circulating if you shut down when very hot. Of course it’s always better if you can keep the oil circulating as well.

 

It is non hybrid model, mentioned at about 30:30.

 

Its possible that we will start to find out as the miles stack up....

 

After reading several articles and watching some videos, I do not think it’s a show stopper. The tundra has an electric pump for the turbos that will kick and circulate till the temp drops. The tundra does not circulate the oil though but it is probably not that serious. That is why they said to let it idle. Be sure to use synthetic oil though.

 

I wonder if it’s not the turbos but the head and head gasket as the reason for the 1 minute idle time. Why the hybrid doesn’t need that idle time is strange to me still, still no answer from anyone on that.

Turbo engines generate extra heat not just for the turbo area, but the head and whole engine. I talked about this in a previous thread but a GM engineer in a recent interview touted the 2.7 turbo as having an electric water pump still running full speed during an abrupt stop after a hard towing pull vs others that’ll cook the engine because of a belt driven water pump. He was comparing only to other turbo engines in the market. That’s why I think that idle time is in the manual, for those scenarios, im guessing the weak link is the head gasket, won’t take much overheating to cook one of those. That’s why I don’t get why or how the Hybrid could prevent that and not need that idle time. The GM 2.7 solves that issue with an electric water pump. Doesn’t appear the 3.4 tundra turbo will. It’s an extreme scenario, but a legitimate concern most truck guys like us do encounter when towing a lot though.

 

Because hybrid will shut off the engine to save gas, and there's probably no easy way to idle it, so it's too much to ask of regular truck owners.

Someone with a hybrid correct me if my guess is wrong

 

Hybrid owner here, the truck will stay on in sport mode or towing, sometimes the truck in normal or eco mode will stay on for like 30 seconds to a minute or so when in park then engine turns off and runs on hybrid for a while.

i have to mention that while on hybrid and parked I hear all kinds of noises like actuators and what sounds like pumps switching on and off but can’t not confirm if any are related to recirculating coolant or oil.

 

Thank you for explaining.

So as I thought... Hybrid's goal is NOT to idle in order to save fuel most likely.

And to tell average Tundra hybrid owner to make sure you use Tow mode or Sport to cool down the turbos won't really fly

 

Just wanted to give an update! I’ve had the truck back for a bit and have put about 500 miles on it, and haven’t had any issues. So far, haven’t had any issues with rattles or anything that I was concerned about. Everything works correctly (including rear air suspension, aftermarket grille lights, etc.). Biggest question now is waiting to hear back from Toyota on the requested warranty extension, as well as if associated costs will be reimbursed. Only odd thing I’ve notice is that at idle, the revs seem to spike occasionally (mildly, not a ton) and it gets a touch rough when that happens, and then it’s back to normal. Happens whether or not climate control is running.

 

I would let them know that right away so its documented and not a "new condition" outside the powertrain warranty all the sudden

 

I would imagine that even the 1 minute cool down isnt really an issue in 99% of situations. Think about it. If you are driving at 62 mph or more, you're probably going to gradually slow down, not instantly stop and jump out of the truck and run into starbucks in 5 seconds. You would normally come down from speed with the engine not producing and heat but coolant still flowing for a reasonable amount of time.

The coolant for the intercooler and turbos is separate from the engine coolant and is driven by an electric pump. It goes through the intercooler and then the turbos, then to the heat exchangers on either side of the radiator.

 

Or any late model vehicle that needs major engine repair.

 

me

 

I have 22 Tundra Platinum with just over 22K miles now, just over 1 year old. Checking underneath truck looking at engine/transmission bell housing. Appears that something has weeped out of the housing gasket area. Cleaned with some degreaser on a hand towel and going to check on it regularly to see if it continues to weep. My Toyota dealership just performed the 20,000 mile service, actually changed oil at 21,600 miles and said nothing about it. They hounded me 3 times about doing a front end wheel alignment, sure wish they would inspect better and consult with me about this possible leak. It seems that every time I take my vehicle in for routine service, this dealership screws up something on my truck. I would have to guess that the rear main seal wasn't caused by them, but sure would have been nice that they warned me of the problem so Toyota can fix during 3yr/36K warranty period. Is the Tundra having rear main seal issues across the board? I won't ever buy first year model as this Tundra seems to have way to many issues. Oh, now my tonneau cover is on a recall for possibly flying off during driving. Crazy......

 

Maybe it’s the same failure as this truck had? I’ve definitely seen that particular issue mentioned a few times now.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I had the same weep soon after purchasing my truck. I actually noticed it really early on. Did the same thing. Cleaned it off the bell housing and it's never returned in 15k+ miles. Mentioned it to the dealer before I did it so they could document it. They said it was normal for excess lube to come through the weep hole during the break-in period. Normally, I'm skeptical but in the case...I think they were right.

Obviously, keep an eye on it. I take a look at it every time I drop my skid plate.

Edit: Found the original picture. This is what it looked like when I took the picture (to give to the dealer for documentation). There is a weep hole at the bell for excess lube to vacate the house. It was completely dry to the touch when I took this pic so it hadn't leaked in awhile. As mentioned above, hasn't returned since.

 

What weep hole?

 

Added a pic to my post. It's circled in red.

 

Oh, that one... It is there for a leaking rear main seal or transmission seal not overfilling the bell housing. It means one of those two seals is leaking. It is not assembly grease. New types of low friction seals forbid using lube on inner leap. It will not get better. The leak will slowly increase until leaked oil evaporation inside heated bell housing become unable to hide it.

Leaking RMS is a big problem in new Nissan/Infinity as I read. Maybe Japanese manufacturers switched over to a goofy seals supplier. Maybe Toyota switched to low friction seals that are very gentle and are easy to damage during installation, so under-educated assembly line worker wrecks the seals.

I believe this is another factory defect.

 

As I said, 15K miles later it's still clean as a whistle. If the RMS starts to fail & it starts to leak out of this area again, as long as it occurs before my extended warranty expires, then at least I'm covered. Until then, I'll keep an eye on it.

 

Yeah, in my case it took 100k miles and a few years for the leak to start dripping once in a while. It is a slow process. Unless crankcase ventilation breaks. Then it starts to pour

 

I've done the RMS job on my own (& helped a few buddies with theirs) XJ. It's a common problem on the 4.0L. I hate the job. I'll be happy to let a dealer handle this one. haha

 

I was under the truck reinstalling my skidplate. With all this talk about weepholes, I was feeling frisky so decided I’d show you guys mine. Must have went in dry at the factory, my weep hole is like the Sahara.

 

Thank you for the peek at yer hole!

 

See more by subscribing to my OnlyFans @ Showmethatweephole.

 

24 with less than 600 miles and my weep hole is wet with fresh oil. Bad rear main seal? Does toyota have a fix for this? Im gonna take to dealer this week