General Supercharger Thread

FrozenBoost has a port adapter for silicon hoses

https://www.frozenboost.com/holset-turbocharger/-p-500.html

 

That is what I'm trying to drill the hole for lol

 

You just need enough relief to space the grommet while keep the distance as close to OEM as possible. I used a step drill bit and stopped at the 5/8" step. You may be able to go slightly smaller but not much since you have to stuff the grommet in the hole.

 

I dont think the position of that nipple matters that much honestly. I think it's after the MAF so that oil that gets puked into the intake won't coat the MAF, otherwise it's a normal vacuum hose and going to the heads as I recall to relieve pressure, so isnt particularly important.

 

Yeah the only supported diameters are smaller than 4.5" so contour may be off.

 

Anyone done a built shortblock? Just thinking out loud and ideas for later lol.

 

I have been sitting on the fence about a full build. I don't drive the truck much and I thought I was finished the build, and ready to sell it and move on to a new build, but having a 1000hp Tundra keeps running through my mind. All in, full engine build, rear diff with gears, built transmission and a bigger blower is just over 50k. This forum makes it difficult, lol.

 

Pretty sure @ViktorG does.

 

Lol exactly. My thought was 800 and big blower. Would be a fun dirt runner lol We’ve seen vik say the heads and cam is good. So just short block and maybe 10:1 or 9:1 compression and 18-20psi let it eat lol

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/pro...-1000-hp-daily-driven-awd-tundra-build.54634/

https://youtu.be/geqRu5gRGuY

 

Last dyno run he posted was just shy of ~750 HP.

 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/izcoe5crqsY

 

Fitting is in, it was interesting.

lol

 

Looks good

 

How are you getting the silicone coupler on?

 

I'm going to drill a hole in it, I ordered one that is longer so I can clamp it ahead of the fitting.

 

Minor update, I believe the RCF is 84mm (about to buy one haha), which is still a large volume change around 21.5%. Looks like the prospeed adapter plate is the way to go and the magnuson intake hose may actually fit the RCF Throttle Body if slightly modified, which saves alot of intake headaches if true.

 

Continuing to get dialed in via remote tune. Touching base on tuning out the extended crank.. I lied. It's intermittent now and Chris @ PS is playing around with attempting to "tune it out"

 

We’ll have to get together when it’s dialed

 

I'm contemplating taking it to Woodburn dragstrip this spring. Thoughts?

 

Shit yea, 4hi ftw

 

URD also makes a cheaper TB adapter

https://urdusa.com/urd-throttle-body-adapter-76-rcf-3ur-fe-5-7l-v8/

 

I used that one with mine.

 

As an aside, I've noticed that with the PS fuel rails, I've only been getting the extended crank after the line blows.

 

I confirmed there is a check valve built in to the fuel basket pressure barb, I have removed that as part of my modifications...so that's what caused the cranking issue for me. Not sure what would be the fix for anyone with a stock fuel pump basket, as they should still have fuel in the pressure line to the rails, not full pressure, but enough to start the truck until the fuel pump kicks on.

 

Has anyone with extended crank issues, added a relay to "bump" the fuel pump at key on? Someone posted a kit that one of the shops sells.

 

Yes, that's how I have mine wired now, I also added a check valve to my pressure side.

 

I got the O rings from FIVE O, there are different ones than what I have & an extra. I asked 5-O without response, which do I use to replace the orange one I have on the injectors & where does the other one go?

 

mine look the way you have them. I didn't swap out any o-rings

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-168#post-3050773

 

Except the big ones on the bottom, the way it is is as they came. Since I have new ones I'd like to replace the orange ones. Do I use green or black?