What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have not seen a one-stop shopping post with all interior LED light replacement bulbs identified for all years and cab types; they all seem to be in kind of random threads. What I wouldn't give to be able to just order a kit!

 

No night time shots 10ft from a wall?
I was interested in that - what extra wiring/install was required, other than just the bulbs?

Yup, I write "OLD" on the cap and the top 'hump' my Mobil1 bottles have.

Not a problem at all. In fact, some people will intentionally add 1-2QT or more of transmission fluid to their crankcase for cleaning purpose and run it for a while before next oil change. ATF (from what I recall) has more detergents than motor oil, and thus will clean passages etc. effectively. Or thus is the claim.

Look, I've said it before here, I'll say it again. My grandpa would run kerosene in his engines, idled high for 30-60 minutes, periodically before an oil change for the same reason. The internals of every engine I saw him ear apart were pristine. He swore by it. If he can run friggin kerosene in his engine, there's no reason you can't get away with a measly half quart of transmission fluid. Hell, I'm running half a quart of Seafoam in my crankcase right now.

 

So this is festive. And/or maybe it sucks, I'm not sure which. Still not awake enough to think clearly. Long night.

While doing brake fluid and rear diff (again) yesterday, I realized "I spent enough time under the rear of this truck, I could've easily had my 5100s installed already."

So I broke down and unboxed the @Toytec Lifts suspension stuff I got Black Friday only to realize ... Oh shit. They gave me 5100s for 1-2" lift, and I'm not lifting the rear.

They sent p/n F4-BE5-C478-T0 (Bils p/n: 24-186728) which I think is for 1-2" lift, Bilstein calls for

$110 24-100144 5100 Series Rear Shock fits 2000 2006 Tundra with 0-1" Lift - Monotube Design

24-100144 for 0"-1" lift which is actually what I'm running. Looks like the major difference is about 1/2" in travel, slight difference in collapsed/extended lengths. (Travel length difference is 8.56" vs. 8.92")

I don't intend to lift my rear any time in the next year or two. Should I bother getting them on the horn, assuming you even can on a Sunday?

SxS on the specs. Guess this is why you should unbox at delivery and not let life suck you into a vortex of turmoil eh?:

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The worst part of a backlog of mods. Unboxing and being screwed on return window.

 

My understanding is that just means it can accommodate up to 2" of lift. It doesn't mean the rear has to be lifted. I can't see how that will cause any issues for you other than possibly being a little harder to install since they are a tad longer. I bought ICON shocks that can handle up to 2" lift and they were a breeze to install. I'm not a suspension expert like some here but I think you'll be fine. Also, I installed my rear shocks before installing the add-a-leaf.

Friendly reminder that having a long flex head ratcheting wrench helps to reach the top nut.

 

I honestly can't see how this would impact much of anything, found it weird though. It looks like the ones they shipped are for the Taco (2005+), now I dug deeper. So it's possible they just sent the wrong thing? It appears these are something included with RCD kits per another. I'm just going to call and see what they say. The box feels fatter than what I got from BilsteinLifts.com last go-round.

Oh - and when I was back there yesterday it looks like one of my long-handle ratcheting wrenches will slip right through onto the nut between the bed and framerail, no problem.

 

It's only a 1/4" difference in collapsed length. Are you going to be riding the bump stops or jumping your truck with them?

If no, I wouldn't worry about it and install them.

 

This was my take also. I tried calling TT earlier just to confirm fitment for this Tacoma shock on a Tundra. I'm going to give a ring tomorrow. Just want to hear 'everything is otherwise the same' before cracking the boxes. I know all kinds of parts swap between models, but ... Nothing sucks worse than getting your old parts off, then going to put your new parts on only to find ... one end or the other don't fit.

 

Follow-up on this: 60 miles driven in multiple trips. Simply using OBDLink to clear the two 'failed to read' sensors error codes that were set has apparently gotten rid of my TPMS light. I know for certain I need all new sensors, these are likely facotry, I'll get replacements with new tires. But for anyone that's struggling with TPMS light flashing, still want TPMS to technically work, and don't want to hack your shit to disable TPMS ... Free OBDLink smartphone app with OBDLink MX+ dongle allowed me to connect directly to the TPMS network and clear the DTCs.

@SoCalPaul you were the first person I thought of when I did this. I was looking at one of those gadgets you bought to work through this. I've been buying and playing with digital tools since this happened, and yours was in the "could buy next" list.

 

Did some wiring for the winch. Time for a beer break…….
1g ain’t no joke!

 

Looks sharp!

 

Thanks! I was waiting for your critique!
The solenoid box isn’t as pretty, but I had/have limited space.

 

@shifty` , I have the exact same Fox rear shock on both Tacomas as I originally purchased the second pair for my Tundra before I got the ‘05. Colton called fox to confirm the compatibility. Of course I never installed them on the Tundra since I did the shock relocate. But the rear shocks should be fully compatible based on what I know.

 

I have a slight leak from my Power Steering pump banjo bolt. The bolt is plenty tight. Are there any suggestions on how to best seal this? can I use some type of sealant, if so which kind???

 

Get new aluminum or copper crush washers. Needs 2.

 

Reinstalled my rear view mirror today.
For the longest I couldn’t switch my AC vent selector knob to defrost, opened up the console and realized I had incorrectly routed my CarPlay iPhone cable and it was preventing the knob from selecting those last 2 settings.
Since I’ve owned the truck when shifting from Park to Drive, or reverse to drive it would throw on the O/D Off light on the dash and simply pushing the button on the end of the gear selector would disengage OD Off…then I remembered I saw here a while back there’s a cable that runs just over the steering column that’s prone to chafing, causing this issue, opened it up and wrapped it in electrical tape and no more problem….I also put an anti glare “screen protector” on my double din and now I don’t have to look at the reflection of my back window glass’ reflection anymore! A day of small victories to be sure.

 

Today I learned how to change a battery and the oil. I hope to keep learning stuff on this old shit box

 

Everyone's gotta start somewhere. I wish my original owner would've learned how to change his oil

 

My dad said if I can prove that i can maintain a 20 year old truck with high mileage for the next 5 years, then he'll buy me a brand new truck for graduation. Go Bearkats!

 

Well, it just so happens you now own a truck that can easily survive 500k+ miles with basic maintenance, so ... looks like you'll get a new truck before you know it.

Don't forget to drop pics of yours over in the photo thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/

And if you're new to the 1st Gen Tundra, pore over this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

(2006 DC SR5 2WD)
So I replaced the 2 license plate bulbs, the 4 lower doors, the 2 map bulbs, the 2 on the side of the dome, and they were all the same . . . Size T10 wedge, or 194 (same). The dome was a 'festoon' and took size 578 in 42mm (despite 'the zon' trying to tell me it's the wrong size. 10 in total.
I'm not gonna mess with any of the dash or footwell bulbs, I'm happy where it's at 4 now.
Huge upgrade . . . really diggin the door lights now, it really lights up the ground if I drop something.
The cab lights are at least 3-4 times brighter . . . will make finding things much easier.

 

Had to get gone fast. Hit crackies speed limiter today. I about shit myself.

 

What’s a Bearkat?

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sammy_Bearkat

 

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2016-2022-Toyota-Tacoma-Uniball-Removal-Tool-96006

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2016-2022-Toyota-Tacoma-Aluminum-Uniball-Press-Tool

 

Long strokin' this lil V6 on new pops bought tarrrs. Ling long mf

https://youtu.be/F_HoMkkRHv8

I ain't got time to sleep, but I make time to speed, fuck, and smoke. Living my mf best life.

Going for the quartet today before work. It-a-lion tune up sumbitches!!!

 

Nailed it

 

Oh Sammy!

 

Ling long all day. Guinea horns!

 

V6 did great. Ran er hard. Lil bit of deposits burned off. Real nice. Back in crackie! WOZERS! What a damn difference!