Instructions for custom tuning the truck with HPTuners.

No problem and good luck! The AM2 fuse is a good one to check as well while you are in there. I used to do a lot of remote start installs and if you grabbed power from a circuit that used that fuse it would pop and cause pretty much every system to not work as it kills power to the main body ECU. That fuse is in that same junction box.

 

all fuses intact.

from what I can see...everything is plugged in.

so, I'm off to Toyota for a diagnostic scan.

 

all is well.

ecu-b fuse was blown...just like @ssmokedz predicted.

it's back

life is good.

Whatever he did to the transmission, it sure feels better.

big fan of HPTuners now.

 

Whew, that's good to hear!

 

Has anyone seen an IAT vs timing retard table? I was trying to see if the ECU pulled timing based on IAT. I do think I saw one based on coolant temp. Does it just make changes to timing if there is knock and not reference the IAT?

 

Nice! glad that its all back to normal and that it was a quick fix.

 

My values have been set at 1500/1000 apply/release by Viktor. Did you change these afterward to fine tune for your preference, or may have there been a reason they were set differently due to your non-stock tire size and regear (speculating)? My tires/ratio are/is factory. I was considering tinkering with mine as in particular locations, mine feels like it's lugging and I'm inclined to want to manually downshift. It's either that or romp on it to prompt a downshift, and with all the off-camber round-a-bouts here, that could profoundly alter my trajectory in a very negative fashion.

 

I run 4th gear lock up at like 1650-1700 (not looking at it at the moment) because 1500 was too sluggish. Maybe once I gear to 5.29 it won’t be so bad but with 4.30’s and 34’s it’s too low.

 

I understand that torque converter lockup couples the engine and transmission more directly and doesn't allow the torque converter to spin and generate heat. I guess I would like a better explanation if anyone has one, as to why Toyota tuned the lockup in such a way that its almost never locked under "Normal" and "tow/haul". I see it locks up more aggressively under the "hot" parameters which I assume is to help lower temperatures. If lockup is generally better, why is it tuned to barely ever lockup in the stock tune? Is it to prevent lugging the engine mostly? Id like to make mine more aggressive but I don't want to go too far. I'm also wondering how making these changes may effect downshifting. If I'm cruising on the highway in 6th and floor it, will it still downshift to 3rd immediately when it realizes I want more power, or will it be more reluctant due to the TC lockup?

 

Locking the converter at to low of an rpm can cause lugging and potentially damage the lock up clutch as the pump doesn’t have enough pressure built up to keep it from slipping. A lot of folks also don’t like the feeling of a lugging engine and these trucks have to be tuned for the 99% of people that buy them, not the 1% like us.

Mine has no problem dropping to 3rd when I go full throttle on the highway as the downshift and lock up parameters aren’t affected by engaging the lock up clutch in different gears. You can make it change that if you want to though.

 

I meant to @snivilous but it appears that I forgot! After posting I figured that I'd just make the changes as I was going out for some logging anyway.

I agree. 1800 is nice so far, specifically at that funny spot that I frequent by the local post office. Other terrain doesn't seem to be negatively affected. It's just this funny compression section where on the downhill, it was shifting into 5th at 35mph and locking up. After hitting the point of lowest elevation, you'd need to climb a decent grade that was just long enough that it lugs and drops speed. In order to prevent that before, you'd need to get into it quite a bit to prompt a downshift, then you'd have to stand on the brakes for the intersection. Set to 1800, it doesn't lock and allows just enough additional revs to keep it from feeling like it's struggling and maintains speed with less throttle input.

Have you changed yours at all? Try 1800/1500 (lock/release), and if it's too slippery, split the difference from what it was before.

After eons of driving manuals, I seem to be pretty sensitive to lugging. Downshifting while in Drive was unchanged for me as well.

 

I may just have to! Have you also changed your line pressures and torque management at all? I was surprised to see my SC tune had basically no changes to the transmission tuning whatsoever. I’m contemplating what changes should even be made.

 

I didn't touch them, I'm not confident enough for that stuff yet.

 

Sooo, I’ve got questions. What’s the proper way to read these tables? My 4th gear looks like it will basically never lock up since the RPM is above redline all the way through. I thought 4th gear was 1:1 anyway, is TC lockup really a thing in 4th gear?

Also, how do I read my 5th gear tables for example? At 200% pedal position for example, is it saying it will lock up if RPM is above 3734, and will unlock if RPM is below 3434 at 200% pedal position? I also don’t understand what 200% pedal position even means. Why doesn’t it stop at 100%? Lol I’m clueless with this trans stuff…

 

Those numbers are transmission output shaft speed and not engine rpm. If you want it to engage converter lock up then drop it down to 1700 or so. Ignore the throttle percentage part. Just make it the same all the way through.

 

Ooook, that makes sense. I may change them and see what happens. I may start with a less aggressive numbers, maybe set every number that is above 2300 lockup to 2300 and leave the lower ones alone and observe the differences. Sorry for the questions, I just hate changing things without understanding the concepts of how they work!

 

Small changes at a time. I usually adjust things by 5% or so unless I know what I’m doing.

 

Please share your experiences and results of tinkering with the TC tuning. I understand that being unlocked generates more heat but I don’t know what it means to have a locked vs unlocked converter.

 

I started to look into this this morning and my software looks different from what you're showing. Mine doesn't indicate "Injector Duty Cycle" when I search for it.





My VCM Scanner is version 5.0.4. Maybe you downloaded the Beta?

 

Will do, whenever I get around to it. Did you fix your starting issue?

 

It looks like you're searching for a channel. This only applies to the line graphs and the cell layout area. You don't monitor injector duty cycle with the different channels (sensors) since its a calculation, not a sensor.

 

Okay, I think. lol
I'll poke around some more then.

 

Think of a clutch in a standard. Same function.

 

Fuck yeah!

 

Negative. Haven’t change anything there. However after sitting overnight and starting in 30 degrees, it started absolutely perfectly. So I think this means the fuel system is not losing pressure but might be subject to air temp, coolant temp or both.

 

So when TC unlocked, the drivetrain is essentially disconnected from the engine like clutch out scenario?

 

Lock up tc is suited if you have gear lock and direct shift feature and using these features with S mode. And of course along with that, your ecu is tuned for 91 octane. If not driveability suffers a lot. Not much power or torque on 6th gear in a locked tc. I don't even recommend locking 6th gear at all.

I do have a manual tc lock up electronic device on my 2010 Crewmax 4x4.With a switch I can lock up tc from 2nd gear to 6th, upshift/downshift, but best to use with S mode because you want the rpm a bit higher so the engine will produce more torque when it upshifts to the next gear. Otherwise, kinda like a manual transmission, you can lug the engine. With the addition of Direct Shift and Gear Lock and 91 octane tune, it's a great package to have. Not all the time tc lock up is desired or recommended. With tc locked up, there's not much cushioning and can be hard on the transmission and driveline components.

I installed the device for offroad use such as deccelerating on a steep hill. Can also be used on low speed hill climb. But the orig plan to make my Crewmax off road or overlanding vehicle got derailed with all these stuff going on which started on 2020. But once in a while I would use the feature on the street.

 

The output shaft speed are in the colored boxes, it looks like your app % has been changed from stock.

 

Pretty much. It’s in fluid coupling mode at that point.

 

I compared it to my stock file and everything is the same. I can make it highlight the changes between the files and literally nothing was done in the trans tuning.