Instructions for custom tuning the truck with HPTuners.

The MPVI3 is the most recent device.

 

You only need credits to read and write to the ECU in the editor.. VCM scanner is universal.. no credits needed... you can log any vehicle they support with a single dongle..

 

@Wynnded I thought this would be a better place to answer your questions:

Injector Duty Cycle and Tables/Graphs:

Injector Duty Cycle is an internal calculation to HPT and can be found by searching "Injector Duty Cycle" and under the "Maths" section it will be shown.



Injector duty cycle tells you how much of your injector capability you are using. The injector maxes out at 100%, so if you are seeing 100% injector duty cycle then the engine physically cannot inject more fuel and is most likely starting to lean out. This is good to know when sizing injectors and for tuning on beyond-stock applications.

To display this, or any item in the graphs, right click on the graph and go to "Charts Layout" and you'll see this appear:



At the top where it shows the plus sign, click that and then click the parameter you want and other variables and it will be displayed like the following:



Another useful way to display data is with the "Graphs":



On the left side (below the different graph names) right click and select "Graphs Layout":



Again, the green + at the top adds graphs and the red - removes them.

Select the parameter you want to view, in this case Injector Duty Cycle. With that alone it will show the value at that instant in the log (same as the line graphs above). To view multiple cells, you need to add values to the "Column Axis" and "Row Axis". The most common usage is Engine Speed (ie rpm) for the column axis, and Absolute Load for the row axis. The individual cell column/row values then need to be set, and are denoted by a space----ie for rpm it's 400 600 800 1000, etc. which is the cell values for the columns, and same thing for Absolute Load.

If you want to color the cells, the "Shading" zone comes into play, where you pick a high and low color and values, and then the "mid value" will be white. If the mid value is in the middle of high and low then it's a linear color change between the two, where as if you select a higher mid value then the greens would be more spread out in this case and the reds would happen over a shorter span.

There are ways to filter the data that is shown, which I haven't looked into, but for instance the "Knock Retard" graph I have here only shows cells where the cell value is less than -3.0.



If that filtering function is deleted, then all Knock Retard values are shown. Below shows how that can be useful. The first table only shows knock feedback of <-3.0, meaning it's only displaying cells where Knock Feedback is detected. The second table shows all Knock Feedback, and shows the same cells as the first table as well as all the other cells that are -3.0 (which represents no knock feedback detected). So the first table represents where knock is detected, and the second table shows that also but also shows all the other cells where data was logged.





Again, not sure on the specifics of the filtering function, since this was my first time messing with the tables. But just configuring the tables and colors can be very helpful. Here is the MAF voltage for example:

 

Thakns, copied & pasted into a word doc to print & see what's what in the Tree!

 

I've got bad news.

so I got the truck re-tuned. it runs great.

he used HPT.

but - the truck operating system is wonky.
The remotes don't work - you have to touch the remote to the starter button
the tire monitor system is not working
it does not remember anything when you restart it.
the airbag system is giving a warning.
bluetooth won't connect

he said he loaded the base tune from HPT and built it from there.

all this stuff worked fine before.

Any ideas?


I am pissed.

 

Who tuned it? Are the battery terminals tight? Just thinking of ideas as this shouldn’t be tune related. Weird

 

Is he saying he pulled the file from your truck, and built it from there? Or pulled a base file for the Tundra from HPT repository? If the latter, it could be he pulled the wrong file, like for a 2018- Tundra instead of 2019+. Just a thought of something to rule out

 

just got off the phone with him...it was wonky before he started the tune.

he said he pulled a file from HPT....whatever that is.

 

I'll ask about this one...I would think HPT would kick out that error?

 

Peitz Performance - he's done a bunch.

I'm going to have Toyota scan it tomorrow. see if they can tell me something.

 

Ya i would think there would be other immediate errors if that were the case. But never know. Hopefully it's something easier!

 

so it must have happened when they added the gauges.

 

Check the grounds!

 

Doesn't sound like a tune issue to me, and obviously isn't if it was doing that shit before dude got it. Sounds like something got unplugged.

 

That sucks, they shouldn't release it back to you running like that. I would start by checking the gauge wiring and whatever they tapped into for gauge power/lights/relay input/whatever...as far as the tune with HPT, that's how it works unless you have another tune file to work from, can't pull from the Truck. If you aren't opening an existing file, it downloads a tune that works for your stock VIN and you go from there.

 

If you dropped it off and those features worked at the time, it would appear to me that they should make it right.

 

This

I think his shop guys glitched something when they put in the gauges

gonna have Toyota run a full diagnostic

 

We talked and he’s a good guy

willing to do whatever.

but needs a Toyota diagnostic first

 

This is awesome! Thanks! I'll have time to play with it next week (I hope).

 

After contemplating...and looking at the errors on dash:

When Alex said it was wonky when he took it to the dyno, then I knew it was the tech's that bumped something loose....they did the gauges and catch can before Alex took it to the dyno*.

they must have knocked a module loose - because they were in proximity to the steering wheel, and under dash, when mounting the gauges.

don't work:
key remotes
door locks
compass
navigation
SRS airbag system
tire monitoring system.
bluetooth


works:
everything else...even carplay
radar cruise control...if something was wrong, cruise control gets shut down first in Toyotas.
engine runs awesome.
Trans is now shifting 1-2 better.

I'll crawl under the dash this afternoon and see what I see.

gonna get Toyota to run a full diagnostic today or tomorrow.

life is still good.


*the dyno is still at his old shop about 5 miles away.

 

Relieved to hear it is psuedo sorted

 

agreed.

but, I would further the mess.

i guarantee it.

 

the awful part is trying to start the truck by pressing the fob onto the start button....it takes about 5 times.

 

I'm sorry but I kinda find that hilarious. Just imagining a clown trying to insert a fob into a key hole that isn't there.

 

I'll make it even funnier...

I just left the bank with a wad of petty cash

got in the truck and was soft talking the truck to please start...having a wad of cash in east houston is a recipe for disaster.

 

Out of curiosity, try these two fuses which are in the main fuse box under the hood on the drivers side. They both power the door lock and tpms receivers. The ECU-B no 2 fuse also powers the occupant detection ecu which would also cause an srs light to come on too. They could have possibly popped these fuses. If not i suspect they might have left one of the main body ecu connectors unplugged on the left side of the steering wheel.

 

I apologize those fuses are in the junction block under the drivers side dash not under the hood

 

Thank you.

I am sending waves of comfort and joy in your general direction.

I would not be surprised if that's where the gauges are pulling power or at least close to it.

We'll see.

again. 'preciate ya.

I'll be under dash later today.