General Supercharger Thread

Can you link me that vid? I must've missed it. Looks like that pump is upgraded over the TRD one, but want to see if it's the same as the ZZP

https://zzperformance.com/products/zzp-high-output-intercooler-pump-stage-1

also

https://shopfigs.com/v5/L1030

 

Also I'm just noticing this, since I haven't gotten to the part of installing the Figs res tank, but it looks like I may be missing an Intercooler Resevoir Bracket that connects the res tank to the supercharger. I'll have to go back through my parts list to confirm

 

https://youtu.be/t-31NprcBQE

 

He doesn't mention what the lpm is, but i did notice he had to solder the new wires into that connector. The ZZP you can direct connect, even is it is a little loose. I think @reywcms pop is running it? I'll be running it soon, but can confirm the loose connection. Fixed with a little bit of electrical tape

 

He scientifically showed it was x% (don't remember) better via the speed it emptied the bucket.

lol

I don't mind soldering & need a relay & to make my own harness as that is missing.

 

10%...

 

Need a smarter brain than mine to figure out how to convert and compare bucket numbers to what it says on the zzp site lol but i'm guessing they're the same, just one is red!

 

I looked again at the Bosch & it did not come with the connector, Amazon's vendor wanted 9.99 + 27 (no Prime) shipping so I canceled the order & got both for a bit less with shipping from ZZP.

 

I’d wager 10% increased flow won’t make a lick of difference in sensible heat removal. BTUs= 500xGPMxDelta T. More GPM just means less time the fluid is in the coil rejecting heat which means a lower delta T. You can have a higher GPM and a lower delta, or a lower GPM and a higher delta but either way the heat exchanger will remove X amount of heat at a given airflow across it. Too large of a pump just adds kinetic energy to the water and makes it warmer, as well as a higher amp draw. Nothing wrong with the ZZP pump, just geeking.

Unrelated, I replaced my K&N with an AFE filter and the pesky whistle is at least half as quiet. The K&N is very thin and like a wet noodle compared to the much thicker and more rigid AFE.

 

This is pretty much my setup too. I installed the bypass and block off plates shortly after I purchased the truck used in 2014 as a preventative measure. Paul (Hewitt) did upgrade me a couple of times as he made a couple revisions.

Buut, when I installed the S/C in October of 2019, I couldn't seem to get at good tune. I first used VFT and had Mat remote it. It just never ran right. I eventually slid over to HPT and had Viktor remote it. It was much, much better, but over a few hundred miles, the fuel trims got all wonky and it would run poorly again setting rich and/or lean codes and sending fuel trims all over the place. Viktor had a go at adjusting it a few more times, and he had me check for vacuum leaks as well a replacing the MAF sensor. It continued and I just decided to drive it to see how crazy it would get.

After a while of "driving it till it breaks", I'd noticed that the temperature gauge would drop briefly and then return to normal when the vehicle was at full operating temp. I got under the hood gingerly wiggling wires and such, focusing mostly on the wiring for the bypass. I wasn't able to "make" the gauge respond, so I replaced the coolant temp sensor in the water bypass pipe (cheap and quick). Almost immediately after firing up the truck, the gauge dropped and came back up again.

Next I removed the wiring harness of the bypass. Truck ran perfect for a few days before setting a SAIS P2445 (I think, I deleted the screenshot from my code reader). I went into HPT and unchecked the boxes for that code and have been running it without a single hiccup since. That doesn't mean a lot of miles, as I haven't been driving it much, I walk to work. I've run continuity checks on the harness a hundred ways to Sunday and don't find an intermittent wire, but there's that proprietary little black box... I intend to reach out to Paul to see if I can send the harness back to him to see if he is able to test it, as I think that something in it may have failed or gone out of spec and is sending skewed readings from the MAF to the ECU causing it to adjust fuel trims based on faulty readings giving Viktor and myself endless headaches.

When I have had the chance to drive, I try to log as well and have my LTFTs down to a pretty steady -2% so far.

 

Wonder how you order a matched set here?

 

What crank/whp would a 2.3” pulley plus injector/pump/rcf throttle body do roughly? Guessing 9psi vs 6ish would be in the 650-700 crank range, just not sure. Then likely are in forged internals territory anyways?

 

Yes he was and can confirm the connector is slightly loose but nothing to make it come out. Zip tie or tape is sufficient back up. It’s coming out so I’ll probably throw it in mine until the blower upgrade.

 

That’s a hard question to answer since there is so many variables. I can say I have the Harrop and was told by DAP that a custom tune adds 40-50hp and the Harrop equivalent pulley to the 2.30 (80mm) adds another 20-30. So basically a tune and pulley should give another 60-80hp. RCF TB might add 10-20 more if your intake is set up right? Add in some longtubes and you’ll get even more out of it. Id guess you would be in the neighborhood of 500whp and maybe 620ish crank which is still supposedly safe. The consensus seems to be 600whp is where it starts getting iffy.

 

Stock supercharger claims 550hp @ 21.7psia, at 9psi that's 23.7psia which would be ~600hp at the crank, which matches up with @Silver17 post

 

I just placed an order and looks like they came matched. The Flow sheet had them all at 750, one was at 749.

 

So what’s the go to Spark Plugs? IKH24?

 

MRP custom length 8" intake vs ProSpeed. There is a very slight difference in ID as the PS is not perfectly circular on the TB end; on average it is less than 1/32 difference. Reused the Vibrant no weld vacuum fitting.

Pricing for the tube w/o screen was $173 and w/screen $207 at the time. Does not include S&H.

The Vibrant part is the 16mm $10.99 SKU#2896. I used a step drill bit to make a 5/8" hole.

 

Ikh22's unless you're above 8 psi imo

 

I'd have had these on since putting the Harrop on. 80mm pulley

 

Thanks ! Stage 2 Harrop.

 

Thank you! Are these pre-gapped for our rig/set up?

 

I think so.

 

Denso IKH24 #5346. I’m sure you can find them cheaper if you look, but be weary of counterfeits. I bought mine from DAP, but I’d trust RockAuto to have the real deal as well.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/denso,5346,spark+plug,7212

 

Are you on the .031 gap they come with or tighter?

 

I left mine alone as they came.

 

Viktor is retired I asked Magnuson for the base tune & told them that I'm a flex Sequoia, they sent a canned we don't have an application for that vehicle, I screen shot the Tundra version from their site & said they are the same, I'd appreciate the file & crickets.

Anyone have a flex base file I can "borrow"?

 

I’d just take it for a custom tune at Xact dyno in Tempe, AZ since you’re not far. I hear a lot that the tuner there named Tim does great work tuning these engines.

 

I worked with Tim in the mid 2k's on my stroked high compression Z, he was great to work with. The machine shop did a shitty job on the build and the motor blew a custom JE piston. I know it was not Tim's fault (the shop blamed the tune) I did not know he worked on these, I'll give him a call.

 

...and done. Test drive tomorrow.

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