Dash cam tap

I don't want constant power for exactly those reasons. So I hope mine is the switched version.

 

Well then you have nothing to worry about friend. As long as you're connecting it to the pre-ran adapter on top of your liner then you're only drawing accessories power. If I'm wrong, please someone correct me.

 

three wires are in that plug in the overhead console, 12v constant, 12v acc, ground

 

What spdfreak91 said is true.
If you review the multiple other threads on dash cams in this forum from April 2022, you could learn a lot more on how to DIY. I have made the connector with a usb buck convertor for dash cams, but then my truck sat for a week at a time and having constant power draw wasn't good. Switch out the buck convertor for the hardware kit for my Vantru cam and now things are good.

 

I can easily DIY this stuff. Last cam I just used the optional hardwire kit and that is what I probably should have done here. That is easy peasy with a fuse tap. Just have to run the cable from the fuse box, under the A pillar and under the edge of the headliner. But I didn't get the kit because I wanted to try the Dongar... and the only issue I have is not knowing which version of the Dongar I have and their website is absolutely useless in that regard. I may try calling them. Otherwise, I'll have to wait and connect it up and see what I have when I get my usb a-c cable, which B&H apparently has on the slow track taking a week to be delivered. :-( I couldn't find anything shorter than 3' on Amazon since there is no set of filters that could refine it to what I was looking for without a ton of extraneous "hits".

Though I just took a look on the Dongar box for a model or version number... didn't find that, but it says powers when vehicle turned on. But also says it is a mirror tap. Which it is not. Or at least not only. LOL.

 

Got it done today after all. My Viofo came with that USB A-C cable buried in the box. But I ended up not using it because it also came with a cigarette lighter power adapter with another long (like 3 or 4 feet) USB A-C cable with a nice 90 degree USB C male plug end. So, I simply cut that and solder spliced it to be about 12" long. This cable drops straight out of the headliner and the 90 degree keeps excess exposed cable to a minimum. I mounted the cam like my last Viofo in the Tacoma, on the driver's side adhered to the tint dot area with the cam as high up as it can go with the lens looking out just under the dot field. I mount these just far enough to the left of the mirror so I can still slip the cam off its mount to the right when I want to pull out the SD card.

The Dongar I have does indeed supply ACC switched 12V and the cam comes on and shuts off with the ignition. Connected wifi, went into the app and set the time zone, resolution, etc. I haven't messed with the rear cam yet. Running that cable is going to be a bit of a PITA, at least around the B pillar, I am afraid. Otherwise, I believe it will mostly just tuck into the headliner edge. Another day...

 

Awesome! was it hard pulling the dome light and sunroof assembly down?

 

Yes, it was, until it wasn't. But nothing broke. I did not use tools. It was also a little tough getting the Dongar plugged into the ceiling socket. Tough angle, big hands. I suppose that thing comes off its mount somehow if you can figure out how it works.

 

Wait till you need to pull that connector back off with your big hands, it's trick. I pulled mine out of the 22 Tundra dc no moon roof, and put in 23 tundra plat with pano. I haven't done the rear cam yet either. Had the truck 2 weeks as of tomorrow and still not sure how I'll do it.

 

LOL... it's there for life! If I get another Tundra or other Toyota, I'll spring for another Dongar. But that female socket has to pop off from the truck, too. That might be easier than trying to release the plug. IDK.

 

Good point, parts are cheap, but I didn't want to wait a week. The female socket does come off, but big hands and pliers don't seem to fit well up there.

 

You weren’t joking, it wasn’t an easy angle nor a whole lot of room!

It’s in though. So much better without a dangling cord!

 

I got around to installing the rear Viofo cam today and it was easy once my Tacoma memories came back. And the Tundra trim is assembled just like the Tacoma so that helped. First and foremost DO NOT try to run the cable across and through the headliner. Not necessary.

1. Mount the cam and run the cable into the channel above. Tuck it into the edge of the headliner.



2. Tuck the cable under the panels. The top of the black rear panel pops open easily to get you started. Run the cable down towards the floor. I didn't tuck it in all the way down because the seat is in the way. Not really necessary here anyway.


3. Run the cable forward under the floor sill plates. They pop off easily but really not necessary.



4. Front sill plate removed for illustration and to remove the kick panel.


5. I removed the kick panel to get better access to the edge of the panels. Probably not necessary. To remove it pull the plastic knob in the footwell off, then pull the panel to the rear. Run the cable up under the edge of the weather seal.



6. Pop the little caps off the grab handle to access the two 10mm bolts. Remove those and remove the handle. Mine had a lot of blue LocTite.



7. Pop off the pillar trim by pulling it to right and rear. Run the cable along the other wire bundles. Zip tie them on.


8. Run the cable under the edge of the headliner over to your cam, then make some loops of the excess and tuck them under the headliner by the pillar.


9. Reinstall the pillar trim, grab handle and other pieces you removed. Done.

 

Thanks for the pics @raylo !! This is exactly what I pictured doing in my tundra. I've done it the exact same way in my other cars, but I was hesitant to start on the tundra because I've yet to see someone post about the process to remove trim panels in the rear cab area.

The rear window in mine rolls down, so I'm gonna have to get the little trim piece you stick under the headliner to get a surface to attach the rear camera.

Did you also go with the Viofo HK3 hardwire kit? I want to be able to retain the parking mode like in my other cars.

 

You are going to need something like this Ricky: https://www.thedashcamstore.com/custom-folded-bracket-for-secondary-dashcam-lenses/

 

Yeah that is exactly what I was referring to! Clearly I'm bad with descriptions haha..

@Maharisc I've been meaning to ask you since you were the first person here who shared the DIY wiring with the 5-pin connector - since there are the ground, accessory, and constant power wires in the dome light cavity, could we tap directly into those for hardwire kits that normally require taps into fuse boxes? I'm going with the 3-wire hardwire kits in order to utilize the parking mode function as well as set voltage limits to minimize battery drain. If there is enough space within the cavity, that might be more convenient than running wires to the fuse box and using clunky add-a-circuit taps like I did with my other cars.


Viofo hardwire kit with three wires (ground, accessory, constant power):

 

@RickyPNW if you refer to post #34 above, that is exactly what I did. cut the end of and soldered on the leads/pins, poked them into the connector and done.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dash-cam-tap.116974/page-2#post-3078048

 

Thanks for confirming again!

Might be another stupid question - do you know if the dome light cavity wiring is protected by a fuse? One concern I had was, if we wired the dash cam directly like you did in post #34 rather than using an add-a-circuit tap to the fuse box, then we might lose out on the surge protection. My guess is that the 5-pin has its own fuse somewhere.

 

I assume it is fused somewhere as all wires should be, but not sure where. My guess is in the cab either by Glove Box of driver foot well. It is normally used for the OEM DashCam so that should narrow it down. One thing I haven't investigated but it's worth knowing.

 

I agree - it has to be somewhere. I'll investigate as well once I tackle this in a couple weeks.. Last question, was there adequate room in the dome light cavity to fit all the extra wiring and box from the hardwire kit?

 

I don't know about you, but I have the Pano and yes it fit just fine up there. You may want a couple zip ties handy so the wad of wire you stuff up there doesn't bounce when you hit a bump.

 

Yeah I have the pano as well, so that's very reassuring to hear. I was worried that reel of wire would be too big considering we'd only use like 2% of it. Definitely good advice on the zip ties.

Thanks again for your help and patience with my questions!

 

No I didn't use the hardwire kit this time. I just used the Dongar adapter in the overhead. I used the hardwire kit last time for the Viofo in my Tacoma that I sold. But I never used parking mode then and don't intend to now. But you seem to be on the right track.

 

I just ordered a front/rear dashcam. I will be definitely be refering to this thread!!

 

I made this that plugs into the factory dash cam harness. It has the USB-C for my dash cam and the other one is for my radar detector.

 

Nicely done!! Looks very clean too! Looks like the Viofo hardwire kit? Do you plan on documenting the install with pics?

 

It is the Viofo hardwire kit. I installed it weeks ago and didn't take pics unfortunately. I just followed the instructions for the factory webcam for dropping the front part of the headliner.

 

Nice, did you also run a rear camera?

 

Anyone have any pro tips on how to remove the sunglass holder? Going to try and install mine tomorrow night.

 

Just pull down from the front edge with your fingers. The entire frame, not just the sunglass compartment. Clips are in the front and then it just comes out.