Transmission drain and full amount

Read the procedure I posted in Post#12. There is a section in green font that tells how to put the vehicle into a diagnostic mode to alert you when the fluid is at the correct temperature. What will happen is the “D” (for Drive) will be off when the fluid is too cold, it will turn on solid when the temperature is within range, and it will start flashing when it gets too hot for checking.

 

However, don’t confuse this for meaning the vehicle needs to be in Drive, you don’t want to run yourself over! Although you will need to move the shifter around a bunch to get it into the diagnostic mode, it should remain in park once you are in the diagnostic mode. I’d recommend doing a dry run the next time you drive your truck for practice. You’ll see what I’m talking about with the drive light being off-then on-then flashing, and it will make more sense.

 

As a point of data. I pinned the transmission thermostat then ran the engine for a minute and parked at a incline on ramps. Drained pan, Then I dropped the transmission pan and removed “strainer” aka filter let all that drain. Cleaned the magnets etcc.

I got exactly what looks to be 5 quarts out.

Now When I only drained and filled a few days ago, I only got 3 quarts out. But I was leveled and didn’t pin the thermostat. Just data.

looks like this fluid is original with 155k miles based on it being blacker then my soul. Although The Transmission runs very very strong and feels like new IMO. Even with this really dirty ATF. Must be a testament to the tundras over built durability.

I Will be running the truck with the thermostat pinned moving forward for Lower trans temps. So the fluid can circulate at all times.
I deleted my Silverados trans thermostat because across the board the torque converters we’re grenading by 150k miles or less, due to over heating to achieve the 0.2 MPG CAFE requirements. By running trannys hotter at 200F regularly. The heat wears out the fluid much faster and if you don’t change it regularly Silverados don’t last like that. transmissions don’t like heat 150F is ideal IMO. Although Maybe the tundra can handle the heat better

 

Just imagine how awesome it would be if Toyota and every manufacturer would just PUT THE FREAKIN DIP STICK back in the trans . Ill gladly pay the 5 dollars more on the window sticker if its really going to break the bank.

 

They won’t. This industry among many others has shifted to pure unfiltered greed. They want them to fail at some point. Or force the basic DIY selfer out of the picture. And pay up big dollar signs for the dealer to do it.

 

What are you talking about? Volvo has had undrainable transfer case and differential 20+ years ago, you can't even drain them properly w/o splitting in halves. So no one did any fluid replacement. Opposite to that, Tundra is a beautiful old school piece of machinery that lets you access pretty much everything for routine maintenance with ease.

Seriously, people overthink ATF. I can understand you may need to set the level once, after you've got the truck second hand, but following ATF replacements are a mere drain&fill the same quantity.

 

You can also find the procedure from this thread. And use the phone app ODB Fusion w/Toyota PID package to get the Trans Temp

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7l-transmission-cooler-kits.60550/

 

I highly doubt this is true.
if you drain whats in the pan by just removing the drain bolt , you'll get the 3+ qts , but letting it sit overnight with the oil pans drain open isnt going to get you any more, maybe just a few drops but not 2-3 more qts

 

Last time I drained ~4 quarts as usual before realizing my stocked ATF is T-IV, not WS. I drove to the nearest dealer and bought a six-pack of WS. When I came back home in about an hour-hour and a half, I notice a puddle under the transmission. Removed the hand tightened drain plug and it drained 2 more quarts.

 

Im hoping the vehicle you drove to get the correct fluid was not the vehicle you just drained 4qts out of ??

 

After owning Volvo exclusively for more than a decade, I'm following "N + 1" formula: N drivers in the family, N + 1 vehicles in the family

 

is that greek , I read it 5 times and still cant figure it out?

 

I assume he means number of drivers + 1.
Ex. 2 drivers is 2 cars + 1 for a spare = 3 cars total.

 

Yep.

 

you guys must be in some sort of secret club with this code talk

 

Some people aren’t big on the algebra.

Ready for another drain and fill on my rig - I always get 4 qts.

 

This is the funny part of the entire process.

1. Have truck no more than 1 degree off of level (precision)
2. Ensure fluid temp at the pan is in an exact range (precision)
3. Wait until fluid comes out at a “trickle” (WTF???)

 

How often have you been replacing your fluid?

 

Ive done 4 qts about every 15k miles (1x/year) since 45k.

 

I’m doing a drain and fill this weekend

I’ll wager I get 4qts

using the scangauge3 for temp

doing differentials as well

having the tune checked / dyno on Tuesday

changing oil as well

 

Oh damn, quite a bit. I just went over 18k miles, so starting to ponder the idea.

 

LOL. I know. I was there like, where's the trickle?

 

yessssss

well said.

all this high level precision comes down to a trickle.

as I said earlier....don't over think this.

and I'll call an audible here.....if you don't have a pan temp measurement...just make sure the pan is warm, & you are good to go on the trickle. the thermodynamic expansion difference is negligible.

"negligible" accuratizes the lack of temp. the trickle seals the deal. I guaran-damn-tee you will have the right amount of fluid.


I use the SG3 to get my temp only if I desire to get up off the damn garage floor.

 

Holy shit, why are we making such a project out of this? And stop will all the bad advice from the backyard mechanics. If you want to check your fluid incorrectly, that’s your prerogative, I could care less what you do with your own vehicle, but stop regurgitating bad advice.

EVERY SINGLE TRUCK HAS A BUILT IN TEMPERATURE SENSOR!
- You don’t need a code scanner
- You don’t need and don’t want to use an IR temp gun
- You definitely don’t want to go by how it “feels”

I posted a fool proof procedure on how to do this, it’s not rocket science and the process leaves nothing to chance. Just follow that process and the truck will literally tell you exactly when the fluid is in the correct temperature range by illuminating the D light. It also tells you exactly when the fluid is too hot by flashing the D light.

 

Seriously, it's funny reading the ways people will go around doing it the correct way when it's not even difficult. These are the people that tell you they have a shortcut and then turn 14 times and get there at the same time as you who drove in a straight line but hit a couple lights. The comments about what a trickle means is funny too, if you've ever drained anything it's pretty easy to understand that it's either coming out full force, not coming out at all, or trickling. I let mine drain til the fluid stream is too weak to flow straight down and starts to go off to the side.

 

Agreed, the best advice comes from Youtube Certified Master Auto Technicians! Haha

 

its probably overkill but I do tow and off-road frequently and run 34” tires. Also plan to keep the truck forever. Figure I can swing $50/year to refresh the ATF.

 

Check out this video. It’s for a Tacoma sealed transmission but the procedure should be the same.


Shttps://youtu.be/ej_6BZpK3gg