What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Forgive my ignorance, but if I want to run TRD wheels on my tundra do I use lugcentric or hubcentric lugs? Will I need a hub ring? Thanks for any input! I'm still learning here...

 

Meet up with @2006Tundra and he set me up with his old window trim. No more clapped out Chrome.

 

Did a little more planning for whatever truck I buy. I'm bidding on a body on Tuesday, but more importantly I think I've come to some decisions for the motor. At a minimum, I will be putting H beam rods in this, and I might build the whole bottom end. The rods look too damn weak for me to just ignore them when I could spend $700 for some peace of mind. Instead of the 8, 250cc injectors and the auxiliary 650cc, I will be putting 440cc RX8 injectors in it, with a 320lph AEM fuel pump instead of the Walbro 255 I have been running. I'm gonna buy ARP hardware for everything. Although I will not be putting the blower on immediately. I plan to run the truck na while I fab up an internal air-water intercooler, probably mimicking the LSA blower. Probably gonna have it sent off as well to be ported, rebuilt, and have the rotors thermal coated. Anyways, would you guys either spend $1700 to get rid of the main failure point, along with freshening the motor up, or spend $3700 and remove nearly all possibility for failure? Oh and for you VVTi guys, what's your experience with either bypassing or completely deleting the SAIS? If I can't get rid of it I'm gonna have to remote mount it because its too fat in the valley for the blower to fit.

 

@daveeasa as promised.

You can see the new door has the little spring steel clip that would grab a bar in the updated pocket the same way the lock would on the old one. Can also see my little stack of RE magnets on the mounting bolt that has been holding mine shut 2.5 years now.

 

I ended up going with one of these as a gift to mysef in December, which doesn't require pre-charge. It's a cap that leeches power off the dying battery.

I've had to use it twice now, once on a battery that registered 8v on initial hookup. It took about 4 mins for that battery on a Yaris, which was 4yo, to finally get up to 100% on the charge, but it was no fuss, no hassle, got to 100%, did its countdown, and when it got to zero, we turned the key and BAM! Fired right up. I love this thing so far. Smaller than jumper cables and doesn't require a 2nd party to work. A little spendy, but it's one of the best purchases I've made in a while.

 

Thats good to know as i bought one a couple years ago but havent had to use it yet. I like that it uses your own dying battery to work.

 

Wow - the wood paneling Tundra was a very rare option.
Nicely done, no sign anyone was doing anything there.

 

As happens in the north - these p.s. lines rust & leak. Which is more valuable to you right now - time or money?
Once you have 1 leak you will soon have more leaks, you will be chasing weakest link (rustiest section).
I just had it done. Got the Toyota kit, replaced it all. Saw what came out - so much worse than it looked from above.
There is also a line on top of the rack that is just as rusty. It IS available as it's own line - they will try to sell you the whole rack, you can get just the line.
My vote is just replace them all. In north country, anything else is just dragging out the inevitable.
...with Toyota parts that fit right & we know will last another 20 years.

 

You will need lug centric lugs. No hub ring needed.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

Found a headlight relay kit in my parts bin that I forgot about. Installed that this morning. Cant tell any difference from photos, nor in person.
Before relay


After

And I need to work on cable management. Here is my battery, lol

 

Gave the Wildpeak at3’s another good test in the new dusting and ice this morning. Very impressed! Seems odd, not a lot of people on the roads today.

 

Awesome!
Do you have the entire back seat out or just folded down?

 

Still have that 8" Pioneer sub? I have the same one in my truck. Curious to hear your thoughts.

 

It’s completely out and I built a platform that I used for the fridge but just for the dogs now.

Sure do. It’s alright for the price and space available. I just wanted some slight bass and it gives enough. Still kickin after 4 years so I’m happy.

 

Looks like a fun time, and thats good to know how well the tires did! Those dogs look happy and worn out too

 

happy bday ghostly! What happened to the SC tundra? Did i miss story time somewhere?

 

Thanks man. I took a corner and hit something at the wrong angle. Only enough damage to crunch my fender but it tore up my front crossmember.

figured it was just the tie rod end at first so I took the effort to source a fender. As yall can see, didn't even bend my door or the bumper, but the steering rack mounts ripped from the frame. It's fine though, I'll make this motor live again in a 2nd gen body. Gonna aim for 600+whp. Main issue that I have right now is that the truck I'm bidding for on tuesday is red, but I'll have to deal with it lol.

 

Supercharged engine outlasting the chassis, gotta admit i didnt see that coming.

 

OH DAAAANG!!!

 

Did truck stuff today. 1500 lbs so I may have been at max payload w two of us and the shell and winch on top. Here is a halfway loaded photo. Stuffed as much as i possibly could.

 

Yeah to most I'm sure that just looks like a regular bedside. To me just a relief to finally have it look like it should.

 

So I have repaired my front grill and put new headlights on the old girl. With 355,xxx miles and counting she still runs good. Next is a new stereo and wheels and tires

 

Fog lights?

 

Fog lights are next

 

The nuts fit fine even though they are quite a bit shorter than the originals. That quoted part # is the same as what I purchased. I also added a set of black OEM wheel locks for another $40 (PT276-35200-02).

 

I used the Surong line about a year ago and it's been fine.

 

This is one of the two, maybe three guys on here who weren't so lucky w/Surong. https://www.tundras.com/posts/2562391

I'll be interested to see how @Jake92 pans out with his.

 

Ordered Value Cover Gaskets and Bolts - 2006 Double Cab 4.7 2UZ

Part Numbers ordered/Used below

90080-10330 - 18 QTY
$ 1.27 VALVE COVER BOLTS (FOR CYLINDER HEAD COVER)

11214-0F010 - 1 QTY
$ 20.47 Engine Valve Cover Gasket

11213-0F010 - 1 QTY
$ 20.47 Engine Valve Cover Gasket

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 - 1 QTY
$ 14.65 Toyota Formed-in-Place Gaskets-Oil Pan

11193-50010 - 8 QTY
$ 3.06 GASKET SPARK PLUG TUBE; SPARK PLUG TUBE, LEFT.

 

When you get to the job, zip ties are your friend. Look for things you can zip-tie up and out of the way (fuel lines, PS hoses), and know there are some things (like PS res) you can unbolt to move out of the way. Hardest part of the job for me was - other than cleanup of the covers - Removing the spark plug gaskets. I have pics of my frustration on that if you want.

Driver's side is the worst as far as obstacles go. Trying to shift the valve cover into place w/o the gasket falling off, and squarely so you don't smear the FIPG in the corners, with all the crap in the way ... harder than it sounds.

You'll see what I mean...