What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Do you have a sunroof? If so, your drain hole(s) are probably clogged up. When they clog, the water pools up and will run into the headliner resulting in it running through the roof area and exiting in the overhead center consoles and at the grab handles. To fix, there are 4 small holes in each of the sunroof's corners... If you open the sunroof up and look to the corners you should be able to find them. Take a long piece of weed trimmer cord and feed it through each of the openings and down into the fender areas (several feet of cord). The water drains just rear of the front tires and forward of the rear ones. Once you've cleared them (the holes out) w/the trimmer cord verify they are draining properly by pouring a small amount of water into the sunroof channel near the holes and you should see the water the running freely out of the body panels and onto the ground.

If you don't have a sunroof, I have no idea...

 

See this... you've been cheating on us with Instagram? Naughty Naughty...

40 lashings for you.

 

Nope. No sunroof.

 

I've had leaks. If it were dripping onto the back of your fusebox, that would be at the cowl/bottom corner of windshield. The spot above that which is likely your culprit, is the conjuncture where the roof rail seals 'T' into the windshield seal. Roof rail seals are the rubber strips embedded in the roof that run from the windshield to the back glass. The problem is that the ends of that seal, tuck under/into the windshield seal, and rely on some type of sealant applied in manufacturing, that will eventually fail. The bad news (especially in your case) is that the water intrusion you see, is rust-rotting out the body under the seal, which you can not see. In my case, the rust had caused swelling of the underlying steel, specifically the windshield flange, putting pressure against the edge of the glass, until ultimately it sent a crack down and across my windshield. Of course removing the windshield isn't practical, so pulling up the other seal would be the best way to put your eyes on it. I warn you, there are metal pieces in the ends and I don't think it's possible to remove the strips without destroying them, the ends anyways. I tried and failed. I still need to replace them and they're about $150 for the pair

 

If you're desperate to stop the water from coming in, you could smear sealant around the area where the seals come together, but thats an unattractive and short term fix that won't address the rust issue

 

Cleared my TPMS light!
TPMS - Over the last 6-7 years, I've actually bought 2 sets of Denso TPMS. America's Tire (Discount Tire to most of you) has been unable to get my 2006 Tundra to recognize them. America's Tire and a couple of other places have told me I need to go to Toyota. I recently went by my local Stealership and asked, they quoted 2 hours at $190.00/ea to program my TPMS. I purchased an Autel MaxiTPMS

$219 TS501 PRO TPMS Programming Tool, Same as TS508, 2025 TPMS Relearn Tool Newer of TS501 TS408S, Activate Relearn 99% Sensors, Program Autel MX-Sensors [315/433MHz], TPMS Reset/Diagnosis

TS501 from Amazon for $199. It took about 20 min to register and update the tool, then took about 15 minutes to read my TPMS and program them to my OBDII. No more light! Worked great and very easy.

 

I remember some people have had the 3rd brake light leak. It gets into the headliner and whe braking, it comes out the A-piller, sun visor or roof console. Good Luck!

 

Ha, I think it was partially as @RUSTYNUTS said, and also a throwback to the early days of another MC forum I was active on in the 2000s. It was an all-purpose salute in that community!

Honestly, IG is so much easier to keep up with. I love this forum and [most of] you guys, but every time I log in I get overwhelmed with 500 pages of this thread, not to mention all the other threads! I can't even begin to crack into the Lunch Table Discussion

 

Yep. I'll have another one soon when we do my lower control arms.

@Tundra2 's manly hand



RAV4 shocks

 

Amazing how the chain store couldn't make it happen. It's not f'ing rocket science as long as you have the hex IDs off the sensors and properly clear out the old sensors. If you don't have their IDs, I'm not sure how you handle it, though I've seen people mention "sniffers" you can buy to pick up on anything transmitting from your tire. That's a rabbithole I haven't gone down, though. May need to in the near future.

 

Eff.

 

Looks like we have the new Toyota call sign. I'll be sure to use it when I see a fellow Tundra owner passing me on the road.

 

If i dont stumble across the lexus badges, i might turn my emblem hole into a light hole.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-76#post-3050052

 

FTFY

 

Have a couple and before and during truck updates. Installed freedom off-road adjustable coilovers in the front and rear shocks. Truck sits almost perfectly level now after adjusting the coilovers a bit. They ride great.

Grinded down all of the bad paint, rust, dents and scratches. Stripped off all of the bed liner from my shell. Pulled dents with sheet metal screws. Smoothed my lines and dents as best I could with bondo. And picked up a set of five new wheels and tires off of a 2022 Ford bronco big bend for 500 bucks. Bridgestone dueler a/t 255/75/17. I'm going to take off all of the badges and paint them black and finish sanding down the truck. Then I'm going to take it to maaco for the single stage urethane with integrated clear. Going to change the color to silver and get the shell to match. I'm pretty pumped to get it done! Not too concerned about the maaco paint job. I am pretty rough on the truck so I'm afraid to spend more than 1k on paint that I'm sure I will scratch up again in the near future

Do you guys thing the wheels and tires will work.l? Slightly taller than my 265/7516s. Wheels are the same bolt pattern but not sure on the offset. Going to try them but figured if they didn't work I could resell them for more. Good deal.

 

Hub bore looks a little small.

 

I second this. May have to run a adaptor spacer if you can find one. Also need to be sure lug hole size is for m12 not m14.

 

PHM?

 

What kind of adaptor spacer would I need?

 

Most toyotas use a 106mm hub bore, and i guess broncos use a 93mm hub bore.



fun fact, bronco raptors use f150 hubs because ?83mm?

 

Would a 1 inch will spacer with new lugs on it solve my issue?

 

if you use bronco spacers, you'd have to hog out the back side to fit the toyota hub boss.

Not sure i'd trust lug centric spacers.

 

You’d have to use a Toyota adapter (spacer) that was hubcentric on the back side only, matching the Toyota bore size. Lug centric on the face to match the stud size and spacing of the Bronco rims. Someone here recently went through this with Gen 3 6 lug wheels and spent way more than they thought they would and weren’t 100% happy it sounded like.

 

I think there are companies that will custom make spacers but really at this point it would be worth finding better wheels

 

May I join in?

Got my electric fans put in. My truck is now actually capable of reaching operating temp in the winter. Thing sits pretty consistently at 169, give or take 2-3 degrees. But oh man, there is so much space to work on it now. Gone are the days of me destroying my hands to swap the serp belt.

 

Yeah he spent around $500 for them.

Thread Link

 

Swapped out my 3rd member. From open diff with 3.91’s to locker with 4.88’s. Quite a difference I notice immediately. Can’t wait to rip it up on dry pavement, and the locker on dirt.
@assassin10000 i know this will probably sound silly but there’s no need to break in used gears correct? (YOUR gears as they were)