What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Put on some new shoes

 

Had to replace the bulbs so ended getting new led license plate light instead fit is off a bit

 

Tell me about the cap rack outriggers? Those look useful.

Nicely done.

 

Outriggers? Mean the molle panels on the side of the camper shell?

 

The master switch replaces the factory part. Nothing else needed but the switch.

 

Yeah. Who makes em? Haven't seen those before.

 

Washed up and waiting for the awning Loving the new powerstop brakes and rotors.

 

I like mine a lot too. They have converted me from parts store brake components.

Sounds lame, but they are amazing on the family Sienna.

 

they’re the rago fabrication side molle panels for a 5th gen 4Runner. Modified the suction mounts to fit the angle of camper shell

 

Reinstalled the driveshaft after coming back from the shop a second time.
I can tell they balanced it this time...

 

Added a oil catch can to the 3URFE + new radiator

 

Here’s a hint:

 

I've never seen this before. I googled it so I now know what it does, but why did you want it?

 

Radiator I can understand to upgrade the OEM, but a catch can is usually only necessary for forced induction applications.

 

I had to add engine oil once in a while and after my engine rebuild, there are no leaks or parts left wich can cause that, so I decided to catch the oil fumes from the PCV valve before sending it into the intake and it looks good I think

 

Nothing done TO the Tundra, but mostly FOR and designed around Betty:

Finally pieced together my manifold, hose sections and air chucks for my 4 way, tire inflation/deflation, and balancing kit.



Goes along with the Ironman 4x4 12v air supply Santa got me while they were on sale. Allegedly they work quite well for inflating 4 large AT tires, so I hope it is more than sufficient for our ~33's



Everything still fits nicely into the provided carrying bag. Little dude helped with the assembly process. Smooth as Eggs.

 

Picked up a used shell, cap, topper....

 

My slow puncture turned into a not so slow puncture on the way to work yesterday morning but this is not about the puncture. Thanks to a bust TPMS sensor I don't get a dash notification that I've got a soggy tire, but this is not about TPMS sensors...
No, this is about traction control.
So, about ten milers from the jobsite I sling her around a corner in the usual fashion and traction control engages, dear God I've never felt so out of control. One of my first ever vehicles was a rear wheel drive car, with zero interfering gadgets, that was renowned for letting go on corners, so I got used to sliding rear wheel drives around corners, it is definitely more 'interesting' than slinging a front wheel drive round a bend!!!

So, for the first time in my life I manage to engage the 'help' of traction control, on a bend at the least convenient moment and as I'm sure most of you are aware, it seems the only reason the US has roads with sharp bends is to hug the sides of very steep hills. Long story short, I thought my front end was headed off the road and onto a very steep drop! Can't say that I'm a fan of traction control...although I didn't end up inspecting a woodland and the bottom of a river so there is that....

 

Traction and stability control systems rely heavily on all four tires having the same circumference. If one of your tires is lower than the others, the systems will not work to the best of their abilities.

I am very happy to hear that you and your truck were not damaged.

Of all our vehicles, the one that is rwd only, and has zero traction or stability control, is by FAR the easiest to control in a slide... Almost like they are trying to cover up poor vehicle dynamics with fancy computer systems these days.

 

They're trying to cover the asses of people that don't know how to regain control of their vehicle...

 

Got my switches in today and installed the drivers side in about 5 min!

everything seems to work great.

@CMikeB, what question did you have?

 

This switch makes all four windows power one touch up/down? If so, I'm in. How was the wiring?

 

Correct. I only bought the drivers door master switch. My passengers can hold the switch up or down. Cost of riding in my truck!

there is no wiring needed. Simply pop the switch cover off the door, remove the connector with the harness, and unscrew the factory switch from panel. Then install new switch, plug in harness, and place back on door.

 

I have a Auto-Loc module still connected to the driver's side glass. Unhooking it only took driver's side power away, so I re- connected it. I was wondering if your new switch lights up with the ignition or park lights and how the new switch LED's compare to the brightness of the other switch lights on the dash. If I have to 'get back into' the door panel and re-splice everything I will but only if it'll make a difference. Thanks for any help! Mike

 

I tried all light combinations, off, parking, on, and auto and they seem to be on all the time.

as for brightness, I feel like they aren’t as bright as the dash lights, but that could be true for the original where only my drivers window switch was auto and ligted. The image below makes them look just as bright as the dash.


Hope this answers your questions and thanks for mentioning these switches!

 

Will this switch will make all the windows one push up/down from the driver's switch?

 

Correct

 

Yes Sir, I'm thinking I'll leave well enough alone. The new switches are lit, it isn't like I'm having to 'gaze' down at them when they're needed. I've had the truck for 12 years, if I can't find them by now, I have more important issues that need attention! Thanks for your help!

 

She turned 10, so I did a coolant drain/fill. I used Aisin pink coolant for Toyota as I figured that was a safe bet for $13 on rockauto. I didn't see a color difference between old and new. I also am inclined to think Aisin sources it's coolant from the same place as Toyota.

I read somewhere on here that you can skip the block drains if you drain at the oil filter/cooler. This is not correct. I did the block drains last, after the oil cooler, and got more than a gallon from them combined.

I also used compressed air on the heater hoses one at a time, to try and force the coolant out and into the main system to be drained.

It took 3.5 gallons and I believe I still have some air trapped. I took it for a drive and it blew cold air for a couple miles, even though the temp gauge was reading normal. Finally, after a loud gurgle from the passenger side, I started getting warm air. I think I'll be good after a few heat cycles and top offs.

 

Bought some paracord to wrap around the oh shit handles. Anyone know of a good link on best way to wrap and tie them up?