DIY: Automatic Traction Control Disabler

Thanks Jake. I must of missed the email notification, as I'm just seeing your response too.

Do you know if the factory momentary switch is "normally closed" or "normally open?" I'm searching for aftermarket, just in case I've a bad switch, as Toyota Parts wants $88 for a OEM replacement.

Plans are to remove my switch panel one more (I hope) time next week. I guess I can test then if normally open or closed. I've had the dash apart several times now, but never on the driver's side. I got the truck from my Dad, and I'm positive he never messed with anything. If he had any issues, it went to the dealer. Besides oil changes and tire rotations, they did work on it for the turn signal recall, and until recently I didn't know what exactly that was. That's why when I had the passenger side dash apart the first time, and saw aftermarket wiring, I figured such was part of the recall remediation. How else that wiring got there I've not a clue. It's two 20 or 18 ga wires, run parallel, and spliced with spade connectors every few feet, like whomever did it didn't have a spool but only short pieces with which to do the job. I couldn't tell exactly where they come from nor go to, but they run from the dash to under the passenger kick panel. I spent last weekend with my dad, and he said he didn't do it.

I'll check fuses. Thanks! Everything else seems to be working though. Could the VSC be on a fuse by itself?

When I last had the dash apart, I wanted to move factory switches and USB ports around to different locations, but found that one cable wasn't long enough. Said cable is part of a factory harness bundle, of which the VSC switch wiring is also a part. I cut loose a factory anchor point for this bundle and pulled on it trying to get that one cable to reach. It didn't work, but in the process I could have either cut/nicked the VSC wiring or pulled it loose from a connector of its other end. If I did either, then to repair my stupid I'll have no choice but to open up the driver's side dash, for the first time, too.

Once I get my VSC Off working again, I'll be on to doing your DIY. Thanks for your help!

 

pretty much all momentary switches I can think of are normally open - at least in the truck wiring diagrams.
Full wiring diagram for the VSC system attached.

 

Thanks, Casey! That helps. Funny, all the aftermarket switches I've found thus far are listed as normally closed. Go figure.

If I'm interpreting the wiring diagram correctly, the Steering (Wheel?) Angle Sensor is on the same 5 amp fuse as the Skid Control ECU and VSC Off switch.

 

Right? I don't mind most electrical work but in this case I'd prefer to buy something already set up for my 2016, just need though!

 

Yes. And likely a lot of other systems as well - that fuse is the ignition power for a lot of different smaller ECUs

my experience with both AOB and CH4x4 momentary switches is that they are normally open like the factory ones

 

I'll double check my fuses, but all other systems are working fine, AFAIK. We just returned from an 1800 mile round trip without issues.

I don't know what AOB is, but I could not find anything in the CH4x4 listings for momentary switches that specified normally closed or open. I'll call them before I order, anyway. The 1.28" x 0.87" ones on Amazon are all listed as normally closed.

 

CH4x4 can do custom momentary switches:
CH4x4 Custom Laser-Etched Small Push Switches for Toyota

or they have a few pre-made ones
Momentary Series Archives - CH4X4 Industries

They also have a dual-momentary (two separate switches, one blank)
CH4X4 Custom Laser-Etched Small Dual Push Switches for Toyota

AOB = Air on Board
their site is being a bit goofy for me right now, but it is located here:
AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Search results for: 'Toyota Tundra switch'

They are the only one that has a "light blue" color that comes very close to matching the factory blue, but they do not offer customization.

Those are the only two sites I've bought switches from.

 

AOB, got it. I appreciate that. "Goofy" describes what I wasn't finding on their Website right now well.

 

I got my switch bench assembled and tested today. Hopefully I’ll be able to install it this week. Thanks so much, OP!!!

For anyone interested or intimidated with the wiring/programming of the original setup, I found this relay/timer combo on Amazon. It ended up being quite a bit cheaper and easier for me to wire and program:

https://amzn.to/3XxSrlK

 

That timer is pretty slick. I still like the form factor of the small one for this application, but the one you linked is much more DIY friendly. Thanks for posting!

 

It’s actually about the same size as a standard relay. I was able to replace the timer and relay with this one timer/relay combo. With the simplified wiring, it likely takes up less space.

I can’t argue in any way that it will be as reliable as your original setup though. It bench tested perfect over and over, but I still need to install it and see it working. We’ll see. Thanks again for posting this!

 

Dammit - I guess I need to actually move forward with doing this one.
Just ordered the timer and programming board off the Bezos-web. Also ordered the male and female connectors needed to make a break-out harness for the VSC switch instead of tapping the existing wires (I'm funny that way).
For those interested, this should be the male and female connector you need (minimum order of 5 sets) to make a break-out harness at the VSC switch. Once I get them, I may consider putting together a few of these if I ever have some spare time.
Sumitomo TS series 10 Pin Female Male Unsealed Automotive Electric Wiring Harness Connector With Terminal 6098 3909 6098 3869|Cables, Adapters & Sockets| - AliExpress

 

Has anyone done this yet? Love the idea of it! I didn’t realize that the male female connectors for a VSC harness could be so easily sourced. That’s truly plug and play.

 

I need to order these, redo mine, and make a few sets for others. I guess I should just ping you whenever I'm looking for a Toyota connector, lol.

 

That’s my goal

I’ll hook you up when I get the ones I ordered…

 

Hi New Member, and new (used) Tundra owner here. I absolutely love my Tundra, but the VSC is driving me crazy. Is anyone selling these yet? I would buy one tomorrow.

 

HEADS UP!!
There is a newer version of this timer now, v8, and it requires an external programmer to set it up. I have a v8 timer and am waiting to get my hands on the programmer so that I can update the writeup.

 

Motherfcker
I was just about to start making the break-out harness and build mine.
I've also been looking at true "relay" versions/switches to simplify it, but haven't seen one that is any smaller than a micro relay and this little timer.

 

The same company makes a sink module that should work for this - it’s slightly smaller than a micro relay but doesn’t really help much on price. I’m thinking about picking one up to see if it’ll indeed work the way I want.
https://timers.shop/Sink-Adapter--Positive-To-Sink_p_32.html

Should work with orange hooked to yellow from the timer, yellow to the VSC wire, and black to ground. No 12v needed.

 

Their Amazon answers say something about programming ground output with the WiFi programmer, but I'm not feeling warm and fuzzy that the Chinglish translator got the question right...

 

I'm going to borrow the programmer from @BiggHertz and see what it does on the bench tester. That’d be amazing to dump the external relay.

 

This one has Sink Output
Buy Multi Functional Timers online | Timers.shop
Timers Compare

 

Oh no shit… well damn. This project got easier lol. I’ll still check out the v8 5amp I’ve got.

 

$10 shipping on that damn thing...wonder if I should buy a couple. I've got a pile of these breakout connectors here to avoid splicing the wires on the factory switch.

 

Fuqit. Just ordered three of them.

 

Finished messing with the v8 timer - once you figure out a view of the gotchas with the programming software, it's not bad at all.

First step, connect the 3 wires from the programmer to the corresponding wires on the timer:


Connect it to a USB power source (also flip the switch on the module with the power out wires, if not already forward) and wait for the blue and red lights to light up. Now you can connect to the programmer via Wifi (something like Timers.shop.wifixxx). This part can be tricky, depending on the device used, so make sure you disable auto-join for other home networks temporarily while you're doing this process.

Once connected, open a web browser and go to http://192.168.4.1


For this use case, we need to select a different function than what comes in the default config. Select "Select Function" and pick T_H1_F18_V1.1 (versions could change, F18 is the important part):


Once the function has been successfully updated, go back to the main page and select "Timer's Configuration". Two sections will be updated, the Time Sequence and Trg Blue. The Time Sequence is as follows: 4.0,1.0,4.0,0.1 Change the Trg Blue value to 1:


Save the configuration, and once completed you can remove the programming leads and bench test as outlined in the rest of the guide.
https://youtu.be/GEgF4BDsZ7U

 

No sink output on the 5A one btw. I think the reviewer on Amazon was talking about "reverse output" that would make the output always active except when the timer is active. Keep us posted on the 10A version when you get it.

 

Why cant i just get a plug and play unit????

 

Same question; only for my 2010!

 

We get this shit all figured out and put a bow on it, maybe…