1st gen standard cab door latch question

Good morning everyone,

My door latch started sticking on my driver side, making it almost impossible to open the door without ripping the handle off. I'd like to replace it with a fresh one, but I just wanted to confirm a part number before ordering. It seems as though every latch available is specified to fit a sequoia or double cab tundra with power options. I have a 2005 standard cab tundra with rollup windows and no power locks. I was wondering if all door latches were the same for 1st gens, or if there is a specific part number that would fit the base model truck. I will include an ebay link to the part (PT#69304-0C010) I'm looking at, and some pics of the truck and the latch. Thanks for reading

- Brett

Part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-07-SEQU...CH-LOCK-69304-0C010-GENUINE-OEM-/333862810339

 

I dont think latches are all the same. When grandpa needed a new latch for his AC truck, i found a DC latch at a junkyard, and the shop said they couldnt use it, but didnt tell me why.

maybe it was a connector difference, i dont know.

 

Looks pretty gummed up, it it sticking because of all the gunk?

EDIT: Updated the links here because Toyota changed their entire parts system.

Anyway, here's the Toyota exploded for your door parts: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/vck30/3828/body/6753/

Clearly there is only one part number for your door on each side, one for power locks and one for non- power locks (see descrption for left/driver side here, bottom p/n is for your base-level truck) and it doesn't match what's on eBay:

693200c010 is the part number you want. https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/regulator-assy-fr-d-698200c010

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And here is why it's different - As you see here, the part number you provided from fleaBay is for Double Cab trucks and Sequoias, which share a lot of the same parts with each other, they're the same vehicle with a bed. Access Cab and Regular cab share parts with each other too, but not a lot translates between Seq/DC and the AC/RC. As @Mr.bee already indicated... (And this may answer your question @Mr.bee)

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Last point: DO NOT recommend buying parts on scAmazon, and only buy on fleaBay if it's a trusted dealership that's selling! Tons of very-convincing counterfeits on both sites.

You can order your parts online for in-dealership pickup at a nice, hefty discount - more info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

 

Thank you @shifty` ! Called the dealer to confirm fitment and ordered the latch at a 30% discount. You are a lifesaver

 

Post how the repair goes if you can, I'm interested. Mine just started doing the same thing 2 days ago. My latch seems fine, but maybe not. I'll be very interested in how yours goes. I don't want to get in the truck from the passenger side and I'm afraid I will have to soon.

 

@chunk I finished the repair today. I had been getting in VIA the passenger side for weeks and finally got sick of it. Repair was actually pretty easy, I just followed along with this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dDakuQD_yc

 

Awesome, OEM part was a match? Sometimes picking the right one gets squirrely with parts that aren't uniform across all cabs. Twice now I've given the correct part number, and the stealership parts guy argued with me and said it was a different part, and I was actually correct. Easy refund, but cost me a few days.

 

@shifty` Yes it was a perfect fit. Definitely going to use the online Toyota parts service for all future purchases.

 

Looks like RC has with power and without on D side but passenger side only has one part number? I guess (after watching the video) that you have to transfer your electronics over as indicated, hence only one part number needed/available. Which makes me wonder if you can maybe use the non-power part for the D side but I'm guessing maybe the mechanicals are different.

 

I am currently having the same problem with the same truck. This part is getting difficult to find. Can anyone suggest a reputable place to find this part?

 

Have you tried simply cleaning the latch? Many members, using a solvent/light oil to de-gummify the latch of its old ass grease, have had good luck.

To confirm, since you gave no info, you're also driving a 2005 regular cab Tundra with non-power windows, and non-power locks? The part varies depending on cab type and whether you have/don't have power windows+locks if memory serves.

The only place "reputable" place to get Toyota parts is direct from Toyota, since fleaBay and scAmazon are flooded with counterfeits/grey market parts. https://autoparts.toyota.com

This thread covers how to look up your part numbers in the first couple bullet points: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

Hell, you may be able to buy @flodahjit 's old latch assembly, run it thru a parts washer, and re-grease it if you have the exact same 2005 base model AC/RC truck.

 

Yes, I have a 2006 Base long bed, 4L 6cyl, auto trans, non-power window/door lock. The part has been discontinued by toyota. Thanks.

 

Clean out your old latch with light oil. Even if that means removing it to clean it well.

You're going to have problems with aftermarket on this part... I may trust Dorman, but there aren't many others I'd trust.

 

Ok, Thanks.

 

But quick question for you, where'd you get the idea the part was discontinued?

Toyota changed their parts website after I made reply #3 above with the part number, but the part is totally still available, here's the updated link for the left-hand (driver) side latch I linked up there: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/regulator-assy-fr-d-698200c010

I cannot guarantee this part fits your truck, but ... it's not discontinued from what I can tell.

 

693200c010 is the part number I am trying to locate. On the various websites I cannot find it. Toyota parts counter also told me it has been dicontinued. Thanks.

 

Try the pb blaster trick. Let it air out. @ shifty recomended, i was having issues with pass door closing w reasonable effort. Would always have to pull it shut hard. This was on older 02 though. If it looks like old grey/black wheel bearing grease, maybe try ckeaning first?

 

I'll try cleaning...so far I've only used lots of WD40 to clean it out. Door shuts ok, just very hard to open. Thanks.

 

Add another vote to the cleaning/lubing recommendation. Particularly the lube.

I had a door that had to be nearly slammed to latch closed. Lithium grease on the latch and now it closes 90% normal. I did order a new latch online from Ourisman Toyota just last week. Mine was for a DC

 

Double cab latches are everywhere. Very easy to find. I'll try the cleaning. Thanks

 

Anyone know what is the best lubricant for these latches?

 

I used pb the graphite lube gel. 3m. Just s smidge. I think a good lithium grease would work as well.

 

Does anyone know if the power door lock actuator (690400c010) will work in place of a non-power door lock actuator (693200c010)? The power actuator is commonly available while the nonpower actuator is not avilable anywhere. I dont want power door locks. I just want to find a door lock actuator that fits and works (non power). In other words, can I substitute the power door lock actuator for the non power door lock actuator?

 

The handle assembly, from pictures I've seen in the past, I swear it was physically different. I think I looked up all the part numbers for another member on here who ended up being a fly-by-night poster, just here to snatch info and run.

(But I have no fucking clue what year your truck is so it's extremely difficult to confirm definitively - can you please update your "Vehicle One-Line Description" in your profile to give us a year and cab type, and include V6/V8 and 2WD/4WD too so people can help you?)

If that's true, to use power door locks in your truck, you will, at minimum, likely need to get new door harnesses which include the wires for the lock controls, get the lock controls, and get the lock assembly.

Replacing the door harness is extremely easy, tedious, but very easy. You should be able to retrofit pretty easy. Someone else on here has already done it, using factory options here, and another with aftermarket options here, so ... its been done.

The threads are here, you just gotta use Search.

 

No reason I can think of why power locks without a harness would be any different than non powered locks behavior-wise.

It is nice to have power locks. Some day I need to do my ‘05 up all nice with that.

 

To be fair, my aftermarket option is only keyless entry and not full fledge power locks. Both doors are still independent of one another and can only be simultaneously electronically locked and unlocked with the key fob.

 

IMMHO yes....the door striker on each are held on with same 3 torx screws at same location, the 2 open/close cables attach to same inside door handle and the 2 rods going up to outside handle hook up in same location.

 

That's the image I had seared into my brain but couldn't find. I was having issues in the EPC because they kept showing the same part# for power/non-power, despite the diagrams showing clearly different base. Which was confusing as hell.